Place for Trailers and anything about them

Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Messages
1,452
Location
SW Missouri
Would it be possible to create a section for all things trailer related? Seems there’s a trailer post every few days. Most of these are scattered through the forum. I for one own several from a single axle utility to OTR dry vans. Seems like there’s always something to do on one of them. This could include reviews, maintenance, literally anything trailer related.
 
I second this.

I have a 2008 "Snowbear" hot-dip galvanized utility trailer. Strangely, 94" x 54" deck (2" shy of 8') but with a drop-front to be able to take 4 x 8 sheets. Has a Dexter 2000# axle, 5.30 x 12 tires. Very convenient pulling it behind my '99 Camry.

Poorboy suspension tho... without rear shackles... just a "slipper" rear leaf spring support. I imagine I ought to grease those bearing surfaces at interval...

One thing I would like to add - is an appropriate thickness of flatwasher under the castlated nuts - 'cuz those nuts bear directly on the outer wheel bearings' inner races. Lousy adjustment properties with my nuts; 'hafta run 'em a bit too slack for my liking.
 

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Feel free to ask if you ever have any questions. I work on these things daily.
Oh good I appreciate it. I was trying to figure out the best way to punch holes in a mudflap without like destroying it or whatever because the mud flap fell off so we turned it around and drilled some holes in it because that’s what the trailer shop said to do. I was going to ask mainly is it important to stick grade 8 bolts back in there? The bolts we took out were grade 8 but the bolts we got since some were gone are grade 5 since we couldn’t find any grade 8 bolts in town that were the ones we needed. The only thing they told us at the shop was drill holes and put bolts in it or bring it to us.
 
Oh good I appreciate it. I was trying to figure out the best way to punch holes in a mudflap without like destroying it or whatever because the mud flap fell off so we turned it around and drilled some holes in it because that’s what the trailer shop said to do. I was going to ask mainly is it important to stick grade 8 bolts back in there? The bolts we took out were grade 8 but the bolts we got since some were gone are grade 5 since we couldn’t find any grade 8 bolts in town that were the ones we needed. The only thing they told us at the shop was drill holes and put bolts in it or bring it to us.
I use a regular drill and bit but a Couple sizes larger than the bolts I’m using. When I build a bracket I try to use 1/4” bolts because they will break easily rather than damage the bracket if the flap gets pinched. Most of my fleet was built with 3/8 bolts and the bolt kits I sold when I worked in parts were 5/16. There isn’t really a standard. Also I wouldn’t use grade 8 for the reason I mentioned above but you’ll see them a lot because most truck dealers only stock grade 8/10.9 hardware.
 
I use a regular drill and bit but a Couple sizes larger than the bolts I’m using. When I build a bracket I try to use 1/4” bolts because they will break easily rather than damage the bracket if the flap gets pinched. Most of my fleet was built with 3/8 bolts and the bolt kits I sold when I worked in parts were 5/16. There isn’t really a standard. Also I wouldn’t use grade 8 for the reason I mentioned above but you’ll see them a lot because most truck dealers only stock grade 8/10.9 hardware.
Great information. The bolts are 5/16x1 inch I believe is what they were and take a 1/2 socket. I drilled the same as the bolt shank size or at least pretty close. Should I take that off a redo it a little bigger then? And also the bolts were pretty seized would it be ok to put anti seize on them? I know I’m sure they vibrate a lot so don’t want them vibrating loose.
 
Great information. The bolts are 5/16x1 inch I believe is what they were and take a 1/2 socket. I drilled the same as the bolt shank size or at least pretty close. Should I take that off a redo it a little bigger then? And also the bolts were pretty seized would it be ok to put anti seize on them? I know I’m sure they vibrate a lot so don’t want them vibrating loose.
I generally use locknuts however I suppose you could put some antisieze on them if you wanted. In the trucking industry time is money and I remove them either with an impact wrench or 9” grinder. They either come loose, snap off or get cut. Your hole size is fine, I usually drill larger so I don’t struggle getting the bolts through the rubber as some of the mud flaps can be very difficult to force bolts through.
 
