PYB vs. QSUD Cost Per Mile Comparison

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Perhaps this has been done before - I'm using current WM prices for 5 qrt jugs of SOPUS products as a comparison.

PYB $14.00 versus QSUD $19.00 with a 5,000 OCI :

PYB $14.00 divided by 5000 = $0.0028 per mile
QSUD $19.00 divided by 5000 = $0.0038 per mile

If you extend the QSUD out to a more normal synthetic OCI of 7500 miles, the price per mile drops to $0.0025 (less than PYB !).
* Kind of makes me wonder why I spent time comparing sales price of PYB and QSUD when I go to WM (other than I'm a BITOG).
 
You do not understand the math . Syn oil should be run twice as long as dino oil all things equal. Otherwise the syn oil will be of little advantage unless the extremes are encountered.
 
I tried to use the modern 5,000 mile dino OCI for a comparison . Based on your comments , let's see the comparison for PYB at 3750 mile OCI recommended by many owners manuals :

$14.00 divided by 3750 miles = $0.0037 per mile .
QSUD for a 5000 mile OCI = $0.0038 per mile and at it's "normal" 7500 OCI = $0.0025 per mile . What am I missing here ? QSUD is a deal at $19.00 and a dino oil may need to be less than $2.00 per qrt. to effectively be a deal any more ... Otherwise why wouldn't you just use QSUD (unless you enjoy changing oil more frequently) ?
 
Then you should be running Mobil 1 EP for 20,000 miles if this is the only thing that matters (ie cost per mile)

$29.97 (if you use 5 quarts per oil change) divided by 20,000 miles = .00149!

Let us know how that works for you.... I mean less oil changes, lower cost per mile and everything "should" be fine!

Bill

PS: Long thread on this not too long ago....
 
20,000 miles is a bit too long of an OCI for me . My main point is that using a synthetic is not all that expensive when you get right down to it . My 2nd point is I like those Dino prices down around < $11.50 per 5 qrts. to be cost effective . Lastly , MC syn blend and PYB are good oils - but are they good buys at $14.00 per 5 qrts. or is QSUD a better buy at $19.00 ? New 2011 considerations : QSAD SN for $10.00 , MC Super 5000 SN for $11.50 by pass MC syn blend & PYB (too expensive at $14.00) and go straight to QSUD for $19.00 . Let's hear your counter logic other than "I like the color of the bottle - so I'll pay more". Wer'e talking SN rated here ...
 
Who cares?
Either way, the cost per mile is vanishingly small.
We could also get into a long thread in which we debate whether the QSUD is really synthetic, but once again, who cares anymore?
Either oil will work well for most of us for the OCIs most of us use, and neither oil will hurt our household budgets.
Heck, many of us probably spend more making dinner than we spend for an oil change.
 
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
20,000 miles is a bit too long of an OCI for me . My main point is that using a synthetic is not all that expensive when you get right down to it . My 2nd point is I like those Dino prices down around < $11.50 per 5 qrts. to be cost effective . Lastly , MC syn blend and PYB are good oils - but are they good buys at $14.00 per 5 qrts. or is QSUD a better buy at $19.00 ? New 2011 considerations : QSAD SN for $10.00 , MC Super 5000 SN for $11.50 by pass MC syn blend & PYB (too expensive at $14.00) and go straight to QSUD for $19.00 . Let's hear your counter logic other than "I like the color of the bottle - so I'll pay more". Wer'e talking SN rated here ...


you get QS for $10? its $12 here
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fdcg27 : Yes , Ohio ... If only Mobil 1 silver jugs came with a scarlet colored top and a horse shoe shaped handle ... Maybe include an offer to buy a slightly used bowl ring cheap . Relax -just having a little fun comparing oil prices versus the perceived benefits over the course of an OCI ... it's all good .
 
