Pre-trip maintenance thread

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: andrewg
Originally Posted By: PT1
When I drive to Florida (almost every year) I do the following:

1. Balance all 4 tires & inflate 2psi over
2. lube/oil/filter
3. check air filter
4. top off fluids
5. inspect serpentine belts
6. check driveline for leaks while having the tires balanced.
7. add 1/2 bottle of techron to first tank of fuel.

What I take with me:

1. 1/2" breaker bar & lug socket
2. 2 cans fix a flat
3. tire repair kit
4. small tool box
5. pack of road flares
6. cell phone car charger
7. small first aid kit
8. tape a $100 bill inside the fuse box cover.

PT1....very good. I couldn't agree more. I've made several trips from the west coast to the east this list is a good one. And yes....change the darn oil. Bring an extra quart or two as well.


I always take my own food for the trip as well. Usually a small coleman cooler and of course my SS coffee thermos. Cell phone headset. Blanket & pillow in case I need to hit a rest stop. Flashlight too. I make lots of long solo trips from Ohio to South Florida. So I always like to be prepared.

My wife used to make fun of me until on one trip to Key West in the Yukon XL we picked up an allen wrench in the LR tire. The TPMS went off while we were on the 7 mile bridge at dusk. I was able to plug the tire on the truck on the side of the road using my repair kit in the dark while she held the flashlight. The plug held long enough to get us to the condo in KW, unload all the luggage & kids and then got me to the Sears Auto center for a high speed plug install.
grin2.gif
Now she is a believer.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Glad you didnt change the oil - many folks do this and they end up with MORE wear due to the highly active detergent pack in a fresh sump. Engines will show the lowest wear metals when sump is 2/3 spent.


31.gif
 
After having a bout of flat tires several years back, I've gone the route of buying a used tire and wheel from the junk yard, along with an old floor jack and torque wrench to keep in my trunk. It takes up a lot of space, but if I get a flat (and I haven't since I've done this - go figure!), I'm up and running within about 3 minutes and have full vehicle capability. Full size tire that is bolted on properly!
 
Lol I am NOT changing the oil that only has 1500(ish) miles on it. I'm planning on taking it to 6k-7.5k miles anyway, so what's the point? Tires have at least another 20k left on them. Belts should be fine, they are pretty new.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
After having a bout of flat tires several years back, I've gone the route of buying a used tire and wheel from the junk yard, along with an old floor jack and torque wrench to keep in my trunk. It takes up a lot of space, but if I get a flat (and I haven't since I've done this - go figure!), I'm up and running within about 3 minutes and have full vehicle capability. Full size tire that is bolted on properly!


Good idea about the tire and jack. I bought a 2 1/4 ton floor jack for my van to replace the bottle jack. The Jack was NIB, about 2 months after I bought it I got a rear tire blowout on the LIE. The stinking jack would jack the van and it would come right back down again. Good thing I kept the bottle jack in the van. Moral of the story, make sure the jack is good and in working order.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
After having a bout of flat tires several years back, I've gone the route of buying a used tire and wheel from the junk yard, along with an old floor jack and torque wrench to keep in my trunk. It takes up a lot of space, but if I get a flat (and I haven't since I've done this - go figure!), I'm up and running within about 3 minutes and have full vehicle capability. Full size tire that is bolted on properly!


You know there some folks I talk to who claim to never gotten a flat tire. I'm like you, I seem to get a flat tire at least once a year.
 
I check fluid levels and tire pressures, and grab the battery wires to make sure the connections at the terminals are tight. I also look closely at the belts and hoses and do a quick visual inspection under the hood for leaks or anything unusual. Sometimes I'll check the lugnut torque as well.
 
Many good suggestions so far, I would use them all, especially good tires and alignment.

If the vehicle has aluminum wheels re-torque all the lugs 75 miles after a wheel is put on or it could come off. This is actually in fine print on many service papers. Most people don't see it and get caught with it actually happening to them and learn that lesson the hard way. There is a special torque bar that some shops use to initially put the lugs on an aluminum wheel, that then does not require re-torque. This is great if your shop uses it. But it could make you complacent about putting on a spare and not re-torque it 75 miles later.

