Thanks for all of the answers everyone, good discussions.
I just happen to run across this the other day...
I just happen to run across this the other day...
Putting the squeeze on brake calipers
- Thread starter AJB0009
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They make a tool to compress calipers. It costs less than $20. When you compress the calipers the oil will rise but it should go back to the full mark. You should not have to worry about the reservoir being overfilled as it should not be added to as the level falls. The level falls and indicates level of pad wear do not fill it. If you need to change the oil before the pads being changed you fill it to the level taken out.
Typically you will bleed the brakes by opening up the bleed screw after the pads are installed. You can also exchange quite a bit of fluid by doing this. Make sure you don't allow the level in the reservoir to fall too much. Get all the air out.
Typically you will bleed the brakes by opening up the bleed screw after the pads are installed. You can also exchange quite a bit of fluid by doing this. Make sure you don't allow the level in the reservoir to fall too much. Get all the air out.
There's been a few times where I had to use a c-clamp to start the "push" but I just pop the top off the fluid reservoir and push the pistons in by hand whenever possible.
If they're super dirty I just wipe them down with a clean rag - but that's very rare that I do.
If they're super dirty I just wipe them down with a clean rag - but that's very rare that I do.
If you open the bleeder (and don't snap it) is there anyway you can get air in the system assuming reservoir has ample brake fluid and no one touches the pedal?
Air can enter from the threads or a poor seal on the tubing. That’s what you are probably seeing when you watch most of the how to vids on YouTube.
As long as you don’t have a vacuum in the master cylinder, you shouldn’t get any air entering the brake line from the bleeder.
Make sure your tubing is on tight, use a zip tie. I use the real gravity method to bleed brakes: keep the drain bottle and tubing above the bleeder, the bleeder should only be opened about 1/4 turn. Any air entering from the threads or seal should flow into the bottle. Works for me. Ymmv.
As long as you don’t have a vacuum in the master cylinder, you shouldn’t get any air entering the brake line from the bleeder.
Make sure your tubing is on tight, use a zip tie. I use the real gravity method to bleed brakes: keep the drain bottle and tubing above the bleeder, the bleeder should only be opened about 1/4 turn. Any air entering from the threads or seal should flow into the bottle. Works for me. Ymmv.
I came up with a new trick. If you are working on a vehicle with leaf spring (my pickup) put a loose nylon wire tie around the leaf spring to hang the S hook to hold the caliper. Trying to hang the S hook on the leaf spring is problematic, has a tendency to fall or wiggle off.
Also if you are going to use an impact wrench on the caliper bracket then do so before taking off the caliper. Once you take off the caliper its now in your way. Not saying to remove the bolts holding on the caliper bracket just loosen with impact. Obviously if not in rust belt and normal wrench will do then no need.
Also if you are going to use an impact wrench on the caliper bracket then do so before taking off the caliper. Once you take off the caliper its now in your way. Not saying to remove the bolts holding on the caliper bracket just loosen with impact. Obviously if not in rust belt and normal wrench will do then no need.
My old boss at the body shop years ago had those. I used to borrow them when I did a brake job but forgot over the years how well they work. My Mustang requires the type that screws the piston in since it has the e-brake in the caliper on the back.
I just did the first brake job on our 2015 Odyssey - rear pads and rotors. FWIW Honda's factory manual just calls for pushing the piston back in with the tool (I have one of those $20 sets from Amazon with a couple dozen adapters) and making sure the reservoir doesn't overflow. Nothing about bleeding, the ABS system, etc.
jeff
jeff
So, from the “Better late than Never” file:
I always clean the rubber boots before I compress them back.
I use a clean rag to wipe off the initial debris. After that, I liberally smear a little Sil-glyde silicone brake grease around the circumference of the boot, then remove the excess with a clean rag. I find it does a good job of not only cleaning the boots, but preserving them as well....just saying!
Open reservoir cap. And use c clamp to force piston back into the caliper.
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