Quality ammeter.

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Jun 5, 2003
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Apple Valley, California
Who makes a good ammeter? One you clamp on a wire(ac voltage) and it reads the amps? My HF one is ok but it varies depending on where the wire is located between the clamps.

Fluke? Anyone else?
 
I have had good luck with a standard Ideal clamp/meter as DYIer and maintance guy at a mid size printer. Not in the league as Fluke, but I don't want/need that tier of quality for what I use it for.

 
Who makes a good ammeter? One you clamp on a wire(ac voltage) and it reads the amps? My HF one is ok but it varies depending on where the wire is located between the clamps.

Fluke? Anyone else?
Klein, Triplett, Amprobe. Fluke makes them in all price ranges.

You don't need pro quality. You aren't climbing HV towers, are you? (LOL) :unsure::devilish:
 
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I have a Fluke 23 [I think that is the model] since 1985 and it was used at work until I retired in 2,000 and it still works. The worst thing about buying quality is the cost .
 
Fluke clamp-ons were what we used in the Navy, and also what the company I work for now uses. There’s certainly other good ones, but as always you get what you pay for. There’s no “good” $20 ammeter.
I agree that you need a reasonable value for money! I usually buy on Amazon, test and draw conclusions!
 
If you want to use it on a car, make sure it actually reads DC with the clamp.
A lot of them don't, you have to use the probes, which ist often not helpful for - let's say a starter (or almost anything on a car).

Also what makes an ammeter meter "good"?
In my book, there is rather "good enough", since for the occasional measuring of some stuff on my car, a halfway decent reading within a certain tolerance is more than good enough. I don't run an electric lab where I need absolute precision down to a milliamp.
So when it comes to ROI - probably the cheapest Amazon meter will do the trick for me - your mileage may vary though.
 
I have a Fluke 325 and its really accurate. Bought it for DC current accuracy. Cheaper ones will do fine for AC but not DC or small DC currents.
 
I had an Ex-Tech clamp amp meter and below 20-30 amps AC it was almost useless. The low end DC readings weren’t good either. I ended up with a high end Fluke. You can also get an AC/DC amp clamp attachment from Fluke that also works well. I have a 10A AC clamp from AMEC I use for checking loads on small 480 and 120v equipment. Accurate and not real pricy.
 
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Field Piece makes good quality meters. Much less expensive than Fluke. I sold thousands of their products in my supply stores. They held up well for technicians use every day.
 
I have a Fluke 325 and its really accurate. Bought it for DC current accuracy. Cheaper ones will do fine for AC but not DC or small DC currents.
Can you confirm how small a value the 325 will read in DC?
 
I had an Ex-Tech clamp amp meter and below 20-30 amps AC it was almost useless. The low end DC readings weren’t good either. I ended up with a high end Fluke. You can also get an AC/DC amp clamp attachment from Fluke that also works well. I have a 10A AC clamp from AMEC I use for checking loads on small 480 and 120v equipment. Accurate and not real pricy.
I validated my extech with a wired in series fluke meter. They were both reading the same. You need to make sure a clamp is designed for the right range. My mA dc extech is very accurate assuming you can get a good zero. That’s the biggest issue with dc clamp meters in tight spaces.
 
Can you confirm how small a value the 325 will read in DC?
I think as low as 10mA. I've used it to detect parasitic draw in one car with success. It's very accurate. Friend has one of the cheaper brands and it was reading wild and all over. For AC, his was pretty accurate for the price but for DC kind of useless. Can't recall the brand but he bought it at HW store.
 
Out of curiosity, What % of reading variation did you see when moving the wire and what current were you measuring?

I just bought a Fluke 325, after messing around with a cheap Sperry from Menards for several years. The Sperry was fine for rough checks of DC current. I didn't expect much and never really trusted it. The other source of variation is making sure the jaws are together properly before zeroing and while measuring. The Fluke seems to have better fitting jaws. Just like torque wrenches, there is no such thing as super accuracy when trying to measure down in the mA range with a clamp designed for 400A. The 325 will measure down to 0.010 Adc at +/- 2% +/- 5 digits which is fine for my use. How accurate do you need it to be is the big question. If you're consistently down in the mA range and want accuracy, wire in a series ammeter, precision shunt, or get a clamp designed for accuracy at low currents. You'll notice they have much smaller jaws and cost more.

Just for ref. my Fluke 177 DVM will measure DC current down to +/- 1% + 3 digits

I'll have to mess around with the 325 and see how much variation I get from moving the wire around in the clamp, real world applications may prevent having it centered in the jaws.
 
Out of curiosity, What % of reading variation did you see when moving the wire and what current were you measuring?

I just bought a Fluke 325, after messing around with a cheap Sperry from Menards for several years. The Sperry was fine for rough checks of DC current. I didn't expect much and never really trusted it. The other source of variation is making sure the jaws are together properly before zeroing and while measuring. The Fluke seems to have better fitting jaws. Just like torque wrenches, there is no such thing as super accuracy when trying to measure down in the mA range with a clamp designed for 400A. The 325 will measure down to 0.010 Adc at +/- 2% +/- 5 digits which is fine for my use. How accurate do you need it to be is the big question. If you're consistently down in the mA range and want accuracy, wire in a series ammeter, precision shunt, or get a clamp designed for accuracy at low currents. You'll notice they have much smaller jaws and cost more.

Just for ref. my Fluke 177 DVM will measure DC current down to +/- 1% + 3 digits

I'll have to mess around with the 325 and see how much variation I get from moving the wire around in the clamp, real world applications may prevent having it centered in the jaws.
It depends upon local magnetic fields. And where you zero it for dc, and how consistently you zero it.

Unfortunately it’s hard to answer as a result. Could be quite a bit.
 
worked for years in hospital maintenance,found fluke is the only good one,at home i bought a south-wire thats cheap in price,,around 50 dollars ,gets the job done with the stuff here,,got this at menards
 
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