Pre-Season B&S Tune-up

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I pulled my mower equipped with a 6-1/2 HP B&S Quantum engine out of storage yesterday. It started on the second pull, after 4+ months of being stored in an unheated lawn shed during Michigan's winter season. My tune-up consisted of installing a new plug, new air filter, change of oil, and sharpening of the blade.

Although the mower started fine prior to doing this work I had one heck of a time getting it to start afterwards. I reinstalled the old sparkplug thinking maybe the new plug was defective, but no difference. Eventually it started up and continues to start on the first or second pull.

The engine acted as if there was an incompressible in the combustion chamber (such as oil), or that the recoil starter was jamming and not disengaging. When the engine finally restarted there was only a faintest wisp of smoke from the exhaust, so there couldn't have been much (if any) oil trapped in the combustion chamber. The starter rope was jerked out of my hand a few times by the engine as I was trying to get it started. One such incident resulted in the T-handle of the recoil starter striking the handlebars and fracturing, sending large piece of shrapnel(the broken piece of T-handle) careening around the garage. The outer jacket of the rope was torn in half, and only the unbundled nylon fibers comprising the core of the rope remained, so a new recoil starter was required too.

What a PITA to install a new recoil starter! The old starter was pop-riveted to the engine shroud. The instructions with the new starter said to drill out the rivets with a 3/16 bit. The rivets were so poorly installed that they spun with the bit! So I had to remove the shroud, use a cut-off disc in my Dremel to cut most of the way through the rivets (poor ergonomics prevented cutting all the way through), then use a small Cold Chisel to fully sever the rivets. Buy this time the area of the shroud surrounding each former rivet hole was sufficiently distorted that the short bolts supplied by B&S with the starter were too short to accept the provided nuts. So the shround went onto a make-shift anvil (short piece of Iron Rail) which allowed me to pound the metal flat using a Tin Smith's hammer.

Finally it all went back together! And it is now starting properly - again!

So what do you think was the base issue with the failure to start, effectively a back-fire issue? Oil trapped in cylinder? Bad recoil starter jamming? Something else? I don't want to repeat this same scenario again next Spring.

By the way, this is a 2002 mower and engine.
 
I am guessing that you tipped the mower to take off the blade, and gas or oil or both ran into the cylinder. Although if you turned the engine over with the rope while the plug was out, it should have cleared it. What I don't understand is why you replaced the whole recoil when you just needed a new rope. If you didn't know how to replace the rope bringing the blower housing to a shop and having the rope replaced would (or at least should) have been cheaper than what you did. It only takes like 5 minutes to put in a new rope.
 
Re-torque the head bolts too (if you have a torque wrench)
The few closer to the exhaust valve tend to loosen up & create head gasket leak.
Mine always does nothing on the first two pulls of the year, I always blame it on a dry cylinder wall from storage.
 
I've seen other machines do something similar in terms of feeling like there was an "incompressibe" in the cylinder. This seems to happen when the engine starts and runs for only a second or two. My pressure washer with a Honda GCV160 seems to do this a lot. Maybe the engine is stalling on the compression stoke; who knows? In any event, it pulls and starts easily if I let it sit for a minute or two.
 
As stated above, tipping the mower over can allow oil into the combustion chamber. If it does it again, take out the spark plug, i bet you find oil. I just use my pushmower for trim, so i sharpen the blade after i've drained the oil and before i put more in.
 
I have that with my mower the incompressible and I usually pull gently just until it releases. Probably more to do with piston location than a true incompressible but I am not sure about that. Once I do this it is almost like a decompression knob was put on it and pulls quite easily. I do this with all of my pull start engines.
 
Originally Posted by vw7674
Re-torque the head bolts too (if you have a torque wrench)
The few closer to the exhaust valve tend to loosen up & create head gasket leak.
Mine always does nothing on the first two pulls of the year, I always blame it on a dry cylinder wall from storage.

Don't need a torque wrench, use some common sense and snug them up.
 
Originally Posted by old1
I am guessing that you tipped the mower to take off the blade, and gas or oil or both ran into the cylinder. Although if you turned the engine over with the rope while the plug was out, it should have cleared it. What I don't understand is why you replaced the whole recoil when you just needed a new rope. If you didn't know how to replace the rope bringing the blower housing to a shop and having the rope replaced would (or at least should) have been cheaper than what you did. It only takes like 5 minutes to put in a new rope.


Thanks! Everyone confirmed my suspicions. I 'assume' 50 ft-lbs would be adequate for the head bolts as a double check measure?

My plan for future years was to pull the rope with plug removed to prevent this - unless there was a better and obvious solution posted by a reader.

As far as replacing the whole starter or just the rope, replacing the rope alone would have required the same amount of demolition work to remove the old recoil mechanism from the shroud. Plus more installation work, new rope and the old recoil mechanism. Plus I would be betting on no other internal problem with the 17 year old recoil mechanism, something of which I was not confident. Trust me, I considered doing just the rope.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by MI_Roger
Originally Posted by old1
I am guessing that you tipped the mower to take off the blade, and gas or oil or both ran into the cylinder. Although if you turned the engine over with the rope while the plug was out, it should have cleared it. What I don't understand is why you replaced the whole recoil when you just needed a new rope. If you didn't know how to replace the rope bringing the blower housing to a shop and having the rope replaced would (or at least should) have been cheaper than what you did. It only takes like 5 minutes to put in a new rope.


Thanks! Everyone confirmed my suspicions. I 'assume' 50 ft-lbs would be adequate for the head bolts as a double check measure?

My plan for future years was to pull the rope with plug removed to prevent this - unless there was a better and obvious solution posted by a reader.

As far as replacing the whole starter or just the rope, replacing the rope alone would have required the same amount of demolition work to remove the old recoil mechanism from the shroud. Plus more installation work, new rope and the old recoil mechanism. Plus I would be betting on no other internal problem with the 17 year old recoil mechanism, something of which I was not confident. Trust me, I considered doing just the rope.





You do NOT have to remove the recoil mechanism from the shroud to replace the rope. You simply rewind the spring, and thread the rope in. I have been doing it for 50 years.
 
Dang! I just checked the internet at lunch and my B&S engine series only uses 140 inch-pounds of torque on the head bolts. Which is slightly less than 12 ft-lbs. I don't own a torque wrench that reads that low!
 
Originally Posted by MI_Roger
Dang! I just checked the internet at lunch and my B&S engine series only uses 140 inch-pounds of torque on the head bolts. Which is slightly less than 12 ft-lbs. I don't own a torque wrench that reads that low!

A person needs to know their limitations.
At 50 foot pounds, I am surprised you didn't strip the threads. At this point, I would replace the head gasket after backing off all the bolts that much. It's not going to bounce back and will likely leak.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Lubener
Originally Posted by vw7674
Re-torque the head bolts too (if you have a torque wrench)
The few closer to the exhaust valve tend to loosen up & create head gasket leak.
Mine always does nothing on the first two pulls of the year, I always blame it on a dry cylinder wall from storage.

Don't need a torque wrench, use some common sense and snug them up.

LOL I use my hex drive. It's just a flathead.
 
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