Project compressor repair. Next steps?

Joined
Jan 8, 2007
Messages
2,390
Location
TN
I have this project compressor I have been working on. It sat in the sun in AZ probably for years. Everything that is plastic is toast, all the fuel lines some wires etc.
It has a bit of surface rust everywhere. I have not got the engine running yet, should have the parts I need tuesday. I think it's going to run except I'm a little worried about the feed pump because of the diaphragm.

Anyway the compressor itself is locked up hard. I have tried multiple things just to get it to move and it has beat me.
I'm wondering, replacement 2475 compressors can be had for ~1500 bucks. Should I just eat it and order a new one? Or should I try and rebuild this one? Honestly I think it's going to need machine work and a bunch of parts. It's cast iron and I think the rust won.

This is all provided I get the engine running next week, which I think it will. It cranks fine and seems to have good compression.

20221015_144428.jpg

Compressor insides
20221015_145528.jpg

Some junk that was in the compressor oil, there was a lot of debris, the pan was totally clean when I started
20221015_144603.jpg
 
What have you tried to get the compressor to move? Did you take the valves off and see what's going on inside?
 
What have you tried to get the compressor to move? Did you take the valves off and see what's going on inside?
Crowbars and muscle power on the flywheel. Used a breaker bar on the nut.

Took one side off on the top. The reeds look fine, there was some metal flake along the top of the piston where it meets the cylinder.

I'm having a hard time getting the other side off. The fitting is painted shut and I gave up because it's starting to rain.

I can see discoloration along the bottom of the pistons on the cylinder wall. Feels slightly rough but I am not sure if it's just something stuck or the actual cylinder wall. I hope that makes sense.
 
Rod and crank shaft bearings have to be dry. Looks like it has a splash oil system. Overfill the sump with light weight oil to get oil into the bearings. Heads have to come off to lube cylinder walls and rings. Let sit for a few days drairn oil oil out to normal level. See if it will turn. If you get it to run block intake for 15 - 30 seconds that takes the load off the rod bearings see if it knocks that will tell u a lot without pulling everything apart.
 
Rod and crank shaft bearings have to be dry. Looks like it has a splash oil system. Overfill the sump with light weight oil to get oil into the bearings. Heads have to come off to lube cylinder walls and rings. Let sit for a few days drairn oil oil out to normal level. See if it will turn. If you get it to run block intake for 15 - 30 seconds that takes the load off the rod bearings see if it knocks that will tell u a lot without pulling everything apart.
Think I should use something that has a solvent in it? Or just straight oil? I have some old 20wt around here somewhere
 
What is it’s intended use at the end? This just a fun little project and used for intermediate use or a daily runner used as a workhorse.
if you were me I think it’s a can of worms and move on it could be trouble with spending way to many dollars 💵 on it.
 
What is it’s intended use at the end? This just a fun little project and used for intermediate use or a daily runner used as a workhorse.
if you were me I think it’s a can of worms and move on it could be trouble with spending way to many dollars 💵 on it.
It's just a project, I got it for cheap. I don't want to spend a lot on it. Originally I was going to use it for the new shop but decided I want to go new, and hopefully it's trouble free. Looking at an Eaton 7.5hp for the shop
 
What shape is the pressure vessel in? If it's rotted out.....Not sure this project is worth the effort?
Not really sure, and one of the reasons I decided to go new. I might just repurpose what I can from it and bail. If I could resell with minimal cost outlay I would do that, but it's looking grim.
 
It's just a project, I got it for cheap. I don't want to spend a lot on it. Originally I was going to use it for the new shop but decided I want to go new, and hopefully it's trouble free. Looking at an Eaton 7.5hp for the shop
Looks like a pretty decent compressor enough to do about anything including sandblasting nobody has ever said I just have to much air.
 
It's just a project, I got it for cheap. I don't want to spend a lot on it. Originally I was going to use it for the new shop but decided I want to go new, and hopefully it's trouble free. Looking at an Eaton 7.5hp for the shop

The pump is a Saylor-Beall 707 offshore knock-off.....Just so you're aware. A genuine Saylor-Beall 707 pump by itself costs more than that entire set-up!

However.....I'm not saying it's a POS & for all I know it'll return years of trouble free service., If you're going to copy a design, The 707 is one of the best!
 
Well immediate problem is solved. I'll put this on the back burner for now.
Because I just blew my air compressor budget on this
:) And it ships on Monday, top that!
vr10-8_r_4_1_1_1_1.jpg
 
  • Capacity (CFM) @ 175 PSI
    25.8 CFM @ 175 PSI
  • Horsepower (HP)
    7.5 HP
  • Max Pressure (PSI)
    175 PSI
  • Number of Cyclinders
    4
  • Pump Drive
    Belt
  • Pump Model
    R-30
  • Pump RPM
    575
  • 80 gal tank
  • Air Cooler
  • Auto Drain
  • Low oil cutoff
  • Magnetic Starter
 
  • Capacity (CFM) @ 175 PSI
    25.8 CFM @ 175 PSI
  • Horsepower (HP)
    7.5 HP
  • Max Pressure (PSI)
    175 PSI
  • Number of Cyclinders
    4
  • Pump Drive
    Belt
  • Pump Model
    R-30
  • Pump RPM
    575
  • 80 gal tank
  • Air Cooler
  • Auto Drain
  • Low oil cutoff
  • Magnetic Starter
What’s it’s main purpose will you sandblast
 
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