Power Steering Fluid Change
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I would do a line off PS fluid exchange with the fluid the mfg. recommends and call it a day. Hopefully that helps.
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Was any work done prior to the noise?
Most should start with a simple drain and refill, all you need is a small hand pump. Avoid the additives except as a last resort IMO...
Originally Posted by SteveSRT8
Most should start with a simple drain and refill, all you need is a small hand pump. Avoid the additives except as a last resort IMO...
How do you do it? Just suck out as much as possible and refill? Or do you do it several times with running it in between?
Most should start with a simple drain and refill, all you need is a small hand pump. Avoid the additives except as a last resort IMO...
How do you do it? Just suck out as much as possible and refill? Or do you do it several times with running it in between?
Using a siphon helps with the process. The reservoir usually has a screen in the bottom that gets gunked up, so when you siphon it out it removes the debris with the old fluid. Use only the recommended fluid too. Good luck!
I've tried the turkey baster method of extracting the PS fluid from the reservoir but have had better luck using the pump dispenser from a large bottle of hand lotion.Wife hates it when I put it back in the bottle.
If you replace the fluid make sure you use pure P/S fluid. The kind with leak sealers is only for top off when low.
Been using automatic transmission fluid in my for years,,,it works just fine in the power steering unit..
There is no point in doing turkey baster D&L.
Complete return line flush raising the car, remove the return line, fill reservoir, do steering locks and get everything out before refilling reservoir.
1-2Q through the system and the PS is back like new.
Complete return line flush raising the car, remove the return line, fill reservoir, do steering locks and get everything out before refilling reservoir.
1-2Q through the system and the PS is back like new.
Harbor Freight makes a plastic hand pump for $ 5 - $10 . I have also used the turkey baster method .
https://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-63144.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-63144.html
You can suck out fluid from the reservoir and replace; that's the easiest and will help.
This is not a bad way to start...
Or:
Suck fluid.
Remove return line from reservoir; plug reservoir port.
Connect extension hose to return line; extension should empty into drain pan.
Clear hose helps...
Raise front wheels off ground.
Fill reservoir.
Turn steering wheel lock to lock; hesitate at lock positions.
Fluid will pump out; fill reservoir as needed.
Continue until clean fluid is seen.
Some suggest starting engine briefly to pump out fluid; I have not done it this way.
You will feel a difference.
I would be surprised if this fixes a whine, but good luck.
This is not a bad way to start...
Or:
Suck fluid.
Remove return line from reservoir; plug reservoir port.
Connect extension hose to return line; extension should empty into drain pan.
Clear hose helps...
Raise front wheels off ground.
Fill reservoir.
Turn steering wheel lock to lock; hesitate at lock positions.
Fluid will pump out; fill reservoir as needed.
Continue until clean fluid is seen.
Some suggest starting engine briefly to pump out fluid; I have not done it this way.
You will feel a difference.
I would be surprised if this fixes a whine, but good luck.
TSB from Chrysler calls out the need for fluid in WJ models which complies with MS5931 standard. This model should have a hydraulic cooling fan which runs off the power steering pump.
http://srt-6.com/pdf/tsb/SB_19_005_03_PowerSteeringFluid.pdf
I believe Mopar MS5931 fluid has been discontinued. Redline Power Steering Fluid lists compliance with MS5931 and is around $12 / quart.
I would start with a fluid flush with MS5931 compliant product before considering additives.
http://srt-6.com/pdf/tsb/SB_19_005_03_PowerSteeringFluid.pdf
I believe Mopar MS5931 fluid has been discontinued. Redline Power Steering Fluid lists compliance with MS5931 and is around $12 / quart.
I would start with a fluid flush with MS5931 compliant product before considering additives.
Originally Posted by MaximaGuy
There is no point in doing turkey baster D&L.
Complete return line flush raising the car, remove the return line, fill reservoir, do steering locks and get everything out before refilling reservoir.
1-2Q through the system and the PS is back like new.
Sure there is.
I've done the turkey baster method on many different vehicles. Suck out old fluid, replace with new, cycle wheels back and forth, repeat. Do this a few times until the fluid is new. Less messy and not a PITA like disconnecting the return lines on many of the cars I have done this with. There is also zero chance of getting air in the system this way.
There is no point in doing turkey baster D&L.
Complete return line flush raising the car, remove the return line, fill reservoir, do steering locks and get everything out before refilling reservoir.
1-2Q through the system and the PS is back like new.
Sure there is.
I've done the turkey baster method on many different vehicles. Suck out old fluid, replace with new, cycle wheels back and forth, repeat. Do this a few times until the fluid is new. Less messy and not a PITA like disconnecting the return lines on many of the cars I have done this with. There is also zero chance of getting air in the system this way.
