Premature MAF Sensor Failure?

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Apr 15, 2017
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Napa, CA.
After about 2 years or 30000 miles of service the Blue Streak (Standard) MAF sensor in my 2010 Escape died.

I’d driven about 20 miles, then spent about half an hour sitting in a parking lot with the key on but engine off. I had it like this so I can have the air blowing on me from the blower motor.

Anyway, I started up the car and it cranked for an unusually long time then immediately the wrench light came on. It ran horribly, hesitating, RPM fluctuating, down on power… I limped it a few blocks to work where I observed a pending MAF circuit code and a 0.00 MAF reading with the engine running, obviously impossible.

Replacing the MAF sensor resolved the issue.

Now my question is… why did this sensor last such a short period of time? Does having the key on with the engine off cause it to overheat? I understand that MAF sensors work using heat, and I wonder if with no airflow over it, it kills it? I do have the key on with engine off quite often, sometimes for an hour…

Or is it just a lousy part/random failure?

Also how much dust is normal on the leading side/edge of the plastic housing of the MAF? There was a noticeable amount which surprised me. I expected it to be perfectly clean? The air filter seems to be seated fine.

And before you ask, the original OEM MAF had to be replaced because I was not careful and a dead bug fell into the housing while I was changing the air filter about 2 years ago and then next time I drove it got sucked into the MAF shorting it and killing it. But that one lasted about 5 years/100k. That’s why I’m surprised this one died so soon?
 

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Probably contamination, especially since you noticed dust. Some MAF designs are more prone than others to failure. Wire vs vane. Some particle gets baked on and the sensor reads incorrectly. Did you try cleaning the sensor with MAF sensor cleaner? I've had MAF sensor last 20k miles and I've had them last 200k miles.
 
The practice of sitting in the car with the key on to operate the fan is a huge battery drain and yes the MAF will stay energized and heat up but what probably happened is the part just failed. Like said above, parts can go 100k+ miles or anywhere before or after - there is not set time. Stop sitting in the car with the key on, you're better running the engine or just use accessory mode for the radio and open the windows.
 
Now my question is… why did this sensor last such a short period of time?
Why? it's a lower quality aftermarket item. OEM MAF's would be my choice. A poor sealing airbox. ductwork and/or an air filter run past its prime.
 
Why? it's a lower quality aftermarket item. OEM MAF's would be my choice. A poor sealing airbox. ductwork and/or an air filter run past its prime.
Standard parts are high quality- just because it’s after market, everyone assumes it’s “lower quality”
 
Aftermarket part is the problem, I had a brand new Delphi last under 6 miles and SMP last a few months. OE only, cost a lot more usually but it ends the headache. SMP have not been high quality parts in many years. Blue Streak was SMP's top of the line over the red box at one time and the gold standard, even better than OE, now its just a name for the same cheap crap. Another good brand that has died away in the aftermarket was Filko.
 
Some particle gets baked on and the sensor reads incorrectly.
MAF on 99 LeSabre I had needed cleaning often, first it was couple times a year and eventually I was having to clean every month or two. Finely I got tired of it and took a Q-tip to it right after I sprayed it with MAF cleaner. I was planning on buying a new one anyway so if I broke it no big deal. Owned it for two more years and never had to clean it again.
 
Hitachi is the OEM vendor for this vehicle's MAF sensor. My '04 ranger suffered a MAF failure from an 'orange' air filter that shed its material into the sensor, causing lean code both banks. I couldn't remove the debris from the heated wire due to the sensor's construction.
This MAF0012 is the same one used on op's escape as well as my daughter's '08 escape and my '04 ranger. (I borrowed the Hitachi off the ranger to test in the escape as its MAF was a chicom no-named-just-replaced-and-has a CEL) before selling the vehicle.) No problems since on either vehicle esp. with ford's picky EEC systems.
 
dogememe, are you sure it was a Blue Streak by SMP, or could it have been a Blue Streak Electronics MAF sensor.

I ask because I believe SMP is only using their Blue Streak moniker on ignition coils, blower motor resistors kits, VVT components, and some camshaft sensor kits.
 
Standard parts are high quality- just because it’s after market, everyone assumes it’s “lower quality”
There is no more “high quality” after market brand, instead its a cyclical cycle; with some appearing to take the lead in after market part quality for a couple years, and then pulling back, cutting costs, coasting on their reputation, reaping the profits, before repeating it all over again. I’ve seen it in virtually every brand at one point or another. And that’s fine, it’s hit or miss...and when you average it out it still probably beats paying double or triple the price for OE parts on a used high mileage vehicle that most probably won’t keep for another 100,000 miles anyway.
 
