R.O. water for coolant flush

The whole towns water is RO? That is amazing.
Yes. it is a small town of around 1500 residents I think. The water was high in alkalinity, and about 38 grains/ gallon hardness, & pushing the allowable tolerances for arsenic.

It was so bad that a new water heater would start leaking within 4-10 years. The landfill was always full of water heaters that had rusted out. I went through 3 water heaters within about 14 years, & replaced my most current 1 just before they got the R.O. system going.

I had a TDS meter for measuring total dissolved solids in the tap water & it would only read up to 2000 ppm & it would not read high enough to measure the water

I know of another town of about the same population within a 2 hour drive that has had the same type of water treatment plant.

I am not sure what kind of capacity it has but it seems like it is able to keep up with residents and lawn watering in the summer with no issues.
 
last one i Did, I used R.O. Water for the Flushes...
Distilled is in the neighborhood of $1/Gal
The Local Kinetico Dealer has coin op dispensers in their lobby, Bulk R.O. water for 25¢/gal.
 
No idea what RO water is, but how much does 15-20 gallons of distilled water cost in the scheme of things? Like $25? If that's gonna break you, why own a 2018?
more for the ease of having a pressurized water tap on the house to flush out the old coolant.
Just asking to see what other people had for an opinion, & whether the added chlorine/ fluoride in the town water would cause problems.
Thought I may need to still flush with distilled ($3.00/ gallon) or deionized water ($6.00/ Gallon) after it was running clear on R.O. water.
 
i flushed my cooling system with hose water, the kind you can grow stalactites with. i had the water pump off though, so the block atleast was empty when I was done. i couldn't find distilled water so I used r.o water and the proper coolant, haven't seen any problems. many people where I live don't even use antifreeze in their cars, just straight water, and those cars have a ton of rust in the cooling system but seem to survive anyway. it doesn't freeze where I live.
 
I can't speak about the potential of metals being drawn into the water with DI, RO, or distilled only water. But I can verify from personal experience, that ultra purified/polished water will attack metal components, to the point of destruction.

Many years ago I was managing an automotive seat belt test lab. It was a new facility, and the lab manager from a sister facility had a company design a water purification system. The purified water was used for salt fog testing, and also for the humidity generator on the environmental chamber. The water first went through a pair of sediment filters, then a charcoal filter. Next was a water softener, then a pair of DI tanks. Last was an RO system. From there, the water was used to make brine solution for the salt fog chamber, and also supplied water for the humidity generator.

Before long, we had problems with the electric heater elements failing in the humidity generator. When we replaced the heater elements, we found that the copper tube had been eaten through on the old heater element, resulting in the failure. This happened a few times before we called in an expert to help us.

The expert determined that our water was over polished, to the point that it was drawing metal from the components of the water generator system. The copper tubing on the heater elements was the softest metal, so it always got attacked first. We changed the piping, so the water for the humidity generator was sourced after the DI tanks, but before the RO system. This did the trick. We never had to replace another heater element.

Of course, this was not a closed system, like a cooling system on an engine. Instead, water was constantly consumed and replenished, to generate the humidity needed in the environmental chamber. But water can be too pure.
Yes, I manage a university lab with a number of RO (reverse osmosis) water systems. Some of it is ultra pure water at 18 MegOhm per cm resistance, for comparison town water is about 0.001 to 0.01 MegOhm resistance.

The ultrapure stuff is corrosive to my stainless steel sinks and copper pipes. However all I have to do is turn on the town water tap for a final rinse and my sinks are fine, and I use polymer pipes.

You get different types of RO water, Type I is >10 MegOhm, Type II is > 1 MegOhm, Type III is >0.1 MegOhm.

OP, the RO town water would be of a much lower purity than my lab water (but probably clean enough for your application), and it would have sucked what it needs from the town pipes and not be corrosive for your application. Anyway, once you add the coolant, you have added ions to the water and it's no longer RO purity.
 
Yes, I manage a university lab with a number of RO (reverse osmosis) water systems. Some of it is ultra pure water at 18 MegOhm per cm resistance, for comparison town water is about 0.001 to 0.01 MegOhm resistance.

