Ravenol Excessive For My Needs?

Isn't bud light America's favorite beer? Remember, both American and German beer, objectively, will only get you drunk. Everything else is in your head. So why should German beer cost more than a bud light?
Sorry, but I cannot imagine getting drunk from Bud Light.
 
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It doesn’t, in Germany. Most German beer in Germany is like Budweiser, I find it harder to get a decent beer there than in the US. Actually most countries for that matter. The US has some of the best craft beer in the world.
I am not sure you can stumble on Bud Light in any serious establishment here in CO. Not even sure about gas stations.
 
Sorry, but I cannot imagine getting drunk from Bud Light.
I'll take a Sam Adams or back when they still made it - Mississippi Mud which is also a dark 🍻

Bud light I wouldn't want my fridge to even be plugged in to keep it cold, waste of electricity.
 
It barely qualifies as Owl Whiz.
Ya so here is a truest of true stories. About 15 yrs ago I knew a food "scientist" for Coca-Cola. He explained that at the time the company had explored the possibility of expanding into the beer business and they was tasked with analyzing some of the offerings from Budweiser (sp?). Apparently to their surprise these beers contained food coloring, used more rice than they expected and were fermented just barely long enough to meet the definition of brewed beer.

In any case I myself will drink local or any german beer with the words, Dunkel, Weiss, Dopplebock, Kolsch, Marzen. I've been a multi-decade fan of the many offerings from Weihenstephan. Weirdest beer I've ever tried was Rauchbier. ack!
 
Derailing a thred within 5 Pages? "Hold my beer..."

German beer is so good because the Hop is spiced with the exhaust fumes from my Kawasaki. 😛
I am living close to the so called "Hallertau" area, the world biggest Hop plant area.

And no, i dont stoped there for a pee!
 

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Derailing a thred within 5 Pages? "Hold my beer..."

German beer is so good because the Hop is spiced with the exhaust fumes from my Kawasaki. 😛
I am living close to the so called "Hallertau" area, the world biggest Hop plant area.

And no, i dont stoped there for a pee!
I remember seeing these fields just north of Muenchen. The memories.
 
Yes, but i have seen some not so good UOAs where Ravenol thinned down from a -40 to -30 viscosity in no time.
My impression is that there where maybe some bad batches of Ravenol sold. Considering that Ravenol is a small company makes me leery. But, as i wrote, i am willing to change my mind.
 
Yes, but i have seen some not so good UOAs where Ravenol thinned down from a -40 to -30 viscosity in no time.
My impression is that there where maybe some bad batches of Ravenol sold. Considering that Ravenol is a small company makes me leery. But, as i wrote, i am willing to change my mind.
I really did not look for UOA, nor I am going to buy it considering price.
Found today in local Advance Auto Parts Castrol Edge 0W30 for $36 for 5qt + filter. Filters they had were Purolator (Mann), FRAm, K&N. Went with K&N being convinced I will gain at least 20hp :)
 
Answering OP and the way discussion went from tne middle onwards.

Ravenol is not an overkill, they also have moderately priced oils, but then why use them.
Ravenol USVO PAO with tungsten, tri-nuclear Moly and OFM is also not an overkill.
I lived through all market anomalies from actual synthetic to HC marketing scam and back. It took 15-17 years for the market to convince oil companies to bring back PAO and modern additives and state it in a clear apprehendable way.
I.m a consumer, not fortune teller or an extreme nerd to go into the process of self fooling and self convincing that something that's cheaped out might actually work...
I want it written in plain words and priced accordingly.

Before choosing Ravenol I went through literally all major brands. Ravenol is the one that holds pressure, keeps the noise, efficiency and power the same, doesn't det dark or dirty and just does the job. Note: some brands and types actually give you more power after 5-6k miles which I find rather disturbing. I want SAE-30, not SAE-20.

Your Camry being relatively unremarkable fashion-wize is a completely modern automobile, thus unless you are an engineer part of the developers team you can't know how demanding it actually is. Probably it is very demanding as every modern engine.
Using the best oil, note, the best on paper based on actual ingredients, licenses and approvals, not claims and not recommendations , but actual licenses and approvals, is the only thing you can do.
The other option is to use OE Toyota oil which is also very good.
And change it every 5k miles or 150-170 engine hours.
Oil is cheap even if it's expensive.
An oil change consists of labour, filters, consumables and oil. Oil hardly makes half of the total price.

Tungsten and tri-nuclear Moly are something let's say attainable, what's remarkable are the OFM and the limited usage of viscosity modifiers also other non disclosed modern high tech additives. That's what makes the difference.
PAO is not a trend or fetish, it's the carrier of everything and the part responsible for your main and rod bearings with it's hydraulic properties. PAO is the most reliable fluid for the said jobs. It will also not oxidate, age and make miserable things on it's own. HC has the nature of being miserable and creating a whole constellation of problems on it's own. Why use it?

And thye mantra "every engine and driving style are different", oh, yeah? Metallurgically engines from the same generation are quite similar. The situations of long traffic jams or ten hour drives are also similar, frequent stops and urban driving isn't a phenomenon disclosing different face on every occasion. If you've got a big chemical reactor that makes new chemicals out of it's own oil, you use the least reactive oil.
 
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Answering OP and the way discussion went from tne middle onwards.

Ravenol is not an overkill, they also have moderately priced oils, but then why use them.
Ravenol USVO PAO with tungsten, tri-nuclear Moly and OFM is also not an overkill.
I lived through all market anomalies from actual synthetic to HC marketing scam and back. It took 15-17 years for the market to convince oil companies to bring back PAO and modern additives and state it in a clear apprehendable way.
I.m a consumer, not fortune teller or an extreme nerd to go into the process of self fooling and self convincing that something that's cheaped out might actually work...
I want it written in plain words and priced accordingly.

