Raybestos Advanced Technology Rotors
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I just ordered 4 corners of this for a lexus la sedan. they seem fine and completely normal after the install previous rotors were centric premiums and those were fine too.
one thing I do if I'm buying for a full brake job is also replace the hardware (clips). usually this is just an extra $10 or less part but can prevent weird behavior.
if you're replacing rotors should replace pads as well to make sure you squash the problem completely.
The only comment from the mechanic is they came oiled for shipping protection. and although they used brake cleaner they might not have gotten all of it. take easy for first couple runs and/or don't be surprised if there is a little smell or smoke from the packing grease burning off.
one thing I do if I'm buying for a full brake job is also replace the hardware (clips). usually this is just an extra $10 or less part but can prevent weird behavior.
if you're replacing rotors should replace pads as well to make sure you squash the problem completely.
The only comment from the mechanic is they came oiled for shipping protection. and although they used brake cleaner they might not have gotten all of it. take easy for first couple runs and/or don't be surprised if there is a little smell or smoke from the packing grease burning off.
Last edited:
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Originally Posted By: mclasser
The front rotors on my Pilot pulsate like crazy (common issue). Raybestos Advanced Tech rotors are supposedly heavy duty and a step up from OEM. Anyone have experience with them?
You need to find a shop that has an on-car brake lathe, like this:
http://www.procutusa.com/
http://www.procutusa.com/pdf/BrakeSaver_Brochure_2015.pdf
Your brake pads will last twice as long; and NOT "pulsate."
The front rotors on my Pilot pulsate like crazy (common issue). Raybestos Advanced Tech rotors are supposedly heavy duty and a step up from OEM. Anyone have experience with them?
You need to find a shop that has an on-car brake lathe, like this:
http://www.procutusa.com/
http://www.procutusa.com/pdf/BrakeSaver_Brochure_2015.pdf
Your brake pads will last twice as long; and NOT "pulsate."
Originally Posted By: mclasser
The front rotors on my Pilot pulsate like crazy (common issue). Raybestos Advanced Tech rotors are supposedly heavy duty and a step up from OEM. Anyone have experience with them?
Are they actually warped or are they corroded?
Honda states warped rotors are caused by improper wheel nut torque. Are the wheels always hand torqued to final spec?
The front rotors on my Pilot pulsate like crazy (common issue). Raybestos Advanced Tech rotors are supposedly heavy duty and a step up from OEM. Anyone have experience with them?
Are they actually warped or are they corroded?
Honda states warped rotors are caused by improper wheel nut torque. Are the wheels always hand torqued to final spec?
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Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
Originally Posted By: mclasser
The front rotors on my Pilot pulsate like crazy (common issue). Raybestos Advanced Tech rotors are supposedly heavy duty and a step up from OEM. Anyone have experience with them?
You need to find a shop that has an on-car brake lathe, like this:
http://www.procutusa.com/
http://www.procutusa.com/pdf/BrakeSaver_Brochure_2015.pdf
Your brake pads will last twice as long; and NOT "pulsate."
All Honda dealers are required to have a Procut on car lathe.
Originally Posted By: mclasser
The front rotors on my Pilot pulsate like crazy (common issue). Raybestos Advanced Tech rotors are supposedly heavy duty and a step up from OEM. Anyone have experience with them?
You need to find a shop that has an on-car brake lathe, like this:
http://www.procutusa.com/
http://www.procutusa.com/pdf/BrakeSaver_Brochure_2015.pdf
Your brake pads will last twice as long; and NOT "pulsate."
All Honda dealers are required to have a Procut on car lathe.
A large part of good rotors is sufficient mass. If you can compare rotors in the shop, take home the heaviest the store has.
Unless you are setting up a race car, light rotors are not your friend for long term usage. But then, if you are setting up a race car, you are not looking for long term usage.
Unless you are setting up a race car, light rotors are not your friend for long term usage. But then, if you are setting up a race car, you are not looking for long term usage.
