Power Steering Fluid Change Questions

[Carlostrece]

How often should I change the power steering fluid in my 97 Buick Park Ave?

Does brand of PS fluid matter?

My PS system has no leaks, but the car is 28 years old. So knock on wood.

I was told Swepco PS fluid is best for the 96 & 99 Jeep Cherokees that I owned, but I don't know if that advice applies to 97 Buick.

My best guess is Swepco or Valvoline PS fluid are possibly good options, but I'm open to suggestions.

PS fluid was changed at 55K miles 10-12 years ago from original stock PS fluid to Lucas PS fluid. Current mileage 105K miles on it.

 

[Furious]

Your Buick does not call for any special fluid, your basic parts store brand, Walmart Supertech, etc will work just fine.

Try to stick to a 30-40,000 miles interval.

 

[dubber09]

What fluid is specified in owner's manual, any spec or standard to follow? Many PS systems use ATF for fluid; as a matter of fact I replaced my son in law's 2021 Taco's factory PS fluid with MaxLife ATF a couple of weeks ago, it called for DEXRON® II or III.

 

[gman2304]

I’ve been slowly changing mine with a turkey baster over the last month or so. I can get about 3/4 of a pint each time and it’s getting nice and red in color. My owners manual calls for Mercon V and I’m using the Supertech version.

 

[tig1]

I've used M1 ATF in my PS pumps for at least 35 years. I do a turkey baster drain every OCI (10K). Never had a pump failure.

 

[D60]

Dex/Merc. Change it as often as your OCD requires. I VERY rarely change it on my personal vehicles

 

[BrianF]

Use a quality ATF that will work with your climate. Your vehicle won't care. Up here, synthetic ATF that flows nice in the cold is almost half the price of the dedicated power steering fluid.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

My sons Forte calls for Kia SP-III I believe. I've used Maxlife red bottle ATF for all his changes. I use my HF extractor. I just 3x changes the last week since I was doing his transmission anyway.

Daughters CRV I used Honda PSF after repairs from a rusted out metal line. I had used Autozone Honda version to keep it full while driving home. Some of that probably still in there. It’s had a couple vacuum and refills since then with the Honda stuff. I had bought extra since I didn’t know how much I might need, probably ½ bottle left still.

 

[Carlostrece]

Dex/Merc. Change it as often as your OCD requires. I VERY rarely change it on my personal vehicles

My OCD combined with laziness and frugality likes 60K miles or 10 years (whichever comes first) because that's also when I change ATF in transmission and engine coolant. However, my OCD alone wants all those done every 50K miles or 5 years.

This time it's been around 12-13 years for all those things. Oops. My bad. I was distracted by work and health problems and forgot about these thingd for a few years too long. Now catching up.

 

[Carlostrece]

I'm now thinking Maxlife PS fluid because my car is 28 years old and I'd like to continue NOT having any power steering leaks. I trust Valvoline brand. Also, I can probably get it cheap from Walmart.

 

[Carlostrece]

If anyone is interested, here's a link to Swepco power steering fluid. https://swepcolube.com/products/swepco-715-power-steering-hydraulic-oil/

It says it has a Group VI base stock (whatever that means?).

Swepco is reputedly excellent, but I think it's a bit spendy. Though maybe I'd think any brand is spendy because I haven't stayed current on prices of various PS fluid brands.

 

[Egg_Head]

This is my go-to for most of my fleet:
https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-232...ocphy=9060246&hvtargid=pla-2281435179338&th=1

MB's get CHF 11s.

 

[Marcozi]

If anyone is interested, here's a link to Swepco power steering fluid. https://swepcolube.com/products/swepco-715-power-steering-hydraulic-oil/

It says it has a Group VI base stock (whatever that means?).

Swepco is reputedly excellent, but I think it's a bit spendy. Though maybe I'd think any brand is spendy because I haven't stayed current on prices of various PS fluid brands.

Group VI base stock means that the fluid is made of synthetic esters.

 

[GRUMPYDUDE2]

This is my go-to for most of my fleet:
https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-232...ocphy=9060246&hvtargid=pla-2281435179338&th=1

MB's get CHF 11s.

