Pit stop for 2000 GMC Sierra @ 75,000 miles.

[mrsilv04]

2000 GMC Sierra, 5.3 V8, Extended cab w/ 2 wheel drive, 75,000 miles. Service history prior to 2004 (and 38,000 miles) is unknown.

It needs a good visit to the mechanic.


Here's what I have on my list:

Replace spark plugs (may be the factory ones).

Replace shocks (are the factory ones).

Inspect brakes. Replace pads and turn rotors if necessary. Bleed system with fresh fluid.

Inspect front end. Replace components as necessary. Realign front end (tires are wearing on both the inner and outer edges).

Change transmission fluid and filter. (I don't think it has ever been changed since new.) Is 7 years and 75k too late to start? Or is it better to leave it alone at this point?


What am I overlooking? What should be added to this list? All recall work has been completed on the truck.

I do the small work myself... oil and coolant changes, filters, belt, rotate tires.

 

[benjamming]

Originally Posted By: mrsilv04
Change transmission fluid and filter. (I don't think it has ever been changed since new.) Is 7 years and 75k too late to start? Or is it better to leave it alone at this point?


It's not too late. Change the fluid & filter as you have said. Now, the real question is what fluid & filter are you going to use? Do you tow much?

 

[JHZR2]

why do the shocks.. really necessary?

Otherwise looks like a good plan. Id also at least drain the radiator and refresh the dex-cool chemistry. Diff should be serviced unless it has been domne in the last 50k miles, and likely you should look at your serpentine belt and tensioner.

JMH

 

[The Critic]

Replace the spark plugs with the correct NGK plugs. Beware that NGK does have several types of Platinum and Iridum plugs. Some are marketed for performance and some are designed for longevity. Make sure you get the right ones.

It's not too late to change the transmission fluid and filter. Use Dexron-VI.

Replace the serpentine belt, differential/t-case and coolant. There's no need to replace the shocks.

 

[Turk]

I had a 2000 Sierra 5.5l, now have an '03 5.3l with 120,000 on it.

Shocks should be fine!!

Get the right plugs in it.

Change the transmission fluid.

Bleed the brakes.

Other important stuff.....:

Suck out the P.S. Fluid & put in new. DO NOT put in Syntec fluid!!

Check/Change the Air Filter

"DeCarbonize" the Intake System!!

Let us know what ya did...

 

[meep]

grease fittings on suspension and driveline if ya got-em.

Inspect A/C drain

R/R cabin air filters if ya got 'em.

Inspect battery cables at both ends for cleanliness and tightness.

Coolant change? Drive belts?

Check pressure in spare. (car has the jack and lug wrench, yes?)

 

[HawkeyeScott]

I agree with the ATF change. Never too late to put in fresh fluid.

Can you get to the fuel filter? That could be a cheap change if you can get to it. And take it to an O'Reilly's and get the battery tested to see how it looks.

Great plan though. You'll get 'er good as new...just broken in!

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: tpitcher

Suck out the P.S. Fluid & put in new. DO NOT put in Syntec fluid!!



Why not???

JMH

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:
why do the shocks.. really necessary?


I too question this. It's hard, without going really high $$ and with unpredictable ride quality alterations, to top OEM, imo. If I did do this preemptive change out, I would insist on OEM ..and assure that they're not just calling NAPA (whomever)...AND determine that the OEM replacements are of true OEM quality. I don't know if too many replacement shocks are built for 100k+ service lives ..regardless of what label is on them.

Naturally if you're a blinger/tuner or a spirited Euro masher, you already know the ultra high $$ aftermarket wizbang that allows you to put your ride into a bee-ewe-teefull four wheel dreeft.

 

[01rangerxl]

Monroe shocks have a lifetime warranty and are reasonably priced. I believe they are an OEM supplier too.

 

[Gary Allan]

Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
Monroe shocks have a lifetime warranty and are reasonably priced. I believe they are an OEM supplier too.


