pros and cons of this type of jackstand

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JHZR2

JHZR2

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Hi,

After reading about some deaths due to raising cars, it just verifies that more redundant safeties are far better than less - like we didnt know that already.

Anyway, I found some pin-type (want that positive verification, as some of the ratchet type seem to have been part of the issue in some of the cases) made in USA by Norco. They look like this:

81205.jpg


What are the pros and cons of using this type of a stand on a pinch weld, subframe mount or a unibody "boxed out" section underneath? For example, my 300CD looks like the pictures in the first post here:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=206015

Good or bad?

Thanks!
 
Those pictures make me a little nervous, especially the first one. Looks like the car could slide or tip sideways off. If I were LIFTING the car I'd put my round jack saddle under that subframe bolt then put the stands somewhere else.

Those stands you show look good for something like a truck with flat frame rail bottom. I hate resting those on stands with a deep "v" like these...

P11607279.jpg



... as the weight always seems to be more on one side of the V than the other.
 
But what about unibody cars, especially if ther eis no pinch weld available?

The issue with the V type is that they end up damaging whatever they touch. If the cars are coated underneath (like my w123 MB cars), then these pinch spots are sources of damage to the coating and cause rust to start.

As flat a contact patch as possible is desirable.

Plus I want a pin-type, no ratchets, so that function is guaranteed via positive engagement versus a ratchet that could disengage.
 
I don't think a ratchet could disengage when there's weight on it, jamming it together.

What worries me is of the four legs of a jackstand pressing on concrete, the weight should be distributed evenly. Those stands would probably do well with your integrated front "frame rail" on your w123s.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Hi,


81205.jpg


What are the pros and cons of using this type of a stand on a pinch weld, subframe mount or a unibody "boxed out" section underneath? For example, my 300CD looks like the pictures in the first post here:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=206015

Good or bad?

Thanks!



Those types of jacks have been around for a long time. I trust them more than the ratchet style because they are made from extruded steel, and not cast steel. I have used similar stands for holding up a Honda Accord. I just placed a 2x4 on top so the metal body dug into the wood. I never had a problem. I only jacked up one part of the car, never all 4 points. When I had to jack up the entire car I used stacks of wood that I got from an industrial building site.
 
Ive been using the V style of jack stands for years, they work, but they definetaly cause damage to the pinch welds. Ive always wondered of ways to stop the damage, how would using a 2x4 wood keep the car stable?
Othen than using the pinch welds, where can I place a floor jack to lift my nissan versa from the front and back? Thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
I don't think a ratchet could disengage when there's weight on it, jamming it together.

What worries me is of the four legs of a jackstand pressing on concrete, the weight should be distributed evenly. Those stands would probably do well with your integrated front "frame rail" on your w123s.


The post I linked to in the other "caged creeper" thread indicated that it was the release of a ratchet that caused the death.

I like the idea of positive engagement all the same... And I NEED to be able to lift my cars, all different types, without causing damage yet being quite safe.
 
I like to customize the jack-stand to my particular car, for our VW that required welding some extra steel, to better support and locate around the pinch weld.
You'll never get 'one type fit's all' without some compromise.
 
Originally Posted By: Loobed
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Hi,


81205.jpg


What are the pros and cons of using this type of a stand on a pinch weld, subframe mount or a unibody "boxed out" section underneath? For example, my 300CD looks like the pictures in the first post here:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=206015

Good or bad?

Thanks!



Those types of jacks have been around for a long time. I trust them more than the ratchet style because they are made from extruded steel, and not cast steel. I have used similar stands for holding up a Honda Accord. I just placed a 2x4 on top so the metal body dug into the wood. I never had a problem. I only jacked up one part of the car, never all 4 points. When I had to jack up the entire car I used stacks of wood that I got from an industrial building site.


I do not agree with using wood between a jack stand and a car for the obvious reason that the would can splinter, split and drop the car. Comments?
 
