I recently purchased a SS exhaust system that came unpolished. I would like to do something with the tip section to at least polish it up and then clear coat it before install. Any ideas? I believe its like 409 SS vs. 304 but can't be certain as its a PYPES SS exhaust system made in China so who knows.
Polishing unfinished SS
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You can use something as simple as Mother's mag polish and 0000 steel wool to get a great finish. There is a school of thought that the wool can leave carbon steel behind to rust, but I have never found that to be the case if you rinse and wash it afterwards. Alternatively you can use copper wool or a scotch brite pad. I would not bother clear-coating as it would look great, be durable when polished, and easy to touch-up if you ever want.
If it was cheap it is most likely T409, I wouldn't waste energy polishing T409.
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409 will be slightly magnetic, 304 or any 300 series is NOT magnetic at all.
If you use steel wool, you will be embedding steel particles into the surface; it WILL rust, however small the spots.
What is done in fabrication shops is to color code the grinding/sanding wheels. If you have new, unused sanding/grinding wheels or sheets, it does not matter what alloy they are used on; carbon steel, stainless steel, aluminum, titanium, hastelloy, etc., once they have been used on a particular alloy, they have that alloy embedded into them for the same reason that you cannot get all the sawdust off of sandpaper that you have used.
Use new sandpaper of whatever grit you choose. The fastest way to polish is to start with a coarser grit and work your way to finer. Personally, I would hire it done or purchase already polished tips, they are not that expensive.
Certified Welding Inspector.
If you use steel wool, you will be embedding steel particles into the surface; it WILL rust, however small the spots.
What is done in fabrication shops is to color code the grinding/sanding wheels. If you have new, unused sanding/grinding wheels or sheets, it does not matter what alloy they are used on; carbon steel, stainless steel, aluminum, titanium, hastelloy, etc., once they have been used on a particular alloy, they have that alloy embedded into them for the same reason that you cannot get all the sawdust off of sandpaper that you have used.
Use new sandpaper of whatever grit you choose. The fastest way to polish is to start with a coarser grit and work your way to finer. Personally, I would hire it done or purchase already polished tips, they are not that expensive.
Certified Welding Inspector.
How about Flitz? Or a combo of Flitz and 0000 steel wool?
I have never polished stainless steel, so my recommendation is worth all you are paying for it. I would think that it is similar to polishing any other surface. You make a guess as to which is the lowest amount of abrasive action you need in a product (paper,pad, wheel, compound, or whatever) and adjust as needed. Move to a less abrasive product towards the finish process.
I found this overpriced product to work well on aluminum:
http://www.simichrome-polish.com/
BITOG member Widman has a good paper on the subject:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=6&ved=0ahUKEwix247em6XNAhVKO1IKHdyyB68QFgg8MAU&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.widman.biz%2Fuploads%2FPolishing_Stainless.pdf&usg=AFQjCNHX8xERJ72gKnJXzc5pyT5BDeAnYg&cad=rja
I found this overpriced product to work well on aluminum:
http://www.simichrome-polish.com/
BITOG member Widman has a good paper on the subject:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=6&ved=0ahUKEwix247em6XNAhVKO1IKHdyyB68QFgg8MAU&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.widman.biz%2Fuploads%2FPolishing_Stainless.pdf&usg=AFQjCNHX8xERJ72gKnJXzc5pyT5BDeAnYg&cad=rja
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
How about Flitz? Or a combo of Flitz and 0000 steel wool?
I used the Flitz but it did not do much. I have heard that if I used steel wool the tiny metal particles left behind will cause rust to occur.
How about Flitz? Or a combo of Flitz and 0000 steel wool?
I used the Flitz but it did not do much. I have heard that if I used steel wool the tiny metal particles left behind will cause rust to occur.
Originally Posted By: 007
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
How about Flitz? Or a combo of Flitz and 0000 steel wool?
I used the Flitz but it did not do much. I have heard that if I used steel wool the tiny metal particles left behind will cause rust to occur.
That's the downside to steel wool if you don't do a bang-up job cleaning up after using it. I've used steel wool with a thin coat of Kroil to polish metal with good results, and then wiped everything clean with a thin coat of oil, and then a dry rag. If you have a scrap you might want to experiment with that method. You could also try a thin oil, like 3 in 1 oil if you don't have Kroil.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
How about Flitz? Or a combo of Flitz and 0000 steel wool?
I used the Flitz but it did not do much. I have heard that if I used steel wool the tiny metal particles left behind will cause rust to occur.
That's the downside to steel wool if you don't do a bang-up job cleaning up after using it. I've used steel wool with a thin coat of Kroil to polish metal with good results, and then wiped everything clean with a thin coat of oil, and then a dry rag. If you have a scrap you might want to experiment with that method. You could also try a thin oil, like 3 in 1 oil if you don't have Kroil.
Seems the SS used in my exhaust has inherent off color lines (not small) in its finish that run the length of the pipe. Just finished using my orbital polisher with rubbing, polishing compound followed by actual metal polish. Finish came out almost scratch free and glass like but those lines are now more prevalent. Gonna put the system on the car the way it is and see how it looks. If I still do not like it I will add polished tips at a later date.
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