Powerbass OE652-NS2 or Direct fit speakers

anyone with experience using these speakers or the direct fit series from powerbass?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1564138769...|tkp:BFBMnu68z9Nk&LH_BIN=1&LH_ItemCondition=3
I don't have experience with these speakers but you picked wisely with the NS2 version, 2-ohm. Most nissan's are odd and they use a 2-ohm speaker instead of the standard 4 ohm. I was a little disappointed with the 89db sensitivity, why? Because for every 3 db increase of sensitivity you can cut the audio amp power by half and it'll be the same loudness. Usually factory speakers are around 90-91db in sensitivity. Just letting you know if you're planning on using the factory headunit to drive these speakers. you might have to turn the volume higher for the same loudness.

Other than that, they look like nice speakers, Crutchfield has the NS and the reviews are decent. But I wouldn't use the NS as it's the 4 ohm version but you probably know that. Crutchfield didn't have the ns2.. I liked that they had a rubber surround, foam is a joke, treated cloth only last about 3 years in a car's environment. Seen that over the years. The frequency response was ok 70-20khz, should be decent. I suggest finding a retailer that has a generous return policy in case you hate these speakers once installed.
 
I don't have experience with these speakers but you picked wisely with the NS2 version, 2-ohm. Most nissan's are odd and they use a 2-ohm speaker instead of the standard 4 ohm. I was a little disappointed with the 89db sensitivity, why? Because for every 3 db increase of sensitivity you can cut the audio amp power by half and it'll be the same loudness. Usually factory speakers are around 90-91db in sensitivity. Just letting you know if you're planning on using the factory headunit to drive these speakers. you might have to turn the volume higher for the same loudness.

Other than that, they look like nice speakers, Crutchfield has the NS and the reviews are decent. But I wouldn't use the NS as it's the 4 ohm version but you probably know that. Crutchfield didn't have the ns2.. I liked that they had a rubber surround, foam is a joke, treated cloth only last about 3 years in a car's environment. Seen that over the years. The frequency response was ok 70-20khz, should be decent. I suggest finding a retailer that has a generous return policy in case you hate these speakers once installed.
Yes, I ordered the 2-ohm to use with the factory radio/amplifier. The poly cone has more mass over the factory paper cone plus you're driving a tweeter with a small capacitor which will eat up power and drop sensitivity some bit. Staying within that 2-ohm value should keep the amplifier happy, hopefully the better high frequency range will make up for whatever extra power these may require and be of no overall loss. I find myself turning up the volume to battle the road and wind noise with the windows open to some degree this may equal itself out volume wise.

The factory speakers do have decent low end, speakers measured in free air space behave differently than say home audio or subwoofers that require specific box volume to have a tailored fs response. I think the company is being modest and 70hz should be respectable to what the oe speakers produce but will definitely be more solid having a larger magnet, vc, and tighter more dampened cone movement.

I'm going to start with the front doors see my gains and eventually replace the rears.
 
Yes, I ordered the 2-ohm to use with the factory radio/amplifier. The poly cone has more mass over the factory paper cone plus you're driving a tweeter with a small capacitor which will eat up power and drop sensitivity some bit. Staying within that 2-ohm value should keep the amplifier happy, hopefully the better high frequency range will make up for whatever extra power these may require and be of no overall loss. I find myself turning up the volume to battle the road and wind noise with the windows open to some degree this may equal itself out volume wise.

The factory speakers do have decent low end, speakers measured in free air space behave differently than say home audio or subwoofers that require specific box volume to have a tailored fs response. I think the company is being modest and 70hz should be respectable to what the oe speakers produce but will definitely be more solid having a larger magnet, vc, and tighter more dampened cone movement.

I'm going to start with the front doors see my gains and eventually replace the rears.
If you want to pickup low end response you’ll need to separate the front & rear waveforms. Dampening & sealing the doors will go a long way towards this.

Most of the higher end shops are doing the opposite of your approach these days (for new vehicles with the higher end audio options). They’re just adding DSP to the stock front stage & possibly a subwoofer. You’d be surprised at the results good tuners are getting.
 
Yes, I ordered the 2-ohm to use with the factory radio/amplifier. The poly cone has more mass over the factory paper cone plus you're driving a tweeter with a small capacitor which will eat up power and drop sensitivity some bit. Staying within that 2-ohm value should keep the amplifier happy, hopefully the better high frequency range will make up for whatever extra power these may require and be of no overall loss. I find myself turning up the volume to battle the road and wind noise with the windows open to some degree this may equal itself out volume wise.

The factory speakers do have decent low end, speakers measured in free air space behave differently than say home audio or subwoofers that require specific box volume to have a tailored fs response. I think the company is being modest and 70hz should be respectable to what the oe speakers produce but will definitely be more solid having a larger magnet, vc, and tighter more dampened cone movement.

I'm going to start with the front doors see my gains and eventually replace the rears.
sorry I didn't respond earlier, didn't see this message. I agree the 2-ohm speaker will keep the amp happy.

it's one thing to print specs on paper, it's another for the real world, be interesting to see how these perform when you install them! Keep us posted on your progress.
 
If you want to pickup low end response you’ll need to separate the front & rear waveforms. Dampening & sealing the doors will go a long way towards this.

Most of the higher end shops are doing the opposite of your approach these days (for new vehicles with the higher end audio options). They’re just adding DSP to the stock front stage & possibly a subwoofer. You’d be surprised at the results good tuners are getting.
It’s the highs that the factory speakers lack. Paper whizzer cones just fall short in that department. The “mid-bass” does alright
 
It’s the highs that the factory speakers lack. Paper whizzer cones just fall short in that department. The “mid-bass” does alright
Ok. Reading the 1st sentence in the Powerbass description, “premium OEM 2ohm”, I took it as though your vehicle had an optional OEM upgrade.

If your car has whizzer cone speakers then I’d agree they should be replaced. I’m on mobile so can’t see what’s in anyone’s signature, if your vehicle has these speakers low & forward in the doors, having the tweeter there won’t be great. Midrange will also suffer from beaming starting around 2k Hz.

If none of this matters to you then that’s fine as well.
 
Ok. Reading the 1st sentence in the Powerbass description, “premium OEM 2ohm”, I took it as though your vehicle had an optional OEM upgrade.

If your car has whizzer cone speakers then I’d agree they should be replaced. I’m on mobile so can’t see what’s in anyone’s signature, if your vehicle has these speakers low & forward in the doors, having the tweeter there won’t be great. Midrange will also suffer from beaming starting around 2k Hz.

If none of this matters to you then that’s fine as well.
Just looking for a small upgrade to my 7 mile a day commute lol
 
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