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
Originally Posted By: mclasser
The front rotors on my Pilot pulsate like crazy (common issue). Raybestos Advanced Tech rotors are supposedly heavy duty and a step up from OEM. Anyone have experience with them?
You need to find a shop that has an on-car brake lathe, like this:
http://www.procutusa.com/
http://www.procutusa.com/pdf/BrakeSaver_Brochure_2015.pdf
Your brake pads will last twice as long; and NOT "pulsate."
Or you just buy the new rotors that will cost the same as getting your rotors cut. Unless you have something exotic, most passenger car rotors such as this one that has a Raybestos AT offering is going to be cheap enough to be disposable.
I think I read and it was measured that a factory mill balancing on a good higher quality rotor (as is the raybestos) is going to have a much higher tolerance than even the best shop cut rotor in a field. Even the best shop lathe is still a "field service" and no match for a factory mill.
Originally Posted By: mclasser
The front rotors on my Pilot pulsate like crazy (common issue). Raybestos Advanced Tech rotors are supposedly heavy duty and a step up from OEM. Anyone have experience with them?
You need to find a shop that has an on-car brake lathe, like this:
http://www.procutusa.com/
http://www.procutusa.com/pdf/BrakeSaver_Brochure_2015.pdf
Your brake pads will last twice as long; and NOT "pulsate."
Or you just buy the new rotors that will cost the same as getting your rotors cut. Unless you have something exotic, most passenger car rotors such as this one that has a Raybestos AT offering is going to be cheap enough to be disposable.
I think I read and it was measured that a factory mill balancing on a good higher quality rotor (as is the raybestos) is going to have a much higher tolerance than even the best shop cut rotor in a field. Even the best shop lathe is still a "field service" and no match for a factory mill.
Last edited:
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- Oct 28, 2014
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Originally Posted By: raytseng
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
Originally Posted By: mclasser
The front rotors on my Pilot pulsate like crazy (common issue). Raybestos Advanced Tech rotors are supposedly heavy duty and a step up from OEM. Anyone have experience with them?
You need to find a shop that has an on-car brake lathe, like this:
http://www.procutusa.com/
http://www.procutusa.com/pdf/BrakeSaver_Brochure_2015.pdf
Your brake pads will last twice as long; and NOT "pulsate."
Or you just buy the new rotors that will cost the same as getting your rotors cut. Unless you have something exotic, most passenger car rotors such as this one that has a Raybestos AT offering is going to be cheap enough to be disposable.
I think I read and it was measured that a factory mill balancing on a good higher quality rotor (as is the raybestos) is going to have a much higher tolerance than even the best shop cut rotor in a field. Even the best shop lathe is still a "field service" and no match for a factory mill.
Perhaps you misunderstood or I wasn't clear enough. The correct answer is BOTH. New rotors AND a brake lathe.
"Pro-Cut’s Rotor Matching System has been the top choice of OEM’s for over two decades."
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
Originally Posted By: mclasser
The front rotors on my Pilot pulsate like crazy (common issue). Raybestos Advanced Tech rotors are supposedly heavy duty and a step up from OEM. Anyone have experience with them?
You need to find a shop that has an on-car brake lathe, like this:
http://www.procutusa.com/
http://www.procutusa.com/pdf/BrakeSaver_Brochure_2015.pdf
Your brake pads will last twice as long; and NOT "pulsate."
Or you just buy the new rotors that will cost the same as getting your rotors cut. Unless you have something exotic, most passenger car rotors such as this one that has a Raybestos AT offering is going to be cheap enough to be disposable.
I think I read and it was measured that a factory mill balancing on a good higher quality rotor (as is the raybestos) is going to have a much higher tolerance than even the best shop cut rotor in a field. Even the best shop lathe is still a "field service" and no match for a factory mill.
Perhaps you misunderstood or I wasn't clear enough. The correct answer is BOTH. New rotors AND a brake lathe.
"Pro-Cut’s Rotor Matching System has been the top choice of OEM’s for over two decades."
