Used regular toothpaste on a couple of older cars headlights with good results. I can say it's one cheap internet hack that worked for me (besides new cat liter in a sock to keep car windows from fogging up, that works too).
Quick headlight restoration?
- Thread starter cknight49090
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Regarding the Trizact pad that comes in a 3M kit: This is frequently the 3rd to the last step in the restoration process. The last 2 steps typically being a rubbing compound and then a wax sealant. Trizact in the kit is 3000 grit. I ordered sandpaper discs from 800 grit to 10,000 grit. Wound sanding with ever finer grit and ultimately sealing with a good quality wax give superior results?
I did similar with just wet sanding with water - I think I started with 600 grit and then worked up to 2000 grit - then polished with Turtle Was Seal & Shine with UV protectant ... So far so good !
All of those products sold as headlight restoration kits are going to work to some point but will not last. Some will last 3mo and some will last 12mo. But none are permanent. Even sanding, polishing and putting a film like XPEL on is really only mediocre at best as the films will start to yellow and degrade over time. Not that any repair will be "optically clear", but films aren't known for thier clarity.
The only permanent solution is sanding and clear coating. I say permanent loosely, but I've done headlights in this fashion that have stayed crystal clear for over 5yrs. You MUST use a 2 part clear coat like Spraymax 2k Glamour or a 2 part clear sprayed out of a gun. Rustoleum 2x is NOT acceptable.
My process
-Remove headlights or mask of the front
-dry sand with 340 until all factory coating is gone and the surface is evenly scuffed
-wet sand 600 until uniform, wipe periodically to see your progress. I like to add 1-2 drops of Dawn into a 32oz spray bottle for a little lube.
-wet sand 800 until uniform
-clean surface with Isopropyl Alcohol or Automotive Wax & Grease remover. Inspect at this time for sanding uniformity.
-spray a light tack coat on the lenses and follow up with heavier coats following the Spraymax can's instructions until the can is almost empty. Do not worry about runs or orange peel at this time. Leave it alone!
-wet sand any imperfections with 1500 then 2500 and polish using a polisher and compound of your choice.
This process has worked for me several times. There is no need to sand any finer than 800 before applying clear coat. It needs the mechanical adhesion since plastic adhesion promotors can't be used and 1000 doesn't provide any difference in clarity. This is thicker and tougher than your paints clear coat.
The only permanent solution is sanding and clear coating. I say permanent loosely, but I've done headlights in this fashion that have stayed crystal clear for over 5yrs. You MUST use a 2 part clear coat like Spraymax 2k Glamour or a 2 part clear sprayed out of a gun. Rustoleum 2x is NOT acceptable.
My process
-Remove headlights or mask of the front
-dry sand with 340 until all factory coating is gone and the surface is evenly scuffed
-wet sand 600 until uniform, wipe periodically to see your progress. I like to add 1-2 drops of Dawn into a 32oz spray bottle for a little lube.
-wet sand 800 until uniform
-clean surface with Isopropyl Alcohol or Automotive Wax & Grease remover. Inspect at this time for sanding uniformity.
-spray a light tack coat on the lenses and follow up with heavier coats following the Spraymax can's instructions until the can is almost empty. Do not worry about runs or orange peel at this time. Leave it alone!
-wet sand any imperfections with 1500 then 2500 and polish using a polisher and compound of your choice.
This process has worked for me several times. There is no need to sand any finer than 800 before applying clear coat. It needs the mechanical adhesion since plastic adhesion promotors can't be used and 1000 doesn't provide any difference in clarity. This is thicker and tougher than your paints clear coat.
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WD-40.
I'd share a video, maybe I should just make one...
I'd share a video, maybe I should just make one...
If you use the 3M headlight coating, the 3000 Trizact is the last thing you do before that. You want a bite for the coating to adhere to so no wax or sealant if you will be using a coating.
I wetsand and use Meguairs 105/205 and a buffer. I've also wet-sanded and cleared some of them with 2k clear and my DeVilbiss SRi Pro. Pros and Cons. Wetsand and Buff won't hold up that long, 6 months to a year outside before it needs a quick buff again. Clearing doesn't leave you with that crystal clear look unless you also wetsand and buff the final product but it will hold up longer. Eventually the clear will start chipping off and that's a pain in the butt to redo. But on a daily that will likely take 4-5 years to be an issue you have to address.
Canned 1k clear won't offer any real UV protection. That would be my last choice compared to the above.
Canned 1k clear won't offer any real UV protection. That would be my last choice compared to the above.
If someone went through the time of wet sanding and clear coating, why would they not wet sand and polish afterwards? Clarity is the whole purpose of restoring headlights. Afterall, this whole forum is dedicated to people who dive way too deep into every automotive topic. lol I'm no optical scientist, but I think 2k is more "optically" clear than any other process of headlight restoration.