Yes, but there's no assurance that the aftermarket offering from Monroe is as good as the OEM Monroe shock. Shocks/struts appear to be one thing that OEM does very well ..at least for everything that I've bought. I'm sure someone made a vehicle with lame shocks. Your experience may have been different than mine

 

[01rangerxl]

I'm not saying that OEM shocks are at all bad or need to be replaced at 75K, but I don't think aftermarket ones are bad either.

The only aftermarket shocks I would avoid are Gabriels. You get what you pay for with those.

I like the Monroes I have on my Explorer. I replaced the previous set because there were rust holes in them. It was a necessity. I would have left them alone otherwise.

 

[Harley Anderson]

Def. do coolant change, spark plugs, transmission fluid change, and fuel filter. I just recently did all these things to a relative's 2001 4.8l chevy 1500 4x4 @ 70k miles. Coolant was nasty and sludgy, fuel filter change felt like it added 40 hp, and it idled so smooth and quiet after spark plug change. The spark plug caps can be a royal pain in the butt. The transmission shifted much smoother after a filter change and a couple drain and refills with supertech Dexron.

 

[JustinH]

I would do the diff fluid change if its the factory fluid.

I'm sure the book says 100k or more, but its good piece of mind to do the diff on a truck early.

 

[mrsilv04]

OK... lots of comments from all of you, and thanks. I have a few questions in return.

Will there be any issues in going from Dexron III to Dexron VI in the transmission? Any issues with compatibility with the seals? I'd hate to change fluids and have an issue pop up. (Looks like I need to spend some time over in the ATF forum)... The filter kit will be from NAPA or will be OEM.

The truck does pull a 7,000 pound travel trailer. We had a transmission cooler installed right after we bought it.

After reading the discussion, I'm going to stay put with the shocks. The truck does have the optional HD shock package from the factory, so I'll leave them on for another couple of years, or until a problem becomes apparent. Once that happens, I'll likely replace them with whatever is the top of the line, lifetime warranty Monroe shock at the time.

I drain and refill the radiator every other fall with Dexcool (and did so this fall), so it is good to go.

Differential fluid level is checked every fall, but has never been drained and refilled. I don't think I've ever changed diff. fluid (or PS fluid) in any of my vehicles before...

Serpentine belt is in good shape, with no issues. Just checked that a few weeks ago.

Plugs will be replaced with whatever is in there, since whatever is in there has performed just fine after 75,000 miles. I'm not big on spending several dollars each for fancy plugs when they aren't required by the manufacturer.

Air filter (Wix) and cabin filter (Wix) have both been replaced in the past 6 months.

Oil/filter/lube is done every 5,000 miles. Pennzoil Platinum 10w30 and a Wix oil filter.

Battery cables are checked every fall. Air pressure in spare is checked at least twice a year.

I'm sure the fuel filter has been changed once already, but I will verify that. If there's any question about that, we'll go ahead and change it anyway.

 

[The Critic]

Dexron-VI is the only approved service fill for GM Hydramatic transmissions at this time. Dexron-III(H) licenses have expired and the contents of the "DEX/MER equivalent" fluids are unknown and should be avoided. Dexron-VI is backwards compatible with all GM applications that previously called for Dexron-III.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: JustinH
I would do the diff fluid change if its the factory fluid.

I'm sure the book says 100k or more, but its good piece of mind to do the diff on a truck early.



My 98 Chevy manual suggested to do it the first time at 7500 miles. Most folks probably hear that from the dealer, and figure the dealer is trying to "rip them off"... theyd likely OK it if a toyota dealer suggested it.

After 7500, I cant recall the diff OCI. I Change it every 2 years, since my truck does not get the most use. My front diff shows moisture ingress in the front diff. Not so much in the rear diff, which sees a lot more use and loading.

JMH

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:
Most folks probably hear that from the dealer, and figure the dealer is trying to "rip them off"... theyd likely OK it if a toyota dealer suggested it.

Yeah. If it's a domestic design it's made for dummies that would fall for un-needed service. If it's Asian design, it's a wise investment in a quality product for a long and durable life.