Permatex Seal + Lock thread compound real world cure time

[The Critic]

https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/tech_docs/tds/57535.pdf

I used this product to reseal my truck’s leaking engine oil temp sensor. The TDS says 72 hr for full cure but I recognize that full cure isn’t always needed for returning to service. I don’t think the circuit will ever see more than 60 psi. Any real-world experience on what I can get away with?

 

[The Critic]

Also, I think this is a brass sensor that is being screwed into an iron block. Both of these are active metals?

 

[RooflessVW]

I'd give it 6-12.

More or less overnight. It's tapered brass, after all.

 

[The Critic]

I'd give it 6-12.

More or less overnight. It's tapered brass, after all.

Sounds like a plan. I combined this repair with an oil change so the crankcase is currently empty. I’ll refill tomorrow morning and hopefully it works.

 

[Timmastertech]

that would get as long as it took me to put whatever I took apart for access back together before I hit the key if it was in my shop. Hell, on a coolant temp sensor I generally dont even drain the coolant. You are really overthinking this Mike.

 

[AutoMechanic]

That stuff works great. I use it on everything that requires thread sealant. I’d wait overnight on it to fully cure. That’s what I do.

 

[MattPersman]

I’m with Tim we just put it on and move on. No worries about cure time

 

[The Critic]

that would get as long as it took me to put whatever I took apart for access back together before I hit the key if it was in my shop. Hell, on a coolant temp sensor I generally dont even drain the coolant. You are really overthinking this Mike.

I’m with Tim we just put it on and move on. No worries about cure time

Thanks.
Just curious - do you guys treat RTV the same way? At our specialty 2-bag shop, we usually let any sealant or RTV cure overnight, at a minimum.

Main reason for this thread is because I am not familiar with this particular Permatex product, or permatex products in general. I have only used one other permatex product (optimum grey) and it was still soft after an overnight cure; it did not harden up until after the advertised 24 hr curing window had passed.

 

[Timmastertech]

for silicone applications I generally use black Right Stuff. Permatex says right stuff is ready to go as soon as you tighten the bolts. If I can let it cure overnight before it sees fluid I will, if not its good to go

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

I've used this exact product on my daughter's leaking oil pressure sensor (brass threads into aluminum) after 2 failed attempts (by me) to get a good seal with teflon tape. I'm BITOG OCD, don't want ANY drips on garage floor or driveway. I also used Heptane (rubber cement solvent) https://www.amazon.com/Bestine-Solv...qid=1621171596&sprefix=heptane,aps,210&sr=8-3 and a nylon 12 gauge shotgun cleaning brush on the internal threads. I used about two ounces in a dixie cup under the car. Heptane dissolves oil, evaporates quickly and leaves no residue. Heptane is 0 on the octane scale and is used by stamp collectors as an adhesive remover. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heptane I found out about this stuff from my daughter's (college) art instructor. 1 quart will probably last me the rest of my life; excellent automotive internal thread cleaner.

 

[demarpaint]

I'd give it overnight.

 

[MattPersman]

Thanks.
Just curious - do you guys treat RTV the same way? At our specialty 2-bag shop, we usually let any sealant or RTV cure overnight, at a minimum.

Main reason for this thread is because I am not familiar with this particular Permatex product, or permatex products in general. I have only used one other permatex product (optimum grey) and it was still soft after an overnight cure; it did not harden up until after the advertised 24 hr curing window had passed.

RTV is specific to application for me. Several different types. All of them can go into service right away. I would say most techs use much more than the tiny bead the factory uses and sometimes misses a spot.