Pennzoil Platinum v Quaker State Adv Eng Syn

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Both are buy one get one at Advanced Auto Parts Was thinking of getting a couple cases or a case for my 98 Deville. Figure this stuff is well enough to follow the OLM with the AA filters.

Which one is better are they basically just a coin flip?
http://www.advanceautoparts.com/english/specials/specials.asp
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It has been posted in the past by a former Pennzoil employee that between Pennzoil Platinum (PP) and Quaker State synthetic the PP uses a superior Group III base-stock compared with the Quaker State. Given then choice between the two at a similar price point, I'd take the PP every time.

{Edit} Found the post from Johnny:
Quote:


Other than the additive difference, the base stocks are different. The PP is made from the Shell XHVI Group III base while the QS is made from a Group III that is more than likely purchased from Chevron. The Q-Torque product uses the same QS base but has a different additive package than other QS synthetics.




From this message thread:
Pennzoil Platinum vs Quaker State Q Advanced oils.
 
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I've seen PP runs a bit thin in the 5w-30 relm. Synthetics being better in cold weather I suppose I could just run the recommended 10w-30 in my caddy all year round and not bother with switching to 5w-30 in the winter if I went the synthetic route. For shear concerns pre-2000 northstar users have been advised to run 10w-30 when they can. Flat tappets.
 
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I've seen PP runs a bit thin in the 5w-30 relm. Synthetics being better in cold weather I suppose I could just run the recommended 10w-30 in my caddy all year round and not bother with switching to 5w-30 in the winter if I went the synthetic route. For shear concerns pre-2000 northstar users have been advised to run 10w-30 when they can. Flat tappets.




Correct me if im wrong, but 10.3 cSt @100 C for PP 5w-30 is considered thin? How can that be when the old Havoline dino was 10.8 and the new deposit sheild dino is 9.7? Should it be more towards 11?
 
That's what I'm asking, how much difference will I see? :p I got zero noticeable leakage with the Castrol GTX HM 10w-30 (their site says "9.3-12.5") I'm getting a bit of seepage from Kendall 5w-30 GT1 Synthetic Blend (10.9)that has slowed down since adding a quart (maybe 2) of Kendall 5w-30 GT1 HM Synthetic Blend w/Sealmax(11.6). PP is 5w-30 10.3 and 10w-30 10.45.

Other question is that "adaptive molecule" thing just a gimmick or could it help prevent leaks too? I like the idea that it resists shearing because thats one of the concerns with flat tappet engines.

Guess I'll give it a try next oil change and see what happens :p
 
Some engines would rather have the lesser quality oil. Just because one oil is higher quality than the other - doesn't mean it will surrender lower wear numbers or a quieter engine. There's no way to find out the correct answer here until you get a UOA done with each brand. In the meantime, pick a brand and GO!
 
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