Before choosing Ravenol I went through literally all major brands. Ravenol is the one that holds pressure, keeps the noise, efficiency and power the same, doesn't det dark or dirty and just does the job. Note: some brands and types actually give you more power after 5-6k miles which I find rather disturbing. I want SAE-30, not SAE-20.

Your Camry being relatively unremarkable fashion-wize is a completely modern automobile, thus unless you are an engineer part of the developers team you can't know how demanding it actually is. Probably it is very demanding as every modern engine.
Using the best oil, note, the best on paper based on actual ingredients, licenses and approvals, not claims and not recommendations , but actual licenses and approvals, is the only thing you can do.
The other option is to use OE Toyota oil which is also very good.
And change it every 5k miles or 150-170 engine hours.
Oil is cheap even if it's expensive.
An oil change consists of labour, filters, consumables and oil. Oil hardly makes half of the total price.

Tungsten and tri-nuclear Moly are something let's say attainable, what's remarkable are the OFM and the limited usage of viscosity modifiers also other non disclosed modern high tech additives. That's what makes the difference.
PAO is not a trend or fetish, it's the carrier of everything and the part responsible for your main and rod bearings with it's hydraulic properties. PAO is the most reliable fluid for the said jobs. It will also not oxidate, age and make miserable things on it's own. HC has the nature of being miserable and creating a whole constellation of problems on it's own. Why use it?

And thye mantra "every engine and driving style are different", oh, yeah? Metallurgically engines from the same generation are quite similar. The situations of long traffic jams or ten hour drives are also similar, frequent stops and urban driving isn't a phenomenon disclosing different face on every occasion. If you've got a big chemical reactor that makes new chemicals out of it's own oil, you use the least reactive oil.
That's something. Reactive oil you say? How does one measure reactivity in oil?
 
Answering OP and the way discussion went from tne middle onwards.

Ravenol is not an overkill, they also have moderately priced oils, but then why use them.
Ravenol USVO PAO with tungsten, tri-nuclear Moly and OFM is also not an overkill.
I lived through all market anomalies from actual synthetic to HC marketing scam and back. It took 15-17 years for the market to convince oil companies to bring back PAO and modern additives and state it in a clear apprehendable way.
I.m a consumer, not fortune teller or an extreme nerd to go into the process of self fooling and self convincing that something that's cheaped out might actually work...
I want it written in plain words and priced accordingly.

Before choosing Ravenol I went through literally all major brands. Ravenol is the one that holds pressure, keeps the noise, efficiency and power the same, doesn't det dark or dirty and just does the job. Note: some brands and types actually give you more power after 5-6k miles which I find rather disturbing. I want SAE-30, not SAE-20.

Your Camry being relatively unremarkable fashion-wize is a completely modern automobile, thus unless you are an engineer part of the developers team you can't know how demanding it actually is. Probably it is very demanding as every modern engine.
Using the best oil, note, the best on paper based on actual ingredients, licenses and approvals, not claims and not recommendations , but actual licenses and approvals, is the only thing you can do.
The other option is to use OE Toyota oil which is also very good.
And change it every 5k miles or 150-170 engine hours.
Oil is cheap even if it's expensive.
An oil change consists of labour, filters, consumables and oil. Oil hardly makes half of the total price.

Tungsten and tri-nuclear Moly are something let's say attainable, what's remarkable are the OFM and the limited usage of viscosity modifiers also other non disclosed modern high tech additives. That's what makes the difference.
PAO is not a trend or fetish, it's the carrier of everything and the part responsible for your main and rod bearings with it's hydraulic properties. PAO is the most reliable fluid for the said jobs. It will also not oxidate, age and make miserable things on it's own. HC has the nature of being miserable and creating a whole constellation of problems on it's own. Why use it?

And thye mantra "every engine and driving style are different", oh, yeah? Metallurgically engines from the same generation are quite similar. The situations of long traffic jams or ten hour drives are also similar, frequent stops and urban driving isn't a phenomenon disclosing different face on every occasion. If you've got a big chemical reactor that makes new chemicals out of it's own oil, you use the least reactive oil.
Being that the OP is in the United States price is the issue. It's priced a lot higher than comparable products from Mobil 1, Shell (aka Pennzoil, Quaker State), etc. Blauparts (aka Ravenol America) is the only distributor in the US. I imagine it's priced similar to what Redline would be in Europe.



 
Allow me to preface my remarks with a little background. I recently purchased a 2011 Camry 2.5 with a little more than 77K on the clock. The car seems to be pretty solid, and I like it. Fits my needs perfectly. I don't drive many miles per year, but do a lot of short trips locally, although I get on the highway once or twice a month for longer drives, 50 miles or more. Since I drive around 5,000 miles per year, I'm on roughly a once a year OCI. I like to use a good quality oil ... right now Castrol Edge EP is in the sump, although I've generally used Mobil 1 in the past. I have my next oil change on the shelf, M1 EP.

I have been reading about Ravenol, and it appears to be an exceptional oil ... it's certainly spendy! I've been toying with the idea of moving to Ravenol after the M1 is gone, but I suspect it's totally over the top for my car and driving style. The cost is a small concern, but way down on the list of importance.

My question is this: considering the oil(s) I'm using now, will I see any advantage of moving to Ravenol? Depending on the flavor, could I get a 2 year OCI from the brand? Some have suggested I'm using a better oil now than is needed for the ol' Camry, and I understand that, but I'm not going to change. I'm comfortable with what I'm doing.

My initial thoughts are to leave things as they are unless there is some benefit to changing.
You're right: If it ain't broke don't fix it.
 
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