Penrite Racing on the Street?
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Should be better on premium unleaded which has a lower sulphur limit than regulat 91 ULP.
But Jordan is the better person to answer as he seems to like low SAPS oils, where I am a but cautious of then.
I should add most ILSAC oils, like the regular M1 5W30 I am using now, have a SA level of 0.8%. While the Euro A3/B oils are typically about 1.1 to 1.2 % SA.
But Jordan is the better person to answer as he seems to like low SAPS oils, where I am a but cautious of then.
I should add most ILSAC oils, like the regular M1 5W30 I am using now, have a SA level of 0.8%. While the Euro A3/B oils are typically about 1.1 to 1.2 % SA.
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Regardless of low saps, I'm kind of kicking myself about not getting some Valvoline MST 5W30 a while back. There was no special on at SCA but my store had some bottles selling for $27 per 5L as some sort of clearance. I suppose low saps doesn't matter too much if most of us are draining at around 10,000kms or less! I'm also liking how all of these C3/VW504/507 oils are >3.5 HTHS too.
That's the way I look at it, if I'm doing my standard 10,000 KM OCI, then low or mid SAPS is fine.
If I doubled my OCI then I would only use a A3/B4 oil.
That Nulon is a good universal top-up oil as it's SN for petrol cars and low SAPS for diesel cars, still a 5W30 but high HTHS.
If I doubled my OCI then I would only use a A3/B4 oil.
That Nulon is a good universal top-up oil as it's SN for petrol cars and low SAPS for diesel cars, still a 5W30 but high HTHS.
Originally Posted By: KL31
Is that low saps stuff more suited to fuel with low sulphur though? As in the TBN will get a hammering from our [censored] high sulphur petrol?
Aussie Premium Fuel has 16
From the 2016 Caltex Product Guide
As I said I've been running Helix Ultra with no issues in turbo petrol applications with 7,500kms oil changes for a couple of years now. Low/Mid SAPS oils are now the spec oil for GM, Ford and all of Europe with Japan soon to be on board for their petrols (diesels are already there.) If it meets API SN (all the oils I listed do) and ACEA A3/B3/B4 (once again they all do) you're good to go. A1/A5 are not suitable (in your application.)
regards
Jordan
Is that low saps stuff more suited to fuel with low sulphur though? As in the TBN will get a hammering from our [censored] high sulphur petrol?
Aussie Premium Fuel has 16
From the 2016 Caltex Product Guide
As I said I've been running Helix Ultra with no issues in turbo petrol applications with 7,500kms oil changes for a couple of years now. Low/Mid SAPS oils are now the spec oil for GM, Ford and all of Europe with Japan soon to be on board for their petrols (diesels are already there.) If it meets API SN (all the oils I listed do) and ACEA A3/B3/B4 (once again they all do) you're good to go. A1/A5 are not suitable (in your application.)
regards
Jordan
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Originally Posted By: KL31
Regardless of low saps, I'm kind of kicking myself about not getting some Valvoline MST 5W30 a while back. There was a special on at SCA but my store had some bottles selling for $27 per 5L as some sort of clearance. I suppose low saps doesn't matter too much if most of us are draining at around 10,000kms or less! I'm also liking how all of these C3/VW504/507 oils are >3.5 HTHS too.
Got 20L in the shed for my parents (2x 5W30 and 2x 5W40.) Wasn't letting that sale pass me by
And that's it, the HTHS number are great on the VW504/507 and DexOS2 spec, and they meet SN, ACEA A3/B3/B4. So you're covered as they're not ultra thin fuel saving oils. Even Chev performance recommend DEXOS2 oils for their supercharged LS engines in their top shelf performance cars in sever use cases, as DEXOS1 is too thin
Remember that part of the push for lower SAPS is to improve catalytic converter performance (both airflow and effectiveness) and limit deposit build-up. Now while you 'may' have removed yours. In general the fewer deposits that get left on it, the less restrictive it is. Less restriction = less performance degradation over the long term. A clogged up cat is no good to anybody, not the environment, not your 0-100 time.
Regardless of low saps, I'm kind of kicking myself about not getting some Valvoline MST 5W30 a while back. There was a special on at SCA but my store had some bottles selling for $27 per 5L as some sort of clearance. I suppose low saps doesn't matter too much if most of us are draining at around 10,000kms or less! I'm also liking how all of these C3/VW504/507 oils are >3.5 HTHS too.
Got 20L in the shed for my parents (2x 5W30 and 2x 5W40.) Wasn't letting that sale pass me by
And that's it, the HTHS number are great on the VW504/507 and DexOS2 spec, and they meet SN, ACEA A3/B3/B4. So you're covered as they're not ultra thin fuel saving oils. Even Chev performance recommend DEXOS2 oils for their supercharged LS engines in their top shelf performance cars in sever use cases, as DEXOS1 is too thin
Remember that part of the push for lower SAPS is to improve catalytic converter performance (both airflow and effectiveness) and limit deposit build-up. Now while you 'may' have removed yours. In general the fewer deposits that get left on it, the less restrictive it is. Less restriction = less performance degradation over the long term. A clogged up cat is no good to anybody, not the environment, not your 0-100 time.