Originally Posted By: raytseng
I just ordered 4 corners of this for a lexus la sedan. they seem fine and completely normal after the install previous rotors were centric premiums and those were fine too.
one thing I do if I'm buying for a full brake job is also replace the hardware (clips). usually this is just an extra $10 or less part but can prevent weird behavior.
if you're replacing rotors should replace pads as well to make sure you squash the problem completely.
The only comment from the mechanic is they came oiled for shipping protection. and although they used brake cleaner they might not have gotten all of it. take easy for first couple runs and/or don't be surprised if there is a little smell or smoke from the packing grease burning off.
So true most people don't bother replacing the hardware but at under $20 why not.
I just ordered 4 corners of this for a lexus la sedan. they seem fine and completely normal after the install previous rotors were centric premiums and those were fine too.
one thing I do if I'm buying for a full brake job is also replace the hardware (clips). usually this is just an extra $10 or less part but can prevent weird behavior.
if you're replacing rotors should replace pads as well to make sure you squash the problem completely.
The only comment from the mechanic is they came oiled for shipping protection. and although they used brake cleaner they might not have gotten all of it. take easy for first couple runs and/or don't be surprised if there is a little smell or smoke from the packing grease burning off.
So true most people don't bother replacing the hardware but at under $20 why not.
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
Originally Posted By: raytseng
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
Originally Posted By: mclasser
The front rotors on my Pilot pulsate like crazy (common issue). Raybestos Advanced Tech rotors are supposedly heavy duty and a step up from OEM. Anyone have experience with them?
You need to find a shop that has an on-car brake lathe, like this:
http://www.procutusa.com/
http://www.procutusa.com/pdf/BrakeSaver_Brochure_2015.pdf
Your brake pads will last twice as long; and NOT "pulsate."
Or you just buy the new rotors that will cost the same as getting your rotors cut. Unless you have something exotic, most passenger car rotors such as this one that has a Raybestos AT offering is going to be cheap enough to be disposable.
I think I read and it was measured that a factory mill balancing on a good higher quality rotor (as is the raybestos) is going to have a much higher tolerance than even the best shop cut rotor in a field. Even the best shop lathe is still a "field service" and no match for a factory mill.
Perhaps you misunderstood or I wasn't clear enough. The correct answer is BOTH. New rotors AND a brake lathe.
"Pro-Cut’s Rotor Matching System has been the top choice of OEM’s for over two decades."
No I completely understand your point.
However, my thoughts are if you're cutting new rotors even with that fancy pants as-good-as-it-gets cutter, you're making them worse and ending up with greater inconsistencies compared to the factory milling, plus you're paying extra for it.
This is not the same as like getting a road force balance on tires.
Instead, it's more like how you don't gap spark plugs either anymore. The gaping especially on the more expensive iridium plugs are more precise and perfect from the factory, and you don't touch it.
If the rotor (or spark plug) looks warped like it was dropped off the truck or stored on the shelf incorrectly, you return the item as defective instead of cutting it or gapping it.
(Or if that really was as good as it gets, stop buying the cheap rotors that are coming with bad runout).
If this is an issue with your car's geometry or mounting, get your car's issue fixed instead.
Originally Posted By: raytseng
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
Originally Posted By: mclasser
The front rotors on my Pilot pulsate like crazy (common issue). Raybestos Advanced Tech rotors are supposedly heavy duty and a step up from OEM. Anyone have experience with them?
You need to find a shop that has an on-car brake lathe, like this:
http://www.procutusa.com/
http://www.procutusa.com/pdf/BrakeSaver_Brochure_2015.pdf
Your brake pads will last twice as long; and NOT "pulsate."
Or you just buy the new rotors that will cost the same as getting your rotors cut. Unless you have something exotic, most passenger car rotors such as this one that has a Raybestos AT offering is going to be cheap enough to be disposable.
I think I read and it was measured that a factory mill balancing on a good higher quality rotor (as is the raybestos) is going to have a much higher tolerance than even the best shop cut rotor in a field. Even the best shop lathe is still a "field service" and no match for a factory mill.
