Polyurethane Suspension Bushings

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The lower control arm bushings on my 1999 Toyota Sienna are shot. Although all the on-line OEM parts dealers show that the bushings themselves are available for $20, apparently they've been discontinued by Toyota and are no longer available. The only thing you can do is buy the whole control arm for $130 apice (that's online, the local dealer wants $180).

OK, so I search online and find that aftermarket parts are made but they are polyurethane:

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/search/?product=W0133-1622446&image.x=32&image.y=8

A *lot* of people say that polyurethane bushings squeak like mad after a while and that rubber ones are the only way to go. But it means the difference between approximately $110 and $260+.

Anyone have any experience with polyurethane bushings? Any comments and help are appreciated.
 
Did a complete rebuild of my 70 Olds 442/W30 with polyurethane bushings. Made a big difference in the way it handled and felt.
I would say you will like the poly bushings. No noise that I can tell.

40ford
 
Poly bushings are excellent. There are certain companies (like Prothane) that make versions that are impregnated with graphite to prevent the noise. Others are greaseable like my Energy Suspension ones.
 
Yup. If you get the graphite impregnated bushing you are good to go. I had poly bushings on one of my track/street cars and they were annoying.
 
I have them in my 98 Yukon on the upper and lower control arms, rear leaf bushings and the body bushings. I installed them with plenty of the supplied silicone grease. No problems or noise yet.
 
I like poly bushings in certain areas. In other areas they will cause binding issues. They will eventually become noise unless they are greasable. The graphite impregenated ones are no quieter than the regular ones. I have used the energy suspension and the prothane ones. I have used the black and the red in both manufactures. The reason the bushings arent availble because as a shop it is much more cost efficent to get a whole arm than to play with pressing the bushings. Is their a ball joint on the arm??
 
+1 to what RH+G said. it is not cost effective for a shop to change bushings, especially when you are over $100 an hour.

properly lubed, the poly bushings will be fine. i had Delrin and solid aluminum bushings in my mustang with no ill effects.
 
Keeping them lubed is going to be a problem.
They are highly loaded, and any grease squeezes out.
Grease fittings? Some work if there are grooves to capture and route the grease in the interior of the poly.
If they are not there, put them there. A dremel tool is handy. Even without a grease fitting, I'd groove them if the factory didn't. Look at pictures f grooved ones on the internet to see what you can copy - it's common sense stuff.
A rubber bushing is tight - it flexes. A poly bushing has movement of the bushing in relation to the steel sleeve or bolt.
There are special greases for these bushings, but a modern synthetic wheel bearing grease works just as well.
 
Originally Posted By: RH+G
I like poly bushings in certain areas. In other areas they will cause binding issues. They will eventually become noise unless they are greasable. The graphite impregenated ones are no quieter than the regular ones. I have used the energy suspension and the prothane ones. I have used the black and the red in both manufactures.

Agree with above. They have their place but the control arm is not a good place for them.
 
Urethane shouldn't bind in a front control arm, especially on a dual A-arm suspension. (pivot points are parallel)
A multi-link rear suspension like a late-model Mustang will have binding issues.
 
Yes, they bind on the rear modified 4-link on the Fox bodies and SN95 chassis cars. I had the Lakewood control arms and had this issue.
 
The grease [if any was ever there] eventually goes to grease heaven from being squished out and from water migration in. They will stick/squeak/wear if not babied.
 
I appreciate everyone's input on this. Just to close, I ended up buying whole new arms ($130 each) from an online Toyota dealer. In the end, given the way these particular bushings flex I was convinced that the rubber was better than the polyurethane. Even given the substantial price differential.

I also think these new arms have a redesigned bushing in them, there was a part number roll and the dealer said they were different. So I'll see if that is true when they arrive.
 
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