I generally use locknuts however I suppose you could put some antisieze on them if you wanted. In the trucking industry time is money and I remove them either with an impact wrench or 9” grinder. They either come loose, snap off or get cut. Your hole size is fine, I usually drill larger so I don’t struggle getting the bolts through the rubber as some of the mud flaps can be very difficult to force bolts through.
Great. I appreciate the information. It didn’t have lock nuts on the rest of them so I just got regular ones like it had on there it’s a 2017 model Hyandai trailer so I was surprised at how seized they were on there but he also does a lot of running to the rust belt and stuff so that’s probably the reason. Fortunately none broke and I could use hand tools my Porter Cable impact wouldn’t take them off lol. I’ll dab some anti seize on there then to prevent that from happening or maybe some loctite.
 
Oh yeah looking back at the pictures of the bolts now it did have lock nuts lol. And I got lock nuts to put back on there. 😁. I had totally forgotten I was thinking of the bolts for my other project, I might still use a little anti seize since they were hard to break loose. I cleaned up the threads with a wire brush.
 
I second this.

I have a 2008 "Snowbear" hot-dip galvanized utility trailer. Strangely, 94" x 54" deck (2" shy of 8') but with a drop-front to be able to take 4 x 8 sheets. Has a Dexter 2000# axle, 5.30 x 12 tires. Very convenient pulling it behind my '99 Camry.

Poorboy suspension tho... without rear shackles... just a "slipper" rear leaf spring support. I imagine I ought to grease those bearing surfaces at interval...

One thing I would like to add - is an appropriate thickness of flatwasher under the castlated nuts - 'cuz those nuts bear directly on the outer wheel bearings' inner races. Lousy adjustment properties with my nuts; 'hafta run 'em a bit too slack for my liking.
That is an interesting little trailer. I’m guessing by the name it is intended to haul snowmobiles? It looks similar to a Uhaul trailer
 
Nah... The now-defunct Company name was SnowBear. I believe it was located near Toronto Ontario. They used to mfr snowplow attachments for pick-up trucks, landscaping trailers, utility trailers, etc. I bought this one as one of the last ones sold through the Cdn Home Depot stores in 2008. I think they found it hard to compete in the marketplace. What attracted me was the relatively thick steel construction that clearly was hot-dip galvanized. The necessity to at-interval paint a non galvanized trailer did not appeal to me. Nor did the thin-metal / very light galvanizing or the treated plywood decks of other trailers evident at the time...

'Real happy with this one 🙂.
 
I second this.

I have a 2008 "Snowbear" hot-dip galvanized utility trailer. Strangely, 94" x 54" deck (2" shy of 8') but with a drop-front to be able to take 4 x 8 sheets. Has a Dexter 2000# axle, 5.30 x 12 tires. Very convenient pulling it behind my '99 Camry.

Poorboy suspension tho... without rear shackles... just a "slipper" rear leaf spring support. I imagine I ought to grease those bearing surfaces at interval...

One thing I would like to add - is an appropriate thickness of flatwasher under the castlated nuts - 'cuz those nuts bear directly on the outer wheel bearings' inner races. Lousy adjustment properties with my nuts; 'hafta run 'em a bit too slack for my liking.
Nice looking trailer.

I keep wondering what will replace my HF 4x8 trailer. I keep thinking I'll retire it but lately it gets used around the yard mostly. Found out this summer that I can get replacement bearings off Amazon (instead of ordering from HF); it takes metric bearings and locally they are not cheap. Well, as cheap as I'd care to pay for. I try to keep a spare set on the shelf as I keep forgetting to go through them yearly and when I do check I'll find water damage--I don't think I've always had a seal on hand to replace the old one, although I think it somehow gets water in anyhow.
 
Admins please feel free to lock this thread if you wish. Should you decide/not decide to add an additional trailer section it doesn’t need to be discussed further in my opinion.
 
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