Possible fuel pump going bad?

[NavyVet88]

2013 Honda civic LX 1.8L 158k

So the last couple of months the civic has started sputtering upon initial acceleration after starting. If it's a cold start with only 30 secs to two mins of idle warm up time, it will sputter for a few seconds until it hits about 30 mph and then drives just fine after hitting operating temperature. But....if I crank it up and let it idle until it reaches operating temperature, it will not sputter at all when accelerating. The sputter is only noticed when it is under operating temp after a cold start and does not sputter at all afterward. Cold start "take off" basically. My mpg has dropped off from 43 mpg to 36, but that happened before the sputter issue and I figured it was due to the mileage on the car seeing as it is driving 100 miles round trip daily.

Is this a fuel pump going bad? I looked up a fuel filter but it only gives me results for the fuel pump module assembly.

No check engine light at this time either.

 

[zrxkawboy]

I would not think it would be the fuel pump, but I have no experience with late-model Hondas.

 

[NavyVet88]

I just don't want to be stranded on the side of the road because of a failure of some sorts. My career is based on preventative maintenance and I always do everything in my power to carry that into my personal life especially with my vehicles. I don't have a CEL to plug into for a code, my local auto shop told me that can't do anything without a CEL to check a code for, and it just really sucks. I've done the trouble shooting that I know to do at this point.

 

[M1Accord]

Try looking at main fuel replay module located under the steering column and next to the OB connector. My Accord didn't want to start sometime and Inthouht it was either starter or fuel pump but it turned out to be that $50 module. It is easy to replace if you have the right tools and are extremely flexible.

By the way, I had AZ and AAP run check on starter and battery and they told me two separate things that they wanted to sell me so those places are junk.

 

[92saturnsl2]

There might be a pending code in there that hasn't set the CEL yet. You can still plug in a code reader and most will show any pending codes if there are any.

I could see how a fuel pump could cause this kind of issue, since the engine is using substantially more fuel when the engine is cold. I have had a couple instances where a fuel pump was weak. The problems (stuttering like you mention) would only show up under WOT or heavy acceleration, and never set a CEL. I was only able determine it was the pump by hooking up a scanner and monitoring fuel trims real time- It showed very lean fuel trims (not lean enough to set a code) and ECU was pulling a LOT of timing (presumably to combat spark knock) very suddenly, causing the stutter. If you suspect the fuel pump you can check fuel pressure pretty easily with a DIY gauge. The problem with only checking fuel pressure is that it will probably read fine at idle-- you might need an assistant to put a load on the engine while you read the gauge. That is how is I narrowed my fuel pump problem down. Fuel trims told me it was a fuel issue, then reading fuel pressure under load, it would dive down to 20-30 PSI instead of the expected ~55 psi.

If you don't already have one, invest $15 in a bluetooth OBD2 adapter and the Android Torque app (or equivalent Iphone app). You can monitor fuel trims yourself (and tons of other useful info) which will give you a MUCH bigger picture of what might be going. CEL codes can only tell you so much. Any mechanic worth their salt should be able to do this for you and not require a CEL to be on... How is the car at WOT?

 

[NavyVet88]

Well at 75-85 mph there's no issues. Granted that's not the wot

Also I plugged my code reader in and no codes

 

[fdcg27]

Not sure that it's entirely relevant, but I've never replaced a fuel pump on an FI Honda including the Gen 5 Accord I ran to 207K before selling it.
This sounds more like an ignition problem than a fuel one.
Are the spark plug tubes entirely dry and free of oil?

 

[irad]

Had a car drop mpg, this year, and the fuel pump went in two weeks. Could also be a weak ignition coil or maf, but you would probably feel an occasional miss. Cleaning the maf sensor is a cheap thing to try.

 

[Driz]

Might be the pressure regulator going too. I've had a lot of Hondas and never touched a pump and I ran them all to death. I'd get the pump pressure checked before spending any money on parts. That's stone simple using a gauge on the schrader valve of the fuel rail. I'd change the fuel filter before doing anything straight off though. If there was anything electrical going on I would think it would toss codes.

 

[Chris142]

My guess is a weaping head gasket. It floods the plug till the coolant gets pumped out.

 

[Revving2Redline]

Check rear 02 sensor.Sounds lazy to me.

 

[CT8]

Originally Posted by NavyVet88
I just don't want to be stranded on the side of the road because of a failure of some sorts. My career is based on preventative maintenance and I always do everything in my power to carry that into my personal life especially with my vehicles. I don't have a CEL to plug into for a code, my local auto shop told me that can't do anything without a CEL to check a code for, and it just really sucks. I've done the trouble shooting that I know to do at this point.
Get a better shop.

 

[PPWarrior]

Have you checked your throttle body?

 

[Lubener]

Originally Posted by Driz
Might be the pressure regulator going too. I've had a lot of Hondas and never touched a pump and I ran them all to death. I'd get the pump pressure checked before spending any money on parts. That's stone simple using a gauge on the schrader valve of the fuel rail. I'd change the fuel filter before doing anything straight off though. If there was anything electrical going on I would think it would toss codes.

Fuel pressure regulator will keep the fuel pressure from going too high. Will typically show its symptoms more when engine is warm not a cold start where you need more fuel to start. Fuel trims will swing way to the negative side too. I would suggest fuel pressure be checked as the pressure could be on the low side.