Originally Posted by Devo242
TSB from Chrysler calls out the need for fluid in WJ models which complies with MS5931 standard. This model should have a hydraulic cooling fan which runs off the power steering pump.
http://srt-6.com/pdf/tsb/SB_19_005_03_PowerSteeringFluid.pdf
I believe Mopar MS5931 fluid has been discontinued. Redline Power Steering Fluid lists compliance with MS5931 and is around $12 / quart.
I would start with a fluid flush with MS5931 compliant product before considering additives.
I've never seen a WJ with a hydraulic cooling fan that runs off the power steering pump. They had two options: electric fan, and a fan clutch fan attached to the water pump. The fan clutch fan was belt driven, but attached to the water pump pulley, and is separate from the PS system.
TSB from Chrysler calls out the need for fluid in WJ models which complies with MS5931 standard. This model should have a hydraulic cooling fan which runs off the power steering pump.
http://srt-6.com/pdf/tsb/SB_19_005_03_PowerSteeringFluid.pdf
I believe Mopar MS5931 fluid has been discontinued. Redline Power Steering Fluid lists compliance with MS5931 and is around $12 / quart.
I would start with a fluid flush with MS5931 compliant product before considering additives.
I've never seen a WJ with a hydraulic cooling fan that runs off the power steering pump. They had two options: electric fan, and a fan clutch fan attached to the water pump. The fan clutch fan was belt driven, but attached to the water pump pulley, and is separate from the PS system.
Kestas
Staff member
This is the thorough way to do it. This is also recommended by steering rack remanufacturers to flush out debris from their units after installation.
Flush Power Steering Fluid Exchange
You'll need a helper.
1. Lift front tires off the ground.
2. Disconnect the ps return line at reservoir, drain ps reservoir.
3. Plug open connection at the reservoir.
4. Secure the return line to a generously-sized container (at least one gallon). If needed, add a length of hose.
5. Fill reservoir with new fluid.
6. Line up your bottles of new fluid for quick pouring.
Here comes the fun part...
7. Have helper turn car on, and immediately have him go through full range of steering motion (left and right) and shut off car, all the while you are trying to keep the reservoir filled.
8. Button everything back up.
9. Clean up mess.
10. Top off fluid.
The front tires must be off the ground so the system is unloaded, otherwise a lot of fluid is forcefully pumped out. The return line must be secured to prevent a big mess. Keep at least a gallon of ps fluid on hand. The helper must know what they are doing.
I strongly recommend using power steering fluid rather than the Dexron stuff that is probably recommended for your vehicle. Modern Dexron formulations are different than the Dexron formulations present at the time when your car was built. Power steering fluid is the same as Dexron, but without the additives that may be harmful to the steering system.
Flush Power Steering Fluid Exchange
You'll need a helper.
1. Lift front tires off the ground.
2. Disconnect the ps return line at reservoir, drain ps reservoir.
3. Plug open connection at the reservoir.
4. Secure the return line to a generously-sized container (at least one gallon). If needed, add a length of hose.
5. Fill reservoir with new fluid.
6. Line up your bottles of new fluid for quick pouring.
Here comes the fun part...
7. Have helper turn car on, and immediately have him go through full range of steering motion (left and right) and shut off car, all the while you are trying to keep the reservoir filled.
8. Button everything back up.
9. Clean up mess.
10. Top off fluid.
The front tires must be off the ground so the system is unloaded, otherwise a lot of fluid is forcefully pumped out. The return line must be secured to prevent a big mess. Keep at least a gallon of ps fluid on hand. The helper must know what they are doing.
I strongly recommend using power steering fluid rather than the Dexron stuff that is probably recommended for your vehicle. Modern Dexron formulations are different than the Dexron formulations present at the time when your car was built. Power steering fluid is the same as Dexron, but without the additives that may be harmful to the steering system.
Since my vehicles are older, 23 years and 13 years old I'm afraid to try and loosen the connections due to corrosion from years of heavy salting here in northern NJ. I tried the turkey baster method and then I started using one of the metal suction guns. That works great and it's quick and much less messy than using a turkey baster but it's the exact same principle.
Whimsey
Whimsey
Originally Posted by billt460
Originally Posted by SteveSRT8
Most should start with a simple drain and refill, all you need is a small hand pump. Avoid the additives except as a last resort IMO...
How do you do it? Just suck out as much as possible and refill? Or do you do it several times with running it in between?
Grab a turkey baster or other fluid pump. Remove as much as possible from the reservoir. Refill and drive a week. Repeat until fluid coming out looks like fluid going in.
Originally Posted by SteveSRT8
Most should start with a simple drain and refill, all you need is a small hand pump. Avoid the additives except as a last resort IMO...
How do you do it? Just suck out as much as possible and refill? Or do you do it several times with running it in between?
Grab a turkey baster or other fluid pump. Remove as much as possible from the reservoir. Refill and drive a week. Repeat until fluid coming out looks like fluid going in.
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