A full size spare with the same type of tire that is on the vehicle is a real good idea. Space saver spare tires are only good for 50 to 100 miles, and are not worth a darn in snow or at highway speeds.

As soon as possible, get everyone who might be driving to open their wallet and actually look at their drivers license and check that: 1)They actually have it in their possession, and 2) That it is up to date regarding renewal. My brother lost his license and got a replacement. That somehow screwed up the automatic renewal system and the state never sent him a notice when his license was near expiring. He did not notice it. They went on vacation. At the airport they asked to see his ID. He showed it and because it was expired it did not count. The whole family had to go through an extensive security check.

Also check insurance card.

Now is the time to check these things, because if there is a problem you can go to a notary and get an emergency temporary replacement, or a faxed proof of insurance.
 
I hide a entrance only key outside the vehicle. This key is wrapped in kitchen plastic wrap, then in electric tape and then taped some-where accessible outside the vehicle either with gorilla duct tape or electric tape.

If the key is a double sided key you can make a single sided key and file the other side all the way down. It only takes one side (but you will have to insert the correct side oriented correctly) to open a door, and it will not turn an ignition without both sides.

If the vehicle has an expensive electric key you can make a low cost hardware store non electric key duplicate that will open the door if the key get locked in, but will not start the vehicle. If you have the expensive electronic ignition key and make up a low cost hardware key, NEVER PUT IT IN THE IGNITION. Some ignition systems will fry them self by design to prevent theft if a low cost hardware copy is ever tried in the ignition. If you have one of these systems hide the key, and you might attach a note about ONLY use for door, will damage ignition system if tried in ignition.

When you travel there are distractions, and sometimes other people handle keys to get get items into or out-of the vehicle, and kids are great at locking keys into vehicles. A hidden entrance key can be a real day saver when the keys get locked in the vehicle. And if you have a key that can only unlock a door but not turn the ignition you do not have to worry about someone stealing the vehicle with it.
 
Somebody mentioned a flashlight or two. Good thought.
I put a candle and a box of waterproof matches in the glove box for winter/spring trips. Especially if you're north/midwest or in the mountains.
The clean idea is a very good one too. Roll of paper towels and some vinyl garbage bags. Smart.
 
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
I hide a entrance only key outside the vehicle. This key is wrapped in kitchen plastic wrap, then in electric tape and then taped some-where accessible outside the vehicle either with gorilla duct tape or electric tape.

If the key is a double sided key you can make a single sided key and file the other side all the way down. It only takes one side (but you will have to insert the correct side oriented correctly) to open a door, and it will not turn an ignition without both sides.

If the vehicle has an expensive electric key you can make a low cost hardware store non electric key duplicate that will open the door if the key get locked in, but will not start the vehicle. If you have the expensive electronic ignition key and make up a low cost hardware key, NEVER PUT IT IN THE IGNITION. Some ignition systems will fry them self by design to prevent theft if a low cost hardware copy is ever tried in the ignition. If you have one of these systems hide the key, and you might attach a note about ONLY use for door, will damage ignition system if tried in ignition.

When you travel there are distractions, and sometimes other people handle keys to get get items into or out-of the vehicle, and kids are great at locking keys into vehicles. A hidden entrance key can be a real day saver when the keys get locked in the vehicle. And if you have a key that can only unlock a door but not turn the ignition you do not have to worry about someone stealing the vehicle with it.



I am very glad Ford has a keyless entry key pad on the door.
 
IMHO, if you have to brush up on maintenance before you take a trip, then you aren't keeping up with maintenance correctly. You should be able to take off and be secure at any time.

Do I do this? Afraid not, esp. that enclosed spare tire but that is my goal anyway.
 
Originally Posted By: johnd
IMHO, if you have to brush up on maintenance before you take a trip, then you aren't keeping up with maintenance correctly. You should be able to take off and be secure at any time.

Do I do this? Afraid not, esp. that enclosed spare tire but that is my goal anyway.


+1

I went on a snap 500 mile trip yesterday. Before leaving I popped the hood to give a general scan, check the oil and coolant level in the reservoir. That was it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top