[photos] Is this 110v or 220v output?

[LoneRanger]

This is at base of the meter post on a subdivision retention pond that powers fountain or aerator for the water. There is currently no fountain or aerator in the pond, this has not been used for about 6 years. We need to know whether to buy a 110v aerator for the pond or a 220 model. We want to get an aerator on the water again for algae control, mainly. But also so fish can do better in the pond.

I am guessing it outputs 110 on account of the plug looks like a household grounded 110 type. But I don't know if it could still be 220 even though it's not got the triad configuration you typically see on 220v electric clothes drier receptacles, for instance. We will have a qualified pond/lake service guy install the aerator into the pond, just have to know which voltage of aerator to buy, they come as 110 or 220.

 

[Donald]

I would say 99.9% sure its 110V.

The outlet and plug are both 110V, 220V is different in layout of the prongs.

The plug is wired within the timer. So if someone connected 220V to the timer it would burnout the timer motor.

Get a meter and check it for sure.

What is the 200A main breaker for. Its 220V for sure.

 

[dishdude]

You need a multimeter but I would put my money on 110.

 

[Zee09]

Originally Posted By: Donald
I would say 99.9% sure its 110V.


Agreed

 

[AandPDan]

It is a standard 120 volt receptacle and appears to be on a 20 amp circuit.

 

[CoolShirtDude]

That is a 200 amp 220V panel, feeding a single 20 amp 110V circuit.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Originally Posted By: CoolShirtDude
That is a 200 amp 220V panel, feeding a single 20 amp 110V circuit.
Agreed.

 

[4WD]

Originally Posted By: CoolShirtDude
That is a 200 amp 220V panel, feeding a single 20 amp 110V circuit.


Yes … you should be able to test the 20 amp breaker with a voltage meter in the GFCI plug …

 

[LoneRanger]

You guys all rock !! Thank you

 

[Trav]

110v with what appears to be a GFI outlet.

 

[goodtimes]

Also test the GFCI after verifying it's 110 or 120v. Where I am voltage is 120/240. GFCI's do go bad, have replaced mine.

 

[irad]

I'd guess 110v, the circuit breaker would be a double pole if 220v. The problem I see is the circuit breaker is 20a but the outlet looks 15a. Need to check that the wire inside is 12 gauge. If it is 14 gauge then replace the circuit breaker with a 15a breaker.
NEC 240.4(D)(3) states that 14 AWG must be protected at 15A.

 

[eljefino]

Get a night light from the dollar store. If it's super bright you have 220.

But seriously 220 will have both "eyes" squinting, or 90 degrees out from the 110 setup, in the rare 15 A outlet of similar size. (Most outlets are more than 15 amps and way more biggerer.)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector

 

[EdwardC]

Originally Posted By: irad
I'd guess 110v, the circuit breaker would be a double pole if 220v. The problem I see is the circuit breaker is 20a but the outlet looks 15a. Need to check that the wire inside is 12 gauge. If it is 14 gauge then replace the circuit breaker with a 15a breaker.
NEC 240.4(D)(3) states that 14 AWG must be protected at 15A.


Yes, worth double checking the wire like said above.


Outlet is almost certainly 110V. If it was 220V, you would see the 20A breaker take up two slots in the panel.

 

[PandaBear]

Be safe, use a multi-meter to test it out.

 

[BrocLuno]

Since it's a pond thing, I'd kill the main and pull the panel(s) and look at all the connections. Back out the clamp screws and use a wee bit of Vaseline on the threads and the wire, and reset the clamp screws so fresh metal to metal contacts, etc.

 

[CT8]

110v GFI plug

 

[sleddriver]

From the look of that timer box, I'd suggest turning all breakers to OFF, wacking the box a couple of times to see if any wasps/yellow jackets/etc. fly out, then removing the screws to have a look behind the faceplate for nests of any types, flammables (grass hanging out.), etc. Doesn't look like it's been used in awhile.

Looks like a bug hide-out from the #$%^ in the bottom.

Further, that open left hole needs a plug to prevent the above. The cord-hole also needs covered to prevent same. Those plug prongs could use a wire-brushing as well.

If you're not familiar with this, you need an electrician who is.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: sleddriver
From the look of that timer box, I'd suggest turning all breakers to OFF, wacking the box a couple of times to see if any wasps/yellow jackets/etc. fly out, then removing the screws to have a look behind the faceplate for nests of any types, flammables (grass hanging out.), etc. Doesn't look like it's been used in awhile.

Looks like a bug hide-out from the #$%^ in the bottom.

Further, that open left hole needs a plug to prevent the above. The cord-hole also needs covered to prevent same. Those plug prongs could use a wire-brushing as well.

If you're not familiar with this, you need an electrician who is.


+1 Great advice.

I'd look behind it to see what kind of wire is feeding the main breaker. It may not be a 200 amp service feeding the 20amp circuit. That may just be the box they used to hold everything. I would want to know what gauge wires are feeding that.

I would clean it up and seal it up as suggested above.

 

[Wolf359]

Originally Posted By: irad
I'd guess 110v, the circuit breaker would be a double pole if 220v. The problem I see is the circuit breaker is 20a but the outlet looks 15a. Need to check that the wire inside is 12 gauge. If it is 14 gauge then replace the circuit breaker with a 15a breaker.
NEC 240.4(D)(3) states that 14 AWG must be protected at 15A.


Spot on. But it's code to use a 15 amp duplex outlet with a 20 amp circuit. In theory you could pull 15a from one outlet and 5 from the other or any other combination. You just can't pull more than 15 out of each outlet. If you got a 20 amp outlet, then in theory you could pull 20 amps out of one outlet.