Second this! Lubegard is good stuff. Was very impressed how well it worked for me. Very smooth feel and silent operation.

 

[RyanY]

The basic store brand PS fluid will work fine in a GM vehicle. However, if your car has notchy or otherwise imperfect steering it may be worth upgrading the fluid. IMO the Lucas PS fluid with conditioners is one of the best off-the-shelf fluids available (walmart). I have used it in several high mileage Honda and GM vehicles with notchiness, and in every case it smoothed out the steering almost immediately (prior to Lucas, new genuine Honda fluid in the Hondas and Valvoline fluid in the GMs did not reduce the notchiness, so I am convinced that the Lucas is better). Nevertheless, I still change it every 2-3 years (30-40k miles) even though it could probably go longer.

Also, I recently got some RP Max-EZ on clearance, so i switched my Cadillac to that during the last fluid replacement. It also works well, but the steering was smooth (from the Lucas) before the RP so I don't know whether it is as good as Lucas at smoothing things out.

 

[Carlostrece]

I’ve been slowly changing mine with a turkey baster over the last month or so. I can get about 3/4 of a pint each time and it’s getting nice and red in color. My owners manual calls for Mercon V and I’m using the Supertech version.

My cousin completely flushed and replaced the PS fluid in my neighbor's Honda CR-V today (using Honda PS fluid) in 30 min. He used a suction tool he bought at autostore that looks similar to a grease gun. It's basically a gigantic syringe or giant turkey baster. It was a low cost tool that works great.

It sucked all the fluid out of PS resevoir in less than a minute. A lot faster than a turkey baster could.

Then he refilled resevoir with new fluid. Then cap off resevoir, engine off, and front of car jacked up enough to lift front wheels off the ground, turn steering wheel back and forth (lock to lock) 6-8 times. This pumps/circulates the new oil out of resevoir into system and dirty oil out of system into resevoir. (He did that with engine off.)

Then suck dirty oil out of resevoir again. Then refill resevoir with new oil. Then turn steering wheel back and forth 6-8 times.

Then suck out resevoir again. Refill with new oil again. Turn wheels back and forth 6-8 times

Keep repeating the process until you've added 1.5 quarts (at least for this car which holds almost 2 quarts in system). All that ^ with cap off resevoir, engine off, front wheels off ground.

At this point the old oil is gone and you've got as much new oil in it as can be done with engine off.

Then start engine and (with cap still off resevoir) turn steering wheel back and forth 6 times. Typically this sucks in a little more fluid. Not sure why, but probably because the pump is actively powered on. Fluid level in resevoir will probably drop ½ quart or less. Then fill resevoir to proper level using however much of the last ½ quart of new oil needed.

We knew we'd done a good job because instructions I got from Google said the PS system capacity for this car is almost 2 quarts. We put a full 2 quarts in it and arrived at correct fill level. So we knew we'd removed all the old oil. Also, each time we sucked out the resevoir we put that oil into a different clear plastic container. We could see each container had cleaner looking oil than the prior time. The last time we sucked out oil it looked like new oil.

This whole process only took him 30 min. The keys to getting it done fast in 1 go is a suction tool and jacking front wheels off ground so you can easily turn steering lock to lock (even with engine off).

 

[50yr Street Mech]

Been using the " Turkey Baster" method for years ...( like 50 yrs ). Then I bought that gigantic syringe / grease gun thing you were just describing. It was cheap too ! Definitely faster, no doubt. A bit messier though. Fluid tends to drip/leak from hose end before you can swing it over to a catch pan/bottle. Almost the same method though. Wheels off the ground,etc. I keep engine running and watch reservoir. When I see the fluid starting to get bubbles, I quick shut down engine before pump starts " crying". Add new fluid and keep repeating until clean. I replace fluid with whatever the manual says to use, or the top of the p/s cap says to use. Just so happens to be Dexron III Cheap "run of the mill" ATF. Do this once a year, regardless of mileage. No problems with p/s system on this schedule.

