Penetrating Oil Question

Lots of tests that show penetrating fluid works, but it needs time. I can't stand the smell of PB Blaster so I use Liquid Wrench, which has performed well in comparisons.
I hate the smell of PB, but it works better for me than LW and the others I've tried, so I just deal with the smell. The smell of PB has taught me how to not be excessive and wasteful with application, so I don't wind up wearing it because I got it everywhere. Haha
 
If the stuck part or fastener is really stuck and can be heated I’ve found that heating it and melting paraffin wax on it works pretty good. The molten wax seems to flow into the hot threads better than penetrating oil. You don’t need to hear the part so hot that the wax bursts into flame, just hot enough to melt the wax.
 
I remove tons of GM/Ford 10x1.5mm exhaust nuts, Without a penetrant you run a higher risk of them galling on the stud.
The trick for them, and this comes from the rust belt, is no penetrant and use a 1/2 inch impact set to stun . Pull the trigger and dont let go until the nut is on the floor. Also works for the Toyota self locking exhaust nuts. Have not broken a stud since I started doing exhaust this way. If the nut is rusted to the point of rounding then we have to revert back to other methods
 
Bomb Squad was on the news.
Friend's dad said the suspected bomb is immersed in penetrating oil.
My friend and I soaked a firecracker in penetrating oil and sure enough, the fuse didn't even light!

Actually, we've never been absent "Better than Penetrating Oils" products (Tasgon) or formulae (ATF + Acetone)
None of those penetrants ever worked for me except after the bolt was already loosened and to spin off easier
 
If the stuck part or fastener is really stuck and can be heated I’ve found that heating it and melting paraffin wax on it works pretty good. The molten wax seems to flow into the hot threads better than penetrating oil. You don’t need to hear the part so hot that the wax bursts into flame, just hot enough to melt the wax
I'll try that, thanks
 
Check out Project Farm’s work on head to head tests. Liquid Wrench for the win. Flame suit on.
Yeah, its got something in it that does something to the rust, as its not really much of an oil left when it dries out? I squirt some of that on, hit the head of the bolt with hammer of appropriate size if I can, let it sit for a couple days, and some pretty nasty looking stuff comes apart.
 
Gibbs beat LW in the project farm test. The original LW seemed to be better and didn't stink the high heaven, the new formula stinks so bad I cant stand to use it.
Yes. You are correct. I missed this one. Here are some screen shots. There are a few versions of LW but now it gets complicated as to how each one works. Gibbs is pretty expensive. Also the PF data is 6 years old. Time to do a repeat. The new formulation needs to be checked. To me LW was “the smell of victory”

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I saw that, the only thing that is important for me is helping to loosen rusted bolts without stinking the place out. It works well but it is not cheap as you say but to me it is worth the price.
 
Here is another test from PF from around 2018. As hokey as Project Farm’s motor oil tests were, his scientific tests on breakout torque were well done in my opinion. They probably need to be updated considering that some formulations have changed and Liquid Wrench has a few variations including a “ Low Odour” version.

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The old formula has been gone a long time, it was a white and green/blue can. The very old non spray cans were yellow.
I still have some left in a spray can from the 1980's that looks like this. Although it says "deodorized", it actually smells worse and stronger than PB Blaster. It does seem to work as well as my go-to AeroKroil.
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I've been using PB Blaster for the last 20 or so years. It needs time to work, but it does work. Add a propane torch and only the worst stuff won't break free.
I'm from the old school, we didn't have cordless impact,so we really let whatever brand we were using have plenty of time to work.So yes time is a big factor,those in a shop don't have this luxury
 
The trick for them, and this comes from the rust belt, is no penetrant and use a 1/2 inch impact set to stun . Pull the trigger and dont let go until the nut is on the floor. Also works for the Toyota self locking exhaust nuts. Have not broken a stud since I started doing exhaust this way. If the nut is rusted to the point of rounding then we have to revert back to other methods

I agree with keeping the pedal to the metal! Haven't broke a stud or galled a nut to a stud in several years.
 
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