Possible Oil Dilution In Skyactiv G (Yaris)

Do you think the 0W-20 is lacking protection? Is it just for mpg vs longevity?
Yes, and yes to both questions. These manufacturers "recommend" these thin oils to cut down on rotational resistance of the engine. Thereby increasing their CAFE mileage stats. You as an individual driver will never see a difference mileage wise. But a fleet of millions of vehicles over years, will see a slight increase. Enough to up their CAFE ratings. All of which translate into $$$$ for the automaker. Not longevity for the engines their consumers are paying for.

Remember all the manufacturer cares about, is the engine lives with minimal issues until it passes through the warranty period. I can't think of a single engine that wouldn't be better served, lubrication wise, with 0W-30, than it would with 0W-20. The only exception would be in all but Arctic freezing conditions in the dead of Winter.

I used to believe the Chrysler 5.7 HEMI V-8 had to use 5W-20 because of it's VVT and MDS Systems. However now I am in serious doubt about that as well. Because I have researched it, and found there are in fact MANY people running these engines with 5W-30, as well as 0W-40 in them, without any ill effects, or codes being thrown by the ECM. I'm going to switch to 0W-40 in my 5.7 HEMI this Summer from the 5W-20 it has been getting.
 
Yes, and yes to both questions. These manufacturers "recommend" these thin oils to cut down on rotational resistance of the engine. Thereby increasing their CAFE mileage stats. You as an individual driver will never see a difference mileage wise. But a fleet of millions of vehicles over years, will see a slight increase. Enough to up their CAFE ratings. All of which translate into $$$$ for the automaker. Not longevity for the engines their consumers are paying for.

Remember all the manufacturer cares about, is the engine lives with minimal issues until it passes through the warranty period. I can't think of a single engine that wouldn't be better served, lubrication wise, with 0W-30, than it would with 0W-20. The only exception would be in all but Arctic freezing conditions in the dead of Winter.

I used to believe the Chrysler 5.7 HEMI V-8 had to use 5W-20 because of it's VVT and MDS Systems. However now I am in serious doubt about that as well. Because I have researched it, and found there are in fact MANY people running these engines with 5W-30, as well as 0W-40 in them, without any ill effects, or codes being thrown by the ECM. I'm going to switch to 0W-40 in my 5.7 HEMI this Summer from the 5W-20 it has been getting.
This rings true to me. Thanks, and 5W-30 is coming in next :)
 
I'm changing my oil early (1500 mile oci) in my wife's Yaris, which has added 6mm to the top of the dip stick marker since the last oil change, from fuel dilution. I'm asking the garage to leave a half quart out of this next oil change, so the level isn't running high all winter. Better slightly under-filled than over- filled, right?
 
I'm changing my oil early (1500 mile oci) in my wife's Yaris, which has added 6mm to the top of the dip stick marker since the last oil change, from fuel dilution. I'm asking the garage to leave a half quart out of this next oil change, so the level isn't running high all winter. Better slightly under-filled than over- filled, right?


I would not do that. I doubt the garage would do that either.

6mm is 0.2 inches. Nothing to worry about.
 
So in essence, we are to take that upper most mark on the dipstick without concern? In this case it seems to represent one cup of oil/fluid. I tend to worry less if it were low by that much, though neither seems dangerous.
 
Having your oil at the FULL mark gives you a definitive reference to any addition or loss.

What is the sump capacity on that SkyActiv?
 
4.3 Liter or about 4.6 quarts.
I'd love to have my oil AT the full mark, on the dot, but it creeps up the stick each week until it's well above it. It begins each oil change right on the top mark. (hence my 'plan' to go from half down up towards the top mark instead).
 
Anyone have experience with these "oil catch cans" I am seeing videos of all over YouTube where these guys are installing these "kit type" of what they call either an oil / fuel seaparator or an oil catch can... First time I ever heard or seen anyone using these on new modern type of vehicles. Have heard of them for racing motors etc.... On current / newer engines they look faily simple to install and should be just as easy to remove if necessary at some point.

ECS Tuning Baffled Oil Catch Can System​

Everything needed to keep your intake tract clean and oil free!
Oil separators, or catch cans, can prevent potential oil buildup in the intake manifold of direct-injected engines. What Causes Oil in the Intake Manifold? As the combustion process occurs in the cylinder, some of the air can leak past the piston. When the air goes past the piston and into the crankcase, it’s called blowby.
aluminum-oil-catch-can-large-84__12227.1612793536(1).jpg
 
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Anyone have experience with these "oil catch cans" I am seeing videos of all over YouTube where these guys are installing these "kit type" of what they call either an oil / fuel seaparator or an oil catch can... First time I ever heard or seen anyone using these on new modern type of vehicles. Have heard of them for racing motors etc.... On current / newer engines they look faily simple to install and should be just as easy to remove if necessary at some point.

ECS Tuning Baffled Oil Catch Can System​

Everything needed to keep your intake tract clean and oil free!
Oil separators, or catch cans, can prevent potential oil buildup in the intake manifold of direct-injected engines. What Causes Oil in the Intake Manifold? As the combustion process occurs in the cylinder, some of the air can leak past the piston. When the air goes past the piston and into the crankcase, it’s called not
It’s not going to help with fuel delusion, but it might keep a little bit of oil out of your intake manifold, and in theory, prevent the valves from coming up on a direct injection motor. But that’s debatable too. I’ve used one before on a 2018 Silverado, I would “catch” a fair amount of oil over a period of time...was it worth it? I don’t know. It also caught condensation, and in theory condensation/water actually cleans valves (depending on the temperature and amount). So, I’m not really sure if it helped anything, and in the winter time it was a pain because it would fill up more quickly because if the condensation and freeze. And if that can gets full, freezes, and blocks the PCV system, you’re in trouble.

So, I think they serve a purpose but I don’t think it’s as big a purpose as people think for most engines. But I don’t see a problem with them if you’re willing to consistently empty them.
 
4.3 Liter or about 4.6 quarts.
I'd love to have my oil AT the full mark, on the dot, but it creeps up the stick each week until it's well above it. It begins each oil change right on the top mark. (hence my 'plan' to go from half down up towards the top mark instead).
Less oil = higher % of fuel in the oil due to dilution. Unless you plan on adding less oil and doing oil changes way before due.

My dad bought a CX-30 in June. Last week he had all of 1500 miles on the car. He checks oil frequently and said it is where it was (or 1 mm lower) than the top dot. So, I guess his doesn't show dilution. He only short trips, I asked him to add a long drive once in a while.
 
Less oil = higher % of fuel in the oil due to dilution. Unless you plan on adding less oil and doing oil changes way before due.

My dad bought a CX-30 in June. Last week he had all of 1500 miles on the car. He checks oil frequently and said it is where it was (or 1 mm lower) than the top dot. So, I guess his doesn't show dilution. He only short trips, I asked him to add a long drive once in a while.
That long drive once in a while is a great idea with all vehicles. Gotta get all those fluids up to normal temps and flowing. Worst thing anyone can ever do a car is to NOT USE it. ;)
 
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