Perhaps you misunderstood or I wasn't clear enough. The correct answer is BOTH. New rotors AND a brake lathe.
"Pro-Cut’s Rotor Matching System has been the top choice of OEM’s for over two decades."
No I completely understand your point.
However, my thoughts are if you're cutting new rotors even with that fancy pants as-good-as-it-gets cutter, you're making them worse and ending up with greater inconsistencies compared to the factory milling, plus you're paying extra for it.
This is not the same as like getting a road force balance on tires.
Instead, it's more like how you don't gap spark plugs either anymore. The gaping especially on the more expensive iridium plugs are more precise and perfect from the factory, and you don't touch it.
If the rotor (or spark plug) looks warped like it was dropped off the truck or stored on the shelf incorrectly, you return the item as defective instead of cutting it or gapping it.
(Or if that really was as good as it gets, stop buying the cheap rotors that are coming with bad runout).
If this is an issue with your car's geometry or mounting, get your car's issue fixed instead.
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I have centric premium painted hats on the accord they have been great for nearly 4 years already.
I just ordered 4 more for my Lexus LS400 as well as new hardware.
I can't imagine centric premium is any better or worse than raybestos premium.
Carid.Com has front rotors centric for $41 and raybestos for $44.
I just ordered 4 more for my Lexus LS400 as well as new hardware.
I can't imagine centric premium is any better or worse than raybestos premium.
Carid.Com has front rotors centric for $41 and raybestos for $44.
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Get Akebon ProAct Ceramic pads and just good rotors.
I used the Raybestos AT when they had a rebate and were the cheapest rotors available. Heck of a deal.
Worked fine for my needs and solved an occasional pulsing I had with my Vue.
Worked fine for my needs and solved an occasional pulsing I had with my Vue.
Originally Posted By: raytseng
No I completely understand your point.
However, my thoughts are if you're cutting new rotors even with that fancy pants as-good-as-it-gets cutter, you're making them worse and ending up with greater inconsistencies compared to the factory milling, plus you're paying extra for it.
This is not the same as like getting a road force balance on tires.
Instead, it's more like how you don't gap spark plugs either anymore. The gaping especially on the more expensive iridium plugs are more precise and perfect from the factory, and you don't touch it.
If the rotor (or spark plug) looks warped like it was dropped off the truck or stored on the shelf incorrectly, you return the item as defective instead of cutting it or gapping it.
(Or if that really was as good as it gets, stop buying the cheap rotors that are coming with bad runout).
If this is an issue with your car's geometry or mounting, get your car's issue fixed instead.
Most hub/bearing assemblies have some amount of runout and poor repair practices in the field (i.e. failure to thoroughly clean the hub flange surface due to a flat-rate shop environment) greatly exacerbates this issue. A perfectly true rotor, if installed onto a hub without proper cleaning and/or index, will often result in lateral runout that exceeds the OEM specs. Many manufacturers require 0.0016" or less of runout now and it is difficult to meet this requirement without an on-car brake lathe or a lot of prep work. For the average shop, cutting the rotors using an on-car lathe is the easiest way to resolve runout issues and minimize the likelihood for premature comebacks. In my experience, most "hang and turn" brake jobs where the rotors are machined on a bench lathe will only last 15-25k on late-model Asian imports before pulsation issues arise.
EDIT-
I thoroughly clean the hub flange on every brake job I do, and about 1/3 of the time, I can't get the runout within factory specs while using OE or premium aftermarket rotors.
No I completely understand your point.
However, my thoughts are if you're cutting new rotors even with that fancy pants as-good-as-it-gets cutter, you're making them worse and ending up with greater inconsistencies compared to the factory milling, plus you're paying extra for it.
This is not the same as like getting a road force balance on tires.
Instead, it's more like how you don't gap spark plugs either anymore. The gaping especially on the more expensive iridium plugs are more precise and perfect from the factory, and you don't touch it.
