Q about 200k mi. issue on Odyssey

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As for what I've done since then:

1. I got a small hesitation at Idle late February and did a full Intake system cleaning (by hand, not with any magic additives - those don't work).
This includes replacing the EGR valve, MAP sensor, & IACV.
All intake gaskets were replaced.
I installed an OCC from Elite Engineering. (really nice piece!)


2. Since I had great access to the heads, I did the second valve adjustment 80k mi. after the first one.
New NGK spark plugs (factory).
All new rubber gaskets on Valve covers. (old ones too hard now)

Here are a couple of pics from the inside of the engine. There are no scratches or anything from what I can see on the cams, and even though the rear bank is the "outlet" side of the PCV system, the crud is only superficial and all the moving parts are really clean.

Here is the clean side Valve cover:


Full view of the clean side Cams:


Up close at some of the rocker arms and valve springs on the clean side:


Here's a pic showing the difference between clean and dirty side Valve covers:


Dirty Side intake cam:


Up close at some of the rockers and valve springs on the dirty side:
 
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Ok, now for some of my observations running the 5w-20 PYB for 5k miles.

1. The oil consumption is way higher.
I've already gone through 1.5 quarts in 5k miles. with only about ~4oz. is through the PCV and my OCC. If I would have to guess, it's because it's a little bit on the thinner side of 5w-20, and that it's packing the oil rings much more significantly than GTX did. The higher NOACK is probably not helping.

The previous poster who said it was the oil rings nailed it. I can counteract this by bouncing the engine off the 5k rpm park-rev-limiter for a few seconds and it usually free's up the rings. Alternatively, you can use your equivalent Italian tune-up method of choice.

This works for 1.5 weeks, and then it gradually starts to burn oil & I have to do it every other weekend for a consumption of ~0.05-0.1 quarts. If I don't do that, it will eat 0.5 quarts by the third weekend. I'vealso notice the exhaust tip get's sooty from the oil clogging the cats.

2. There's no difference in how the engine works or sounds.
I read that some people thought their cars worked more quiet using SOPUS and Pennzoil oils. I have fairly good hearing and am in-tune with my engine and I see no difference. Obviously fresh oil runs much more smoothly than when the car's due for a change, but I'm seeing the exact same noise output throughout the full 7.5k mi. OCI

3. Finally, I haven't changed my OCI, nor am I going to stupidly move to a non-Mfr. approved oil weight.
That's just basically telling Honda, who spent Millions of $$ to develop the motor - that you know better then their R&D labs. You guys can do whatever you like, but personally the way I see it is that if you have to use a heavier oil, then it means you've already caused the motor enough damage through lack of maintenance, that you have to start down the slippery slope of engine failure by using heavier and heavier oils than what is needed to properly lubricate the motor.

4. The only thing I will change is to move to PP or PUP on my RDX.
It's another MPI J35 with the same cylinder block & piston architecture, so I'm betting the oil ring issue is still there but won't show up until ~50k miles. From what I know, PP should hold the space between the piston and cylinder walls more clean, and I'm hoping that means less oil ring packing.
 
To the OP,

How is the cooling system? How have you maintained it? This is just a thought, and I could be completely wrong, but, if the cooling system has not been well maintained there could be a layer of build up that is hampering heat transfer. The engine could be running a little hotter than before with the Castrol SM. Perhaps the Castrol SN is oxidizing faster due to hotter engine components?
 
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Originally Posted By: njohnson
To the OP,

How is the cooling system? How have you maintained it? This is just a thought, and I could be completely wrong, but, if the cooling system has not been well maintained there could be a layer of build up that is hampering heat transfer. The engine could be running a little hotter than before with the Castrol SM. Perhaps the Castrol SN is oxidizing faster due to hotter engine components?


The cooling system is in mint condition. It was completely flushed clean of the existing OEM coolant and refilled with the correct non-corrosive coolant when I did the timing belt/water pump at 170k. New Thermostat as well.

And FYI, you are almost correct. However, any kind of "buildup" in the cooling system would cause immediate overheating issues considering that the dinky aluminum radiator in the Odyssey barely has much flow capacity in the first place.
 
I'm surprised by those pics quite honestly. I thought it would be worse. I've seen VCM equipped J35s that ran synthetic for 6-7K intervals that looked worse than yours.
 
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