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
20,000 miles is a bit too long of an OCI for me . My main point is that using a synthetic is not all that expensive when you get right down to it . My 2nd point is I like those Dino prices down around < $11.50 per 5 qrts. to be cost effective . Lastly , MC syn blend and PYB are good oils - but are they good buys at $14.00 per 5 qrts. or is QSUD a better buy at $19.00 ? New 2011 considerations : QSAD SN for $10.00 , MC Super 5000 SN for $11.50 by pass MC syn blend & PYB (too expensive at $14.00) and go straight to QSUD for $19.00 . Let's hear your counter logic other than "I like the color of the bottle - so I'll pay more". Wer'e talking SN rated here ...


You are not getting it. IF you are going to use the cost per mile then you should do the Mobil EP since its the lowest.

The PROBLEM is some vehicles can NOT go 7500 miles on a oil change. So for people or vehicles that do not why waste the extra $7 (or whatever it is) for the "better" oil? (which for most engines is not)

More vehicles go down the road for hundreds of thousands of miles going with bulk oil with no problems. Since you brought up the cost per mile then we know what oil you need to go with.

Understand NEED vs WANT. Most engines NEED oil. Check in the manual for what type and weight. Also OCI.

Bill
 
Good points Bill ... I'm probably guilty of generalizing too much and trying to build a case why QSUD isn't used more by folks running dino. Taking the high road - Any dino or synthetic SN rated oils will perhaps be the best blends we've ever seen .
 
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
Good points Bill ... I'm probably guilty of generalizing too much and trying to build a case why QSUD isn't used more by folks running dino. Taking the high road - Any dino or synthetic SN rated oils will perhaps be the best blends we've ever seen .


My point is if a vehicle can make 200k, 300k and beyond with yesterday's conventional (and many do) then with today's excellent oils (oil DID become better IMO with API SL and has continued) then why do anything else but what is NEEDED?

And you are correct with that most oils are blends. They have "dumbed" down syn (group III is not a "true" syn) and all the conventional oils are close to syn. But more important is what the TOTAL package is. Most get hung up on the base oil which IMO is wrong. Get hung up with the package.

Luckily for us these days most oils are excellent performers for the recommended OCI. And today's engines are just amazing with their performance and durability. (if you avoid some of the still in beta test motors)

Biggest thing that gets me are all the dumb "tests" that oil company's claim to show that their oil is the "best". Most of those tests are one thing...

Pure marketing for the sheepeople...
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Bill : Not to get off topic (or perhaps more on topic !) - but what do you believe are the most important categories to look for in evaluating a TOTAL package of any particular oil ?
 
PYB at $14 is too high. I haven't bought a dino jug at WM for more than $11.88 in the past 4 years. Most were $10.88 (VWB). They go on sale often enough.

If you stretch out your syn OCI, it can make sense cost wise.
 
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
Bill : Not to get off topic (or perhaps more on topic !) - but what do you believe are the most important categories to look for in evaluating a TOTAL package of any particular oil ?


Pretty well anything API SL/SM/SN rated and meets the MFG of the engines recommendation. For me that's really all I look for and have looked for.

There is a lab in Salt Lake that used to have Corolla's and everyone went well into the 300k with bulk oil and if luckily 7000-8000 OCIs. Beat to heck and yet other than drivers seats failing they were still running well when they replaced them with mostly HHR vehicles. Now those are well into 100k and the engines are just doing great using the OLM and bulk oil. I doubt they will make it BODY wise up to 300k without some serious $$ since they are having issues already.

Point is really today you can go with (in most vehicles. Force fed, DI and other known problem children need not apply) whatever is the best value and get on with it. I'm also a big believer that you do NOT need to stick with one brand for the life of the vehicle. Does it hurt? No but it does not matter IMO (it does to the oil company)

Notice that most companies state no other oil does x, protects better and keeps engines cleaner than any other oil? And for the most part they are correct because they all are excellent oils. The difference between the "worst" and "best" is nil in name brand oils.

