Power Steering Flushed - GREAT

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Mount Dora FL, Penfield NY, Roswell NM
Had my sister and brother-in-law visiting me in Florida. Their 2005 Ford Freestyle was making a strang noise whenever he made a turn. They at first thought it was the transmission, however I told him to turn the steering wheel while standing still, and it made the noise. Looked under the hood while he turned the wheel, and it sounded like it was coming from the PS Pump. OK, I said that it is NOT the transmission, but it could be a bad PS Pump. Before going to a dealer and having the (stealer) tell them that the pump must be replaced, spend a little for a PS Flush. Went to my Ford dealer, and spent $89 for a PS flush. Technician told me that the old fluid was "nasty". Long story short. The flush worked. Not only quiet here in Florida, but also on the road back up north to their home, and now while up there.

Very Happy.
 
Hopefully, the pump won't give up in a few weeks, I have seen that happen as well. Ouch, probably $80 for labor and $9 for the fluid.
 
Wow that is rough...$89??? FWIW, most cars really don't get their power steering fluid "flushed", rather it is siphoned out and replaced with new fluid. Probably was a good idea since debris can easily get in the reserve tank and PS does not last forever either...just remember next time you could accomplish the same thing with a $6 quart of PS fluid
 
I always draw out fluid with a turkey baster every engine oil change. I do the same with the brake master cyl. That seems to keep the fluid fresh as I don't have PS pump failures.
 
More like $12 shop cost for fluid. Both shops I worked at while in college charged something around $75 for the flush, but the cost for the fluid was $12. This included some "universal" type fluid.
 
Purging the PS of old fluid is real simple. This is what I do every 30K miles and never had a PS issue, no leaks, no pump/rack failures no nothing.

1) Drain the reservoir and unplug the return line connected to the reservoir and point the return line (smaller of the lines connected to reservoir, its mostly a 3/8") to a empty gallon jug.
2) Raise the front of the vehicle and do steering locks with the ignition key in ACC (to power the pump but not make it run) and then turn the steering wheel left and right till no fluid comes off the return line.
3) Reconnect the return line and fill the reservior with fresh fluid and do steering locks turning the steering wheel left and right many times while filling the reservior as fresh fluid gets sucked into the PS system everytime a steering lock is done. Keep filling and steering locks until no additional fluid needs to be added to the reservior. With the reservoir with fluid start engine and have the pump flush out all air from the system while doing steering locks left and right 5 times to purge air of the system. Top it off and you are done.
 
MaximaGuy's method is the one that is most recommended by mechanics. It is also the procedure prescribed after steering rack replacement, to flush out any manufacturing debris.

Siphoning is a good way to refresh the fluid and remove any wear debris in suspension, but I would strongly consider flushing the system at least once during its lifetime, especially early on to get rid of the break-in debris.
 
The addition of a Magnefine or SPXFiltran in-line filter in the power steering return line is smart. They are available in 5/16", 3/8", and 1/2" hose sizes--probably 3/8 or 1/2 for most steering units. All hydraulic systems live longer when filtered.

The addition of Auto-Rx to the steering system for a cleaning & seal reconditioning before multiple drains & refills works well.

Lubegard's power steering fluid or their power steering additive or ordinary fluid made a difference for me. The steering was suddenly easier.

If the power steering system takes ATF, synthetic ATF will live longer.
 
would the method maimaguy mentioned work on a hydroboost brake/power steering system? would pumping the brake peddle be proficient?

i have a 2001 mustang with hydroboost.
 
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