Question for the Lawn Boy folks

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Mar 31, 2010
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Hey guys, our daughter has a lawn boy that she knew little about... Ended up dumping motor oil in the gas because it says to mix oil 😂 (at least she tried). Now it smokes really bad and basically died and won't restart. Since she's out town, I'm going to gather up some stuff to get that one and her other mower running again.. What spark plug does it take? Oil ratio? 32 or 40 to 1?What about the air filter? Is it serviceable or a paper type? This is the only picture that shows anything, hopefully someone will recognize the machine.

Also,is there anything thing else I need to know?
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Also might want to clean the contact on the coil, and verify the gap between the coil and the flywheel. I use a piece of cardboard from the back of a legal pad for gap distance.

Air filter should be serviceable foam. Wash, dry, add a small amount of motor oil, work it through, and then squeeze excess oil out.

Spark plug can vary from model to model. 32:1 is what I mix at.
 
I have a 2000 model and I while it does specify TC-W3 ashless oil, mine has run fine for 23 years on any old oil I fed it. I must admit that it's gotten some pricey racing oils and some cheapy grocery store swill but it never seemed to mind anything I gave it. The new stuff they make now is impressive and you won't go wrong with any of the universal mix TC-W3 stuff from WalMart. If I were to buy that type of oil then I'd get Pennzoil outboard motor oil because I just love the color of those yellow bottles. They take me back to my youth and the Indy car era.

The spark plug in my model (10247) is a Champion RCJ8Y per Champions application guide and the owner's manual specifies a NGK BPMR4A gapped at 0.035".

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Looks like an F engine. Regardless, I’m not aware of any 2 stroke Lawn Boy engines(aside maybe from the M series) that’s take anything other than a Champion CJ14. The factory plug on later ones was an NGK BM4A, which is interchangeable. I like the NGK plug a bit better but it’s not overly easy to find at lady locally for me(the auto parts stores can order them).

As said, drain the tanks and clean the card and more importantly the exhaust and muffler. Some people bake the mufflers on their grill for an hour or so and say all the carbon will just dump out(I’ve never tried it). I doubt any lasting damage was done.

BTW, I normally use genuine Lawn Boy oil mixed 32:1. The Ace hardware stores in my area carry it in 4oz and 8oz bottles. I have used both TC-W3 and FD, but the former s specified. I figure an engine design by a company known for 2 stroke outboards probably knew what they were doing
 
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Awesome, thanks guys! This should hopefully be all I need to know and possibly all I'll be equipped to handle hours away from home
 
he spark plug in my model (10247) is a Champion RCJ8Y per Champions application guide and the owner's manual specifies a NGK BPMR4A gapped at 0.035".
I’ll check the service manual when I’m home tonight but I could have sworn that everything I have documentation on(going back to the D400) says either CJ14 or BM4A.

A Champion 8 sounds like a really, really cold plug in this application to me. They are low compression engines and it’s pretty difficult to get one to knock unless you have crummy gas and are really loading it down.

My 7262, which has a D600, had an NGK 6 series plug in it, which I know from other uses roughly crosses to a champion 9 series so just a tick warmer than a Champion 8. It had issues mostly related to a bad coil when I first got it, but even repaired it was hard starting, would 4 stroke even under relatively moderate loads, and the plug would carbon up fairly quickly. With a Champion 14 it starts on the first or second pull, the plug stays relatively clean, and will only 4 stroke if I really push it(such as the end of the row mulching thick grass)
 
I’ll check the service manual when I’m home tonight but I could have sworn that everything I have documentation on(going back to the D400) says either CJ14 or BM4A.
let me help you... here is a copy of my Lawn-Boy owner's manual, a copy of the Champion application guide, and a copy of the spark plug cross reference guide from Sten's. It doesn't get any simpler than this. Feel free to write these three companies and let them know if you feel they're incorrect with their part numbers and applications.
Lawnboy manual spark plug.jpg


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plug cross reference.JPG
 
How are these things for parts availability? Trying to look forward a bit if she elects to keep this thing...
 
et me help you... here is a copy of my Lawn-Boy owner's manual, a copy of the Champion application guide, and a copy of the spark plug cross reference guide from Sten's. It doesn't get any simpler than this. Feel free to write these three companies and let them know if you feel they're incorrect with their part numbers and applications.

Well, considering that the service manuals for the D400, D600, and F engine are quite explicit that CJ-14 is the correct plug I would suggest that in fact Champion and Stens are NOT correct.

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Further, by your own provided primary material(the owner's manual for your 10247, an E, or Duraforce powered mower) an NGK 4 series plug is correct. I provided the number BM4A, and truth be told I may have been working on memory and would have to look and see which I have on hand. The key difference in the two is the former has a projected tip.