The ultrapure stuff is corrosive to my stainless steel sinks and copper pipes. However all I have to do is turn on the town water tap for a final rinse and my sinks are fine, and I use polymer pipes.

You get different types of RO water, Type I is >10 MegOhm, Type II is > 1 MegOhm, Type III is >0.1 MegOhm.

OP, the RO town water would be of a much lower purity than my lab water (but probably clean enough for your application), and it would have sucked what it needs from the town pipes and not be corrosive for your application. Anyway, once you add the coolant, you have added ions to the water and it's no longer RO purity.
I was reading the Risonal article and thought they mixed up distilled and RO, but how could they since they have chemists on staff. I do know our 500 gallon RO system is all stainless and poly tubing/fittings with a poly tank, otherwise we were told it would eat up anything else. We had some equipment that had brass fitting and they were popping leaks 4 months later. I had to convert old units to all stainless fittings. We also have to re treat the RO water with additives so the water will attack the additives and not our printing water etch that was being attacked by pure RO water. We were told if our RO water went down to use distilled water as it would not have any minerals in it to screw up our water chemistry. NOW I have two places telling me the direction opposite.

Edit: I re read it and now it makes sense, the funny thing is I actually put Risinol water additive just by chance as their version of water wetter had the least foam when i shook different brands up. I did this in my 4 month ago full flush distilled water antifreeze brew. So the moly should help me out.
 
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I was reading the Risonal article and thought they mixed up distilled and RO, but how could they since they have chemists on staff. I do know our 500 gallon RO system is all stainless and poly tubing/fittings with a poly tank, otherwise we were told it would eat up anything else. We had some equipment that had brass fitting and they were popping leaks 4 months later. I had to convert old units to all stainless fittings. We also have to re treat the RO water with additives so the water will attack the additives and not our printing water etch that was being attacked by pure RO water. We were told if our RO water went down to use distilled water as it would not have any minerals in it to screw up our water chemistry. NOW I have two places telling me the direction opposite.

Edit: I re read it and now it makes sense, the funny thing is I actually put Risinol water additive just by chance as their version of water wetter had the least foam when i shook different brands up. I did this in my 4 month ago full flush distilled water antifreeze brew. So the moly should help me out.
Flowing RO, distilled or deionized water will act exactly the same.

Also when it is flowing there is no opportunity for saturation as there is in a closed system.
 
I've worked with 18 megaohm water systems a decent bit, and yes the stuff can be nasty. The one in my lab in grad school(which I was responsible for maintaining) used PTFE for a lot of the components. This grade of water is fairly exotic, though. We fed it "house" DI water which was prepped by a massive ion exchange system down in the basement(that later in my life I did some maintenance on) that would guarantee 1 megaohm output. Our ultrapure water system then passed this water through a couple of further ion exchange resins and "scrubber" cartridges for organics, before finally outputting though a .5 micron filter.

Here's the key in all of these systems, though-they were constantly dealing with "fresh" water(i.e. their purpose was to dispense water that had already been cleaned up).

A car's cooling system is effectively a sealed system. Chemists often quantify solubility of sparingly soluble compounds by their solubility product constant(Ksp), which describes the concentration after a system has come to equilibrium. For a lot of the things we're talking about dissolving, Ksp values might be 10^-5 or smaller. That means it will reach equilibrium at a very low concentration. If in some other way any of the ions concerned are introduced to the solution, such as through the coolant additive pack, the ability to dissolve that particular ion drops dramatically(this is called the common ion effect-it can be calculated if you so desire and I have my students do it).

In other words, use DI, RO, distilled or whatever without concern for the corrosion it may cause. I mentioned ultrapure water, but it's drastic overkill for anything you'd do in a car and is also expensive to produce. We used it a lot because we did surface chemistry and other things where even trace contaminants would cause issues.
 
I was looking through a Datsun FSM from the 70s and, their recommendation was to use either deionized or CAPTURED RAIN water.
 
Distilled water has 0 tds. RO can have upwards of 10ppm. Will it make a difference? I use distilled for my cpap machine even though we have reverse osmosis.
 
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