Quaker State 4x4 blend vs full synthetic...

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Hey,

I'm a new vehicle owner (07 Toyota Tacoma) and I'm looking at my first oil change soon so I'm doing a bit of research.

In the past I've always used the normal Quaker State stuff that comes in the green bottle, but with this new truck I'm looking at using a synthetic of some sort, but the more I learn the more questions I have...

I guess what I'm wondering is is the 4x4 blend legit, or is it a marketing ploy?

Would I be better off using a full synthetic?

Where does Quaker State fit into the oil quality food chain?


I don't know if this makes a difference or not, but the truck is a 4L V6 4x4 and will be used in a dusty summer climate and an extremely cold winter climate. The truck is a dialy driver that will see light off-road and towing activity. One of the things that's really appealing about synthetic is the low temp flow rate...

Thanks.
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WELCOME!!:)

Quaker State is an average oil. Not bad, but not the best...Terry Dyson here likes it, so that right there means it's not too bad.

For towing and really cold temps, a synthetic would be your best bet.

Does that engine spec 5W-20 or 5w30? Anyways...

I would recommend Pennzoil Platinum, especially if you find it on sale(frequently BOGO at Advance Auto Parts). Otherwise, Amsoil (if you want to get pricey), Mobil 1 0W-20/30, or the QS Torque Power would all be good choices.

And don't forget to use a good filter(stay away from Fram!). Use Wix/Napa Gold filters, Purolator PureOne, K&N, Amsoil, Mobil 1...these are all good for extended oil change intervals.

Also, run one of the aforementioned oils and filters for 5,000mi, and get a Used Oil Analysis done from one of our sponsors, like Blackstone. This will let you know how your engine is doing as well as how long you can go on one brand of oil...

Nice truck, BTW:)
 
It is legit. It's a Group II and III blend, like most other blends are. It has a good additive package, and has served well for many years.

Me personally, I would use full synthetic. Why go half way on such a nice truck.

And as said above,
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I'll buck the trend here & say that unless the truck is going to be used in temps of -20°F or colder, I'd stick with a conventional 5W20 or 5w30, depending on Toyota's recommendation. Conventional oil will generally be priced lower than syn-blends (Motorcraft being an exception), and conventional oil will protect your Toyota engine perfectly.

As far as filters go, the Toyota OEM oil filter is a good choice, with Purolator, Bosch, Wix, and Motorcraft all being good non-OEM options.

I miss my old '99 Tacoma Pre-Runner. I loved that truck. I still see it around town. The guy who bought it from me in '01 loves it.
 
QS QTorque Power is the best of the Quaker State group. That's what I purchased to replace my Mobil 1. Same price as the Platinum at places like ChinaMart.

I won't buy manufacturers synblends because they do not put the synthetic percentages on the label. You may be getting as little as 10% when supplies are low -- but not likely exceeding 25% synthetic when supplies are normal. So odds are, most synthetic blends are at or near minimum levels. You are better off to blend your own at home - at a 66% dino-34% synthetic rate for almost the same price.
 
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I'd go with a true synthetic like amsoil and change once a year.




And mess with the 5 year 60000 mile warrenty....
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Change your oil every 5k or 6 mo PER TOYOTAS requirements with any SM oil and you'll be fine.

Since we don't know where you live (it should a requirement so we can assist) , I'll tell you that I've run conventional oil in my 1.8l Corolla engine for hours on end in 120+ degree deserts, well below zero temps and the used oil analysis come back fine. All on under a buck oil.

Take care, Bill
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PS:
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I'll buck the trend here & say that unless the truck is going to be used in temps of -20°F or colder, I'd stick with a conventional 5W20 or 5w30, depending on Toyota's recommendation.




It was -48C (-54F) here about a month ago...

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I'd go with a true synthetic like amsoil and change once a year.




Although I can't do that due to voiding the warantyI'd like to know more about this Amsoil? I've never heard of it before I started doing some research today and it seems to be highly regarded. What makes it so special?

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Since we don't know where you live (it should a requirement so we can assist) , I'll tell you that I've run conventional oil in my 1.8l Corolla engine for hours on end in 120+ degree deserts, well below zero temps and the used oil analysis come back fine. All on under a buck oil.




Manitoba, Canada.
 
S.Taco,

Check your manual again for recommendation on colder ambient temperatures. In winter you may be able to run 5W20 and summer 5w30. I'm surprised W30 is recommended on a newish engine.

Definitely, consider synthetic for cold start. That said I can't see paying a lot for it.

If you run a 5W20 (like I do on 2005 Ford V6) I prefer synthetic for better sheer stability. On a 5W30 I'm not so concerned about sheer stability and MC blend looks like a good deal at walmart.

I also like the PP (Shell Helix Ultra basestock)and Q-Torque synthetic (may be same or Conoco). They have been runing $2/qt deals. BTW, Castrol Syntec is the Shell HXVI basestock also from my readings but I don't see it for less than $4 which is right at my limit for synthetic.
 
As far as price goes, if you are an Amsoil preferred customer, the product is not much more expensive than you will pay for off the shelf products such as Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil 1... Do some research on everything before making your decision.. But you will not go wrong with the Quaker State products either..
 
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S.Taco,

Check your manual again for recommendation on colder ambient temperatures. In winter you may be able to run 5W20 and summer 5w30. I'm surprised W30 is recommended on a newish engine.




Pg. 366,

2.7L I4 - 5w20 or 0w20 (all temp ranges)

4.0L V6 - 5w30 (all temp ranges)

I have the V6.
 
Get some GC 0w30 it will take all ticks away from that 4L v6, its kinda thick Gold or Green if you can find it, id break it in first. Just put some in my Tundra and all ticks are gone.
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I forgot thats the Green GC I got 13 bottles at AZ some were green 04 stock got 6 of them the rest were MO6 gold stuff. I cant edit I also have no clue how to add to favorites so can get E mail updates, could someone PM me on how to do it thanks.
 
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S.Taco,

Check your manual again for recommendation on colder ambient temperatures. In winter you may be able to run 5W20 and summer 5w30. I'm surprised W30 is recommended on a newish engine.

Definitely, consider synthetic for cold start. That said I can't see paying a lot for it.

If you run a 5W20 (like I do on 2005 Ford V6) I prefer synthetic for better sheer stability. On a 5W30 I'm not so concerned about sheer stability and MC blend looks like a good deal at walmart.

I also like the PP (Shell Helix Ultra basestock)and Q-Torque synthetic (may be same or Conoco). They have been runing $2/qt deals. BTW, Castrol Syntec is the Shell HXVI basestock also from my readings but I don't see it for less than $4 which is right at my limit for synthetic.


 
I tried to ask the idiot shell guy at the rotella forum about helix, as it is not marketed in the US under that name.I thought perhaps rotella 5w-40 was related to the highly regarded european helix line. I see you find syntec Euro is related to helix. Where did this information come from?
 
At one time Castrol was using the Shell XHVI base stock for their USA Syntec. That's as close as it ever came to Helix. They do not use that base stock any more.
 
hi , i,ve been using the quaker state synthetic 5w30 during winter in sask. seems to flow well at -30 or so and i buy it at canadian tire for about $30 - 4 litre.
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