Regardless, my key point in all of this is that the correct plug specified for the E engine(and later production F engines from manuals I have seen) is an NGK with a heat rating of "4"

Per this chart from NGK, a heat range of 4 corresponds to a Champion 14(or 16) plug and an 8 is quite a bit colder.
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CJ14 is both consistent with older material from Lawn-Boy and is consistent with heat/temperature cross references specified on newer models. For that reason, I will stand by CJ14 being the correct Champion plug for this application(or for any 2 cycle Lawn Boy from the 1950s to 2004 save the V and M engines, which do specify a different temperature)
 
Instead of arguing over what your manual states and what my manual states, the proper answer for the original poster will depend on what model he owns. Obviously your owner's manual calls for one type of spark plug and my owner's manual calls for a different one. Neither of us are wrong with regard to what our equipment uses. However, and again, the correct answers depend on what the OP is operating. From the looks of the mower in his picture it's definitely older than my 2000 model.
 
Instead of arguing over what your manual states and what my manual states, the proper answer for the original poster will depend on what model he owns. Obviously your owner's manual calls for one type of spark plug and my owner's manual calls for a different one. Neither of us are wrong with regard to what our equipment uses. However, and again, the correct answers depend on what the OP is operating. From the looks of the mower in his picture it's definitely older than my 2000 model.

My main and only real objection was the reference to the Champion series 8 plug, which as I said experience has shown me is not a great match for Lawn Boys.

I can't find exactly how much the tip on the BPM4a projects. NGK only specifies the tip as projected or not, whereas Champion offers about 6 different projection lengths. From reading around a bit, if one wanted a 14 heat projected tip, a CJ14Y would probably be the correct one, but that plug doesn't seem to exist.

Regardless, whether using a projected tip or not, experience with a range of Lawn Boy engines tells me that the really, really hot BP4Ma or CJ-14 leads to easier starting, better/more consistent running, and a plug less likely to foul in these engines. I did just look and I had pulled a CJ8 out of a mower at one point or another that was a cantankerous starter and would lose power or 4-stroke far more easily than I'd have expected. Even cleaning the plug, which I do before replacing(honestly these things seem to last forever, especially if they're the proper temperature plug, and if I do anything to clean I'll wire brush by hand with a brass brush then carb cleaner and finally compressed air) didn't help, and it showed a strong spark out of the mowerr. A CJ14, which is what I had, made a big difference almost immediately, and even more so once I re-adjusted the carb to it.

The OP shows an electric start F engine compliance era mower, probably with the 3 speed transmission. It looks to me a lot like a 10515, which is manual start but with the 3 speed transmission. I don't know the electric start model number off the top of my head(spitballing it may be 10537, as the the manual start 3-speed Duraforce is a 10525 and electric is 10547) which is likely a mid to late 90s mower. The service page I posted above is for the pre-compliance and early compliance F engine. It may still spec a CJ-14, or it may spec the BM4a or BPM4a. If the OP fitted any of those plugs, they're likely to be very happy with the operation.
 
At least your daughter knew that the fuel required oil and didn't straight gas it. That is the LB of my dreams, please take care of it :cool:
 
At least your daughter knew that the fuel required oil and didn't straight gas it. That is the LB of my dreams, please take care of it :cool:
She's more mechanically inclined than your average woman, that's for sure. She still doesn't know much, but with some teaching and her willingness to dive in, she could do alright.

That mower is still running - it ended up having a bunch of water in the tank like the other mower that she has. We set up some saw horses and I supervised while she cleaned them out good. Fresh fuel in the first and some 32:1 in the Lawn Boy and they both run good.

I'm trying to get her to buy an electric (either plug in or battery) mower since her yard is tiny. No fuel/oil to store worry about, less maintenance and so on.
 
She's more mechanically inclined than your average woman, that's for sure. She still doesn't know much, but with some teaching and her willingness to dive in, she could do alright.

That mower is still running - it ended up having a bunch of water in the tank like the other mower that she has. We set up some saw horses and I supervised while she cleaned them out good. Fresh fuel in the first and some 32:1 in the Lawn Boy and they both run good.

I'm trying to get her to buy an electric (either plug in or battery) mower since her yard is tiny. No fuel/oil to store worry about, less maintenance and so on.
Why would you encourage her to spend more money if she has a working mower? Mix the fuel and worse case keep some HEAT on hand to help deal with moisture should it happen again.

Just my $0.02
 
2stroke LBs have a following and is atop of the line for about 1988. It looks to be great shape too. You could sell it and get enough to buy a battery powered mower
 
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