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Not a lot data around in relation to the Penrite Racing oils when I was recently looking.
Anyway I took the leap of faith and recently serviced the twin 8.1 Mercruisers in my boat with the Penrite Racing 15 as I wanted a "shear free" oil - so far so good although the proof will be when I have a UOA done next year.
In relation to the "Full Zinc" advertising - from the Penrite website:
Full Zinc + = Zinc level + Boron level combined as a total anti-wear package
FWIW - for my daily Ford G6E Turbo I just use the Castrol Edge 0W/40 and pick it up when Repco has 30% off.
Anyway I took the leap of faith and recently serviced the twin 8.1 Mercruisers in my boat with the Penrite Racing 15 as I wanted a "shear free" oil - so far so good although the proof will be when I have a UOA done next year.
In relation to the "Full Zinc" advertising - from the Penrite website:
Full Zinc + = Zinc level + Boron level combined as a total anti-wear package
FWIW - for my daily Ford G6E Turbo I just use the Castrol Edge 0W/40 and pick it up when Repco has 30% off.
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Thanks for that JFAllen,
Those petrol sulphur figures are good: E10 = 31 ppm, 91 ULP = 34 ppm, 95 PULP = 26 ppm, and 98 PULP = 16 ppm. With Diesel at 7 ppm.
Those petrol sulphur figures are good: E10 = 31 ppm, 91 ULP = 34 ppm, 95 PULP = 26 ppm, and 98 PULP = 16 ppm. With Diesel at 7 ppm.
Originally Posted By: juggernaut
Not a lot data around in relation to the Penrite Racing oils when I was recently looking.
Anyway I took the leap of faith and recently serviced the twin 8.1 Mercruisers in my boat with the Penrite Racing 15 as I wanted a "shear free" oil - so far so good although the proof will be when I have a UOA done next year.
While the mechanics of a marine engine are no different from automotive engines (And in many cases are near identical.) What is relevant is how the engines are used and (especially in salt water environments) the increased corrosion potential.
Since marine engines often operate at moderate to high static loads and RPM for long durations (similar to aviation piston engines,) as opposed to the typical dynamic low loads, low rpm and idle conditions that the vast majority of automotive engines experience. Special consideration must be given to the oil chemistry. 10/10ths is a good choices as it is unlikely to shear, but depending on where you store your boat (trailer / on water / ...,_ or how many hours you do on it. The moderate TBN and limited Anti-Ox / Anti Corrosion pack may simply not prove sufficient protection over a 12-month drain interval. This is especially important in your case, as the Ester component in 10/10ths will want to draw moisture out of the air (not good if you're on the water all the time.) THis is of enven more concern if the engine will sit cold on the water for long periods of time, if you're using it regularly then moisture will flash off, but salt can still prove problematic. Marine specific oils are more closely related to off-highway heavy duty diesel oils (than typical automotive oils) which must last a long time and operate at high static loads, with little consideration given to EPA requirements.
I'm not saying it wont work, it's a great oil, and will take a beating, but it's worth keeping an eye on it.
Regards
Jordan
Not a lot data around in relation to the Penrite Racing oils when I was recently looking.
Anyway I took the leap of faith and recently serviced the twin 8.1 Mercruisers in my boat with the Penrite Racing 15 as I wanted a "shear free" oil - so far so good although the proof will be when I have a UOA done next year.
While the mechanics of a marine engine are no different from automotive engines (And in many cases are near identical.) What is relevant is how the engines are used and (especially in salt water environments) the increased corrosion potential.
Since marine engines often operate at moderate to high static loads and RPM for long durations (similar to aviation piston engines,) as opposed to the typical dynamic low loads, low rpm and idle conditions that the vast majority of automotive engines experience. Special consideration must be given to the oil chemistry. 10/10ths is a good choices as it is unlikely to shear, but depending on where you store your boat (trailer / on water / ...,_ or how many hours you do on it. The moderate TBN and limited Anti-Ox / Anti Corrosion pack may simply not prove sufficient protection over a 12-month drain interval. This is especially important in your case, as the Ester component in 10/10ths will want to draw moisture out of the air (not good if you're on the water all the time.) THis is of enven more concern if the engine will sit cold on the water for long periods of time, if you're using it regularly then moisture will flash off, but salt can still prove problematic. Marine specific oils are more closely related to off-highway heavy duty diesel oils (than typical automotive oils) which must last a long time and operate at high static loads, with little consideration given to EPA requirements.
I'm not saying it wont work, it's a great oil, and will take a beating, but it's worth keeping an eye on it.
Regards
Jordan
I just changed the oil on my Ford Falcon BAII Egas ex taxi with 544000 km on the clock.