I would venture to say that 2k clear coat will last more than 4-5 years. Unless a ton of miles are put on the vehicle and you end up behind a lot of semi's. When using Spraymax 2k clear, I use most of the can because it's pretty much useless 24hrs after mixing. That usually ends up being 5-6 coats. Way thicker than the factory hard coat on the headlights or the paints clear coat. I have never had any of the headlights I've done chip off the lens, even the ones I sanded to 1000 before spraying. If chips of clear coming off the lens, then I would guess prep was the issue. Rock chips will happen, but that will happen to even new headlights.
Well, many do not have the tools or experience to sand and buff clearcoat, but sandpaper and spray cans are pretty cheap. Seemed worth mentioning.
I am talking about rock chips on your headlights lenses adding up and requiring refinishing. Spraying onto a plastic headlight lense isn't the ideal surface for clear imo, the bond is certainly not as strong as on a prepped body panel. You're not going to hit a headlight with adhesion promoter like you would other plastics. 1000 is also not the ideal surface prep, but I use that same grit because otherwise the finished product doesn't look as good. I wouldn't trust them to handle a pressure washer close up once they get some road chips.
Putting more product doesn't increase chip resistance, I've always heard it has the opposite effect. But Spraymax might not cure as hard which is the key to chip resistance.
I'm sure alot of wear and tear depends on the vehicle. My Accord gets sandblasted on the highway but my truck doesn't.
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Wet sand 600 grit to clean clear plastic and spray a 2k clear. Spraymax if you don’t have a spray gun. Done for many years…
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Project farm did some informal testing
Sylvania and 3M came out on top
Sylvania and 3M came out on top
I see where you're coming from. But special tools aren't really needed. Sandpaper, a foam backing pad or yoga mat foam, a cheap drill buffing kit and compound of your choice. As for experience, I didn't have any when I first did it. I've never done any body work or paint correction with a machine when I started doing it.
I have also heard that about thicker paint/clear chipping easier. But I wonder if that comes down to technique or product? I have done 1000 grit and never had an issue, but I prefer 800 grit as a finishing sand because it allows for better mechanical adhesion. I have pressure washed and driven my vehicles for years with no issues. My BIL's G6 that mostly sees gravel travel on their farm and back highways during harvest with crap everywhere on the road hasn't had any flaking either. Sure, there are some small rock chips, but nothing more than an OEM headlight would have. It would be easy enough to sand and respray if he wanted since the chips have not reached the plastic either.
I tried 600 once on some junk headlights and it did not work for me. But it could have been the lens itself or my technique. I only use sandpaper by hand though. If you had a rotary or orbital sander, 600 grit would probably work fine.
What didn’t work with 600? I have power sanders but usually headlights are shaped where it doesn’t make sense to use them and I just wet sand by hand. If you don’t sand through the old coating and just rough them up and spray, they’ll look a lot better but won’t have that crystal clear look to them. Could be whatever clear you’re spraying also. I use 2k clear just like you’d use painting a car. Works great! I’m sure you could go higher grit and still have adhesion but a couple coats of clear over 600 wet sanded does well for me.
It could have been many reasons. I use Spraymax 2k Glamour since I don't have a spray gun and haven't looked into mixing clear coat. It was an old set of 00-04 Outback headlights I got from the salvage yard so there was nothing to lose. I mainly wanted to just try it as a technique since I had seen others use 600 as a final step. I noticed it was just a bit cloudy in appearance. It wasn't on the inside but I also didn't inspect further. This was back when Spraymax was about $14 so I wasn't mad. Plus I was doing some other stuff at the same time.
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That's exactly what I do too
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I just made a video about this, not here on the Forum but on a site for Your videos on a Tube of sorts. Took me about 30 seconds to do both sides. There is also another thread, "Best headlight restoration method" or something like it.
Short version. WD40. Spray on, somewhat liberally. Paper towel. Wipe off for about 5 seconds. Don't get hung up going crazy trying to wipe it in, deep wipe it off, etc. That is the mistake I made at first.
Results will last about two weeks to a month. When it is unacceptably dirty . Repeat the 30 seconds total process again.
This may not be deep NOR permanent but, my goodness... It works.
Short version. WD40. Spray on, somewhat liberally. Paper towel. Wipe off for about 5 seconds. Don't get hung up going crazy trying to wipe it in, deep wipe it off, etc. That is the mistake I made at first.
Results will last about two weeks to a month. When it is unacceptably dirty . Repeat the 30 seconds total process again.
This may not be deep NOR permanent but, my goodness... It works.
If you are selling the car and buddy is showing up in 5 minutes WD40 is the way to go. Doesnt last but is quick and easy.
Paco
I tried the kits a couple of times. Sorta worked. A few weeks ago I finally tried Crest whitening toothpaste. Best results I have ever gotten. I have not tried the vinegar and deet afterwards yet.
