1994 GMC K1500, 350 TBI. New engine. Break-in oil is Pennzoil 5w30 conventional. Lots of short trips. How many miles should I run the break-in oil?
Question on break-in oil
- Thread starter otis24
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IIWM about 10 nice heat/cool cycles, where the engine is at full operating temps for 20-30 minutes.
Why don't you ask the engine manufacturer who warranties the thing?
Remanufactured engines are not built in original clean rooms at the factory. Drive it 1k and change it. Drive it another 2k And change it. Then do what the owners manual calls for.
He said NEW engine.
How many miles have you driven it so far? Pennzoil Conventional is not an especially good break in oil unless you use something like Redline break in additive with it.
To clarify, it is a reman engine. I’ve not driven it any yet. Still in the shop. Hope to have it back tomorrow or Monday.
Roller cam?
You can use a formulated break in oil like Gibbs, Motul, etc or use Redline's product with any engine oil, it works great.
In an off the shelf 5w30 conventional oil it probably has between 750-800 ppm zinc which is not good for this job, it is not just about the camshaft, yes you want to minimize cam wear but you do want the bores to wear a little to seat the rings, that is one of the reasons for these products.
About 1400 ppm zinc and 1200 phosphorus is ideal for this purpose. This is the treat rate for Redline, this is the amount the oil will be raised by eg an oil like Napa conventional has 735 ppm zinc so you are looking to almost double that amount so in a 5qt sump you would add about 5oz of the additive to the fill.
If you are installing it make sure to prime the engine first, it undoubtedly has assy lube in the internals but should be primed anyway.
You may be able to use a drill on this one or there is the prelube tanks that prime and fill through an oil port or oil pressure switch. Both can probably be rented.
If you do remove a galley plug or switch do not use teflon tape when reinstalling it, thread sealer like Loctite 565 only.
The first start is the most important start of you new engines life doing it right will go a long way in keeping it from using oil and compression and cam issues. This is how I do it, there are other ways that I am sure work just as well but this has always done me right.
Fill the coolant using a vacuum filler or make sure the block is full of coolant not just the radiator. On this engine fill the block before installing the thermostat then top off the radiator when everything is together, do not run it sans thermostat the engine needs to achieve operating temperature.
Check every hose and wire for proper fitment and tightness, you don't want the thing spewing coolant all over the place or misfiring.
If you have not primed and filled the engine do so now. For the first run use 1/2 a bottle of additive if that is what you use. For bigger cams with flat tappets and high rate springs use a full bottle.
Start the engine, let idle for a about 10 seconds to insure oil pressure then raise the rpm to about 1K and quickly set the timing enough that it runs halfway proper if it is adjustable if not raise it to 2K and leave it there for 20 min. shut it down and let it cool a little then dump the oil and filter.
Refill the oil using 5 oz of the additive and drive it about 20-100 miles, at 100 miles dump the oil and filter again, use the same oil and additive amount and run it 500 mi this time, the next time to 1000 miles.
at this point you can use about 3-4 oz of the additive and run it out to 3K then use whatever oil you intend to run, personally I run Mobil 1 0w40 in pushrod engines, the 1100 ppm zinc and viscosity is perfect for these engines.
A few links.
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2020...ch-starting-up-your-new-engine-the-right-way/
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/23550/10002/-1
https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-814...ocphy=9001771&hvtargid=pla-406644939495&psc=1
https://www.redlineoil.com/engine-oil-break-in-additive
Tool for holding the gas pedal while you keep an eye out under the hood.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-48700-...636204755&sprefix=throttle+hol,aps,106&sr=8-2
Redline break-in oil. These are the specs and chart showing what it adds per qt. Increases anti-wear level per quart when using
One Bottle (16oz.) Capacity - Phosphorus - Zinc
15 quarts - 610 ppm - 736 ppm
12 quarts - 763 ppm - 920 ppm
10 quarts - 915 ppm - 1104 ppm
8 quarts - 1145 ppm - 1380 ppm
7 quarts - 1307 ppm - 1577 ppm
6 quarts - 1525 ppm - 1840 ppm
5 quarts - 1830 ppm - 2208 ppm
4 quarts - 2288 ppm - 2760 ppm
1 quart - 9160 ppm - 11040 ppm
(8oz.) when treating: Capacity - Phosphorus - Zinc
12 quarts - 382 ppm - 460 ppm
10 quarts - 458 ppm - 552 ppm
8 quarts - 572 ppm - 690 ppm
6 quarts - 763 ppm - 920 ppm
5 quarts - 915 ppm - 1104 ppm
4 quarts - 1145 ppm - 1380 ppm
(4oz) when treating: Capacity – Phosphorus - Zinc
6 quarts - 382 ppm - 460 ppm
5 quarts - 458 ppm - 552 ppm
4 quarts - 572 ppm - 690 ppm
3 quarts - 763 ppm - 920 ppm
(2oz) when treating: Capacity – Phosphorus – Zinc
6 quarts - 191 ppm - 230 ppm
5 quarts - 229 ppm - 276 ppm
4 quarts - 286 ppm - 345 ppm
3 quarts - 381 ppm - 460 ppm
(1oz) when treating: Capacity – Phosphorus – Zinc
6 quarts - 95 ppm - 115 ppm
5 quarts - 114 ppm - 138 ppm
4 quarts - 143 ppm - 172 ppm
3 quarts - 190 ppm - 230 ppm
Bottle (16oz) contains: 33.8 grams total ZDDP (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) 17,000 ppm, 7.8 grams Phosphorus (P) 20,500 ppm, 9.4 grams Zinc (Zn) 16.6 grams Sulphur (S)
I ordered the Redline Break In additive.
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