I used 5 litres of Penrite 10 Tenths Racing 10W-40 just because I had it sitting there, with the remaining 1.8 litres being a cheap mineral diesel-oriented 15W-40. Can't tell any difference in engine sound or performance but the 100% PAO/ester composition is interesting.
The previous oil change was over 16,000 km ago with Valvoline 10W-40 semi-synth and the same 15W-40 mineral, plus Liqui Moly MoS2, which turns the oil a grey-green colour. I expect to leave this new oil in there for at least 15,000 km or a year. No more short OCIs for me. I don't think there's any reason not to use 10 Tenths on the street unless you're worried about the zinc content.
I used 5 litres of Penrite 10 Tenths Racing 10W-40 just because I had it sitting there, with the remaining 1.8 litres being a cheap mineral diesel-oriented 15W-40. Can't tell any difference in engine sound or performance but the 100% PAO/ester composition is interesting.
The previous oil change was over 16,000 km ago with Valvoline 10W-40 semi-synth and the same 15W-40 mineral, plus Liqui Moly MoS2, which turns the oil a grey-green colour. I expect to leave this new oil in there for at least 15,000 km or a year. No more short OCIs for me. I don't think there's any reason not to use 10 Tenths on the street unless you're worried about the zinc content.
Hey BoganBox,
Welcome !! Good screen name.
Here is a link to the Penrite catalogue for those interested
(Penrite Product Catalogue)
My three favourite oils in Oz are
- Penrite 10-Tenths series built on 100% PAO and Ester
- Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 a full synthetic with GTL (and possibly PAO) that carries the most OEM specs with API SN, ACEA A3/B4, MB 229.5, BMW LL-01, Porsche A40, Ferrari approval, etc. It's very affordable too.
- Castrol Edge 5W30 A3/B4 it's a high zinc (hence SL - but it passes all SN tests) Group III full synthetic that carries API SL, ACEA A3/B4, MB 229.5 and BMW LL-01. That's one strong 5W30.
All of those oils should go the distance.
Honourable mention should also go to the new full synthetic Castrol Magnatec 5W30 that is SN and A3/B4 and often at a good price. Being A3/B4 it has a Noack volatility of 13% or less, but a TBN of 10 or more and a HTHS of 3.5 cP or more. Plus Magnatec always runs smooth for me.
Welcome !! Good screen name.
Here is a link to the Penrite catalogue for those interested
(Penrite Product Catalogue)
My three favourite oils in Oz are
- Penrite 10-Tenths series built on 100% PAO and Ester
- Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 a full synthetic with GTL (and possibly PAO) that carries the most OEM specs with API SN, ACEA A3/B4, MB 229.5, BMW LL-01, Porsche A40, Ferrari approval, etc. It's very affordable too.
- Castrol Edge 5W30 A3/B4 it's a high zinc (hence SL - but it passes all SN tests) Group III full synthetic that carries API SL, ACEA A3/B4, MB 229.5 and BMW LL-01. That's one strong 5W30.
All of those oils should go the distance.
Honourable mention should also go to the new full synthetic Castrol Magnatec 5W30 that is SN and A3/B4 and often at a good price. Being A3/B4 it has a Noack volatility of 13% or less, but a TBN of 10 or more and a HTHS of 3.5 cP or more. Plus Magnatec always runs smooth for me.
Originally Posted By: BoganBox
Ford Falcon BAII Egas ex taxi with 544000 km on the clock.
The previous oil change was over 16,000 km ago with Valvoline 10W-40 semi-synth ...
Is that a gas (LPG) only Falcon or can it run petrol too ? I hear gas only cars keep their oil very clean looking, but they still need regular changing, 15000 KM sounds about right to me, but I'm no natural gas expert.
I've used a fair bit of Valvoline 10W40 (SN, A3/B4) semi-synthetic myself. Their DuraBlend which is now only sold in bulk to garages, but we can buy EngineArmour in the shops, which has recently been upgraded to be the same stuff as the DuraBlend. Previously DuraBlend had more synthetic content than the EngineArmour, but recently the EA has been improved to be the same as the DB. I was speaking to a Valvolne tech on the phone recently. The general rule of thumb for DB is about 30% synthetic content.
Ford Falcon BAII Egas ex taxi with 544000 km on the clock.
The previous oil change was over 16,000 km ago with Valvoline 10W-40 semi-synth ...
Is that a gas (LPG) only Falcon or can it run petrol too ? I hear gas only cars keep their oil very clean looking, but they still need regular changing, 15000 KM sounds about right to me, but I'm no natural gas expert.
I've used a fair bit of Valvoline 10W40 (SN, A3/B4) semi-synthetic myself. Their DuraBlend which is now only sold in bulk to garages, but we can buy EngineArmour in the shops, which has recently been upgraded to be the same stuff as the DuraBlend. Previously DuraBlend had more synthetic content than the EngineArmour, but recently the EA has been improved to be the same as the DB. I was speaking to a Valvolne tech on the phone recently. The general rule of thumb for DB is about 30% synthetic content.
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