If the rotor (or spark plug) looks warped like it was dropped off the truck or stored on the shelf incorrectly, you return the item as defective instead of cutting it or gapping it.
(Or if that really was as good as it gets, stop buying the cheap rotors that are coming with bad runout).
If this is an issue with your car's geometry or mounting, get your car's issue fixed instead.
Most hub/bearing assemblies have some amount of runout and poor repair practices in the field (i.e. failure to thoroughly clean the hub flange surface due to a flat-rate shop environment) greatly exacerbates this issue. A perfectly true rotor, if installed onto a hub without proper cleaning and/or index, will often result in lateral runout that exceeds the OEM specs. Many manufacturers require 0.0016" or less of runout now and it is difficult to meet this requirement without an on-car brake lathe or a lot of prep work. For the average shop, cutting the rotors using an on-car lathe is the easiest way to resolve runout issues and minimize the likelihood for premature comebacks. In my experience, most "hang and turn" brake jobs where the rotors are machined on a bench lathe will only last 15-25k on late-model Asian imports before pulsation issues arise.
EDIT-
I thoroughly clean the hub flange on every brake job I do, and about 1/3 of the time, I can't get the runout within factory specs while using OE or premium aftermarket rotors.
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I've got them, and like them. The points about on vehicle lathes are well taken here, and are covered in the Raybestos literature online, and in that of their competition. Some companies won't take back a "warped rotor" unless runout was properly checked on the vehicle at the outset.
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Thanks for the info, fellas! Seems like Raybestos is a good choice then.
I also looked into Centric Premium rotors on RockAuto. They seem to be well-regarded but I wonder how they'd fare in a heavy SUV like the Pilot. Besides an anti-corrosion coating, how do they differ from el cheapo rotors from any auto parts store?
Rotors are a common problem on this gen Pilot. Many people developed a pulsation in less than 20k miles and had the dealer resurface the rotors. I always torque the lug nuts to spec after someone else touches the wheels so that isn't the issue. The OE brake components are simply inadequate for a vehicle this size, which is why I want to upgrade to heavy duty stuff.
I also looked into Centric Premium rotors on RockAuto. They seem to be well-regarded but I wonder how they'd fare in a heavy SUV like the Pilot. Besides an anti-corrosion coating, how do they differ from el cheapo rotors from any auto parts store?
Rotors are a common problem on this gen Pilot. Many people developed a pulsation in less than 20k miles and had the dealer resurface the rotors. I always torque the lug nuts to spec after someone else touches the wheels so that isn't the issue. The OE brake components are simply inadequate for a vehicle this size, which is why I want to upgrade to heavy duty stuff.
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Not exactly a 1 for 1, but I put AT parts on a CRV (front only) and plain jane Raybestos (Professional? on all four wheels) on another vehicle about 3 weeks apart.
No real reason - just parts availability. The AT parts have a feel just like the OE honda if that is your thing. The cheaper raybestos are solid, but lack a little "bite."
Take it for what it's worth, but I'm using the AT next go around on the front. You may run into availability problems for rear - and might be able to get away with cheaper rotors and Akebono pads. I know guys like to keep the same on all four wheels, but I personally like the Akebono in back to offset the cheapie rotors. Just by dumb luck I found a mix that feels right.
One nice thing about Raybestos - they include hardware with the rotors.
No real reason - just parts availability. The AT parts have a feel just like the OE honda if that is your thing. The cheaper raybestos are solid, but lack a little "bite."
Take it for what it's worth, but I'm using the AT next go around on the front. You may run into availability problems for rear - and might be able to get away with cheaper rotors and Akebono pads. I know guys like to keep the same on all four wheels, but I personally like the Akebono in back to offset the cheapie rotors. Just by dumb luck I found a mix that feels right.
One nice thing about Raybestos - they include hardware with the rotors.
I realize this thread is old but missing some key info.