 

[Carlostrece]

Been using the " Turkey Baster" method for years ...( like 50 yrs ). Then I bought that gigantic syringe / grease gun thing you were just describing. It was cheap too ! Definitely faster, no doubt. A bit messier though. Fluid tends to drip/leak from hose end before you can swing it over to a catch pan/bottle. Almost the same method though. Wheels off the ground,etc. I keep engine running and watch reservoir. When I see the fluid starting to get bubbles, I quick shut down engine before pump starts " crying". Add new fluid and keep repeating until clean. I replace fluid with whatever the manual says to use, or the top of the p/s cap says to use. Just so happens to be Dexron III Cheap "run of the mill" ATF. Do this once a year, regardless of mileage. No problems with p/s system on this schedule.

My cousin put a finger tip over end of hose when he pulls it out. Then no drips. He was wearing a glove. So he didn't even get any oil on his finger tip.

We couldn't keep engine running the whole time because the engine oil and coolant were both draining while he was changing power steering fluid. So he had engine off while sucking out PS fluid, refilling, and turning the steering wheel back and forth. Even with engine off it was still easy enough to turn steering wheel because front wheels were off the ground.

After the motor oil and filter changed, and radiator refilled, and PS fluid resevoir refilled, then he turned on engine and turned steering wheel back and forth 6 more times, which dropped the PS fluid level ½ quart in resevoir. He then added another ½ quart PS fluid. Done.

Our method allowed us to change 3 fluids at the same time. The PS fluid change took zero time because the 30 min he spent changing PS fluid was time we already had to wait for other things to drain.

However, if changing PS fluid is the only task you're doing, then your method of having engine running during the entire PS fluid change process would make it slightly easier and faster when turning steering wheel lock to lock 6 times after each refill of PS fluid resevoir.

Your method is best if the PS fluid change is the only task you're doing at the time. Our method is best for multitasking, IMO.

Multitasking is great as long as you remember NOT to turn engine on before motor oil is refilled. I confess my memory is not very reliable, but my cousin's memory is good. So it worked for us.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

Thanks for the reply Sounds like you guys were running a pit area at a Nascar Race ..LOL !! I work solo now. When I was younger I had a small " Pit" team. 3 guys total. But, ( DUH MOMENT ), I should have put my stupid finger on the hose, and I was wearing nitrile gloves. Oh well. Just a " Senior Moment" Thanks for helping to get the cobwebs out of my head . Will use finger next go round. Now, if I can just remember where I put a lot of my tools, and other nick-nacks I use on cars. Sux to start getting old

 

[Carlostrece]

Thanks for the reply Sounds like you guys were running a pit area at a Nascar Race ..LOL !! I work solo now. When I was younger I had a small " Pit" team. 3 guys total. But, ( DUH MOMENT ), I should have put my stupid finger on the hose, and I was wearing nitrile gloves. Oh well. Just a " Senior Moment" Thanks for helping to get the cobwebs out of my head . Will use finger next go round. Now, if I can just remember where I put a lot of my tools, and other nick-nacks I use on cars. Sux to start getting old

My cousin did all the physical work. All I could do was watch because I'm too handicapped to do the physical work. I'm getting old and also my neck was broken in a car accident 15 years ago and a bunch of other injuries that never fully healed. So I do the research and buy the supplies. He provides the labor and he has some knowledge and skills. I also have some knowledge and skills from my earlier years when I used to change fluids myself. Plus I'm good at getting info online to supplement and/or update our knowledge. BITOG members and Youtube DIY videos are a big help.

So we kind of had a pit stop going by changing 3 fluids at same time, but my cousin was juggling those 3 tasks.

While he works, if he has questions about anything, I look it up online on my phone. Usually at BITOG or Youtube "How to DIY" videos. I bought a Haynes paper maintenance book, but the Internet is often faster and more detailed.

We maintain my Buick fluids and filters; and now also (as a good deed) two neighbor women's cars because they also help me. My cousin also sometimes does basic mechanical work on my Buick. In the past he replaced my coils, plugwires, and plugs.