So if I can get brand "x" for $$ less than brand "y" then I'm stocking up with brand "x". And then after I run low on brand "x" if brand "o" is cheaper then that is what I'm going to get. Been doing that for decades (though through the 90s I ran pretty well Valvoline/Halvoline since they were always on sale) and sadly I put on the miles on vehicles. Then I sell them to friends and family and get to watch them continue with excellent performance and last long.
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While I do extend my OCI past the recommended OCI I have verified the oils that I use via UOAs and still going great at almost 200k in my main vehicle. But I'd NEVER recommend going past the recommended OCI to anyone other. Why? Because I can not sleep well knowing that I may have given poor advice based on marketing or something not proven.

You never see any manufacture stating that if you use conventional the OCI is x miles but if you use syn bump up the OCI to y miles. Reason? Because syn does not remove the byproducts of combustion and water that running an engine produces. The only way to get rid of that is to CHANGE the oil. And most MFG do have a severe (lower) OCI schedule which many people DO fall under.

Bottom line, can not go by lowest cost per mile to determine what oil to use for most vehicles. If we did then the EP for 20k is the ticket.

Bill

PS: I'm with you, I'd NEVER do a 20k OCI in my main vehicle. And it sees 90%+ adult highway use.
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
Good points Bill ... I'm probably guilty of generalizing too much and trying to build a case why QSUD isn't used more by folks running dino. Taking the high road - Any dino or synthetic SN rated oils will perhaps be the best blends we've ever seen .


My point is if a vehicle can make 200k, 300k and beyond with yesterday's conventional (and many do) then with today's excellent oils (oil DID become better IMO with API SL and has continued) then why do anything else but what is NEEDED?

And you are correct with that most oils are blends. They have "dumbed" down syn (group III is not a "true" syn) and all the conventional oils are close to syn. But more important is what the TOTAL package is. Most get hung up on the base oil which IMO is wrong. Get hung up with the package.

Luckily for us these days most oils are excellent performers for the recommended OCI. And today's engines are just amazing with their performance and durability. (if you avoid some of the still in beta test motors)

Biggest thing that gets me are all the dumb "tests" that oil company's claim to show that their oil is the "best". Most of those tests are one thing...

Pure marketing for the sheepeople...
20.gif
06.gif



100% agree. I think that synthetic oil has its place and is "better" in a few aspects, but better is a relative thing. In sub-zero temperatures and insanely hot/humid regions it may offer slightly better protection.

For majority of users/drivers a conventional oil has proven that on time oil changes are as important if not more important than the type of oil you use. I've been using conventional this "winter" much to the surprise of my friends who think my engine is going to explode. Not one issue with a rough start or negative impact as of yet. Only bad thing is my OLM is at 18% and I need it to last me until it warms up a bit in march lol. I think I changed it to early in October :| lol
 
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Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
Perhaps this has been done before - I'm using current WM prices for 5 qrt jugs of SOPUS products as a comparison.

PYB $14.00 versus QSUD $19.00 with a 5,000 OCI :

PYB $14.00 divided by 5000 = $0.0028 per mile
QSUD $19.00 divided by 5000 = $0.0038 per mile

If you extend the QSUD out to a more normal synthetic OCI of 7500 miles, the price per mile drops to $0.0025 (less than PYB !).
* Kind of makes me wonder why I spent time comparing sales price of PYB and QSUD when I go to WM (other than I'm a BITOG).


I think it's a fair question. If the price difference is insignificant why not buy the one which can protect more during an emergency. Cheap insurance.
 
"You never see any manufacture stating that if you use conventional the OCI is x miles but if you use syn bump up the OCI to y miles. Reason? Because syn does not remove the byproducts of combustion and water that running an engine produces. The only way to get rid of that is to CHANGE the oil. And most MFG do have a severe (lower) OCI schedule which many people DO fall under ".

Good points on above Bill ...perhaps taking a synthetic filled vehicle out for a good highway drive once a month would remove the water - not sure about other byproducts though ...
 
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