1. Yes, Raybestos Advance Technology rotors are excellent. Frozen Rotors uses these blanks to cryo treat. Napa Ultra Premium are Raybestos AT. Raybestos Specialty rotors (Police, etc.) are great too. The smooth factory finish of the AT rotors insure you get even deposition when braking in rotors/pads. Side note - Factory rotors often will have hot spots due to overheating. The material or design is under spec'd, especially for loaded mountainous driving or emergency stops. No surprise a Honda Odyssey or Dodge Caravan has brake shudder in < 10K miles.
2. While wheel lug torque is very important however it is not a key contributor to warped rotors (ask your dealer to show you test results of lugnut torque causing rotor issues). Rotor runout is more likely due to irregular rotor hub surface (hub bent, surface rust, dirt, etc.), rotor overheated or rotors cut on a lathe that has repeatability issues (I can't find anyone in 10 shops close to me that can cut a rotor with
3. Brake pads are typically the key contributor to shimmy/shudder due to friction material temp limit being exceeded (Odyssey or Sienna vans after a vacation trip in the mountains or any vehicle after an emergency stop) resulting in friction material breakdown and varying deposition on rotor surface. This variability on rotor surface causes friction variability, hence shudder. If you get a problem vehicle and rotors don't have any measured runout, yet you have shudder, you probably have thickness or rotor surface friction variability.
Both rotor and brake pad material is critical for long term smooth braking performance. I use Raybestos AT or Raybestos specialty rotors and Raybestos AT or specialty pads for best performance. Go to RockAuto for available part numbers. Slotted rotors will help in severe cases. I've used slotted rotors on Dodge Caravans, Honda Pilots, etc.
Hawk LTS pads are my goto pad if Raybestos specialty not available.
Akebono pads good however note that the friction material surface is often smaller (in height or sometimes length) than factory. I had Akebono pads with Frozen Rotors on 2009 Acura MDX. Rotor had scalloping on inner diameter portion of rotor surface (closet to hub) after 46K miles. Resurfaced rotors and installed Raybestos ATD1280C pads. No problems in 14K miles so far. We'll see.
1. Yes, Raybestos Advance Technology rotors are excellent. Frozen Rotors uses these blanks to cryo treat. Napa Ultra Premium are Raybestos AT. Raybestos Specialty rotors (Police, etc.) are great too. The smooth factory finish of the AT rotors insure you get even deposition when braking in rotors/pads. Side note - Factory rotors often will have hot spots due to overheating. The material or design is under spec'd, especially for loaded mountainous driving or emergency stops. No surprise a Honda Odyssey or Dodge Caravan has brake shudder in < 10K miles.
2. While wheel lug torque is very important however it is not a key contributor to warped rotors (ask your dealer to show you test results of lugnut torque causing rotor issues). Rotor runout is more likely due to irregular rotor hub surface (hub bent, surface rust, dirt, etc.), rotor overheated or rotors cut on a lathe that has repeatability issues (I can't find anyone in 10 shops close to me that can cut a rotor with
3. Brake pads are typically the key contributor to shimmy/shudder due to friction material temp limit being exceeded (Odyssey or Sienna vans after a vacation trip in the mountains or any vehicle after an emergency stop) resulting in friction material breakdown and varying deposition on rotor surface. This variability on rotor surface causes friction variability, hence shudder. If you get a problem vehicle and rotors don't have any measured runout, yet you have shudder, you probably have thickness or rotor surface friction variability.
Both rotor and brake pad material is critical for long term smooth braking performance. I use Raybestos AT or Raybestos specialty rotors and Raybestos AT or specialty pads for best performance. Go to RockAuto for available part numbers. Slotted rotors will help in severe cases. I've used slotted rotors on Dodge Caravans, Honda Pilots, etc.
Hawk LTS pads are my goto pad if Raybestos specialty not available.
Akebono pads good however note that the friction material surface is often smaller (in height or sometimes length) than factory. I had Akebono pads with Frozen Rotors on 2009 Acura MDX. Rotor had scalloping on inner diameter portion of rotor surface (closet to hub) after 46K miles. Resurfaced rotors and installed Raybestos ATD1280C pads. No problems in 14K miles so far. We'll see.
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