I'm not a big fan of the "cotter pin" type jackstands- I prefer the ratcheting type (like the silver ones in the second post, but without the deep "V" tops). I've seen the cotter pin type start to deform the stamped steel oles that the pin goes through... not good. The ratcheting ones are really beefy and aren't going to bend or break.
 
Originally Posted By: TomYoung

I do not agree with using wood between a jack stand and a car for the obvious reason that the would can splinter, split and drop the car. Comments?


I don't agree with using 1x or 2x planks, as I have personally done this and had them split. I do agree with using plywood, however.
 
I always add a jack stand under the frame or sub-frame as a precaution but still keep the weight on the jack itself.

I'm usually raising / lowering the car and stick the stand underneaths for extra safety before getting under the car.

I say it doesn't matter what type you use, its all preference really, as long as you don't exceed the capacity.
 
Originally Posted By: TomYoung
Originally Posted By: Loobed
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Hi,


81205.jpg


What are the pros and cons of using this type of a stand on a pinch weld, subframe mount or a unibody "boxed out" section underneath? For example, my 300CD looks like the pictures in the first post here:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=206015

Good or bad?

Thanks!



Those types of jacks have been around for a long time. I trust them more than the ratchet style because they are made from extruded steel, and not cast steel. I have used similar stands for holding up a Honda Accord. I just placed a 2x4 on top so the metal body dug into the wood. I never had a problem. I only jacked up one part of the car, never all 4 points. When I had to jack up the entire car I used stacks of wood that I got from an industrial building site.


I do not agree with using wood between a jack stand and a car for the obvious reason that the would can splinter, split and drop the car. Comments?


I had a wooden block that I was using as a stand split one time. I'll never rely on such a thing again.
 
Artem, I do your method on occasion. But, I'm thinking that it is probably safer to have the weight on the jack stand, with the jack as a back up. This way, you know the jack stands are secure.

With your method, if the jack should blow out, the vehicle might not be secure as it comes to rest on the stand and topple off....worse case scenario.

After reading that accident story, I realize how lax I have become about being paranoid underneath a vehicle. You just never know when all the factors will "line up" to result in an accident.

In the mean time, we drive our vehicles everyday, with much less control of our fate.
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
I always add a jack stand under the frame or sub-frame as a precaution but still keep the weight on the jack itself.

I'm usually raising / lowering the car and stick the stand underneaths for extra safety before getting under the car.

I say it doesn't matter what type you use, its all preference really, as long as you don't exceed the capacity.


Ive done this before but fear for the shock load on the stand - it may not be designed for that and shear something.

I wont go under when I am doing something like that. Only from the sides where there is a redundant support. It scares me to go under with the jack. Maybe if the tires are on it would be OK, but I still wouldnt chance it.
 
I shudder to think of all the time I spent under cars with the $3/each jackstands I bought in 1971. These were the pin-type where the center tubing is split to form the three legs, which were tied together by steel strap. All on a gravel driveway, with no one around to call in case of accident. They did have a nice wide support surface, though.

The $6 I spent for that pair absorbed a major portion of the budget for the first project I used them on. I was making $1.60/hr at the time.
 
I found these listed on Homedepot for $25 and I picked up a pair since my original jackstands are nearing 15 years old. I figured a second set of stands wouldn't hurt. Amazon lists them for $50, but Home Depot is half the price and they use a pin. They are rated as 3-ton stands, but I need to look at the pin size and the mechanism a little more.
72191dc3-4f85-4a95-9e66-eb0dfcf51b3e_300.jpg



The brand is listed as Maasdam Jackall Pow'r Lift

Model # MPL4124-HD Internet # 202332236 Store SKU # 755397
 
The poly jackstand pads I got for my HF 3-ton jackstands were worth their $10 price for preventing damage to the metal underneath. They also fill in the center of that V so the weight is distributed better.
 
Do they go bad over time if used properly? I've had mine for almost 20 years and they still work fine although I still use the hydraulic jack as a back up all the time.
 
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