Aftermarket part is the problem, I had a brand new Delphi last under 6 miles and SMP last a few months. OE only, cost a lot more usually but it ends the headache. SMP have not been high quality parts in many years. Blue Streak was SMP's top of the line over the red box at one time and the gold standard, even better than OE, now its just a name for the same cheap crap. Another good brand that has died away in the aftermarket was Filko.
Thanks- I’m going off my own experience of Blue Streak from the past. Things change. asked your opinion some time ago and was good as long as one doesn’t buy their economy line. Good useful info from someone that deals with this stuff on a daily basis.
 
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There is no more “high quality” after market brand, instead its a cyclical cycle; with some appearing to take the lead in after market part quality for a couple years, and then pulling back, cutting costs, coasting on their reputation, reaping the profits, before repeating it all over again. I’ve seen it in virtually every brand at one point or another. And that’s fine, it’s hit or miss...and when you average it out it still probably beats paying double or triple the price for OE parts on a used high mileage vehicle that most probably won’t keep for another 100,000 miles anyway.
Thank you for that useful insight
 
There is no more “high quality” after market brand, instead its a cyclical cycle; with some appearing to take the lead in after market part quality for a couple years, and then pulling back, cutting costs, coasting on their reputation, reaping the profits, before repeating it all over again. I’ve seen it in virtually every brand at one point or another. And that’s fine, it’s hit or miss...and when you average it out it still probably beats paying double or triple the price for OE parts on a used high mileage vehicle that most probably won’t keep for another 100,000 miles anyway.
Nothing is gained if you have to do something twice from using cheap parts.
 
Nothing is gained if you have to do something twice from using cheap parts.
I know, but honestly unless it’s a real tough labor job I’m willing to do it twice. And I have. Lexus OE control arms for my car we’re going to be $3,000. Bought aftermarket off rock auto...think it was a mixture of Mevotech and Beck Arnley. Cost me $800 bucks. 50,000 miles later I had to do the uppers again...went with even cheaper no name eBay arms ($60 bucks). Those lasted me till I traded in the car.

And also did a front wheel bearing (Beck Arnley again) $90 bucks. Thing only lasted me 7,000 miles. Had to spend much more on an world pack bearing (OE bearing after market price). Total spent $500 bucks...but it was still less than the $600 for an OE. But yeah, wasn’t fun doing that one twice. And I don’t think I’ll ever buy anything from Beck Arnley again.
 
No scientific data to back this up, but it seems that aftermarket MAF sensors are either DOA or don't last every long. It doesn't seem to isolated to any one aftermarket brand either. I don't know why this is.
 
That MAF sensor is very similar to the Hitachi OEMs my Nissans use.

I know in the case of our 2019 Nissan Pathfinder, it got to the point the engine wouldn't even start due to a bad MAF. I still can't wrap my head around why it wouldn't even run in limp mode once it warmed up, but that was the result I experienced along with a P0101 code. This is with the "new" direct injected VQ35DD engine.

I had a Napa Pro Select air filter element in it that didn't fit quite right and sagged into the air cleaner housing, allowing unfiltered air to pass. A proper fitting air filter and new MAF fixed it.
 
dogememe, are you sure it was a Blue Streak by SMP, or could it have been a Blue Streak Electronics MAF sensor.

I ask because I believe SMP is only using their Blue Streak moniker on ignition coils, blower motor resistors kits, VVT components, and some camshaft sensor kits.
Well, now that’s very interesting and I hadn’t even noticed that. I did notice when our MAFs at work started being labeled Blue Streak a few years ago they have a like code of BSE for Blue Streak Electronics instead of STD or various others we use for Standard products. And it shows the supplier as Blue Streak America Inc. instead of Standard Motor Products Inc. I guess I just assumed like most others that it’s the same company as the Standard Blue Streak stuff.
 
Why? it's a lower quality aftermarket item. OEM MAF's would be my choice. A poor sealing airbox. ductwork and/or an air filter run past its prime.
Ok, school me, how would a dirty old air filter make a difference to the MAF? I’m under the impression a dirty filter works better than a clean one?

I have a Wix in there now. The same one I put in back when the original MAF died a couple years ago. Guess I’ll order a Motorcraft one and swap it out. Actually costs me less than Wix. Lol.
 
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