Penetrating Oil Question

They tend to be low viscosity. But other than that, I am not sure.

I have never had penetrating oil work for me, not in any capacity. I think it's a "feel good" item to use.
 
They tend to be low viscosity. But other than that, I am not sure.

I have never had penetrating oil work for me, not in any capacity. I think it's a "feel good" item to use.
The few times I've tried it, it's not helped ...
 
Bomb Squad was on the news.
Friend's dad said the suspected bomb is immersed in penetrating oil.
My friend and I soaked a firecracker in penetrating oil and sure enough, the fuse didn't even light!

Actually, we've never been absent "Better than Penetrating Oils" products (Tasgon) or formulae (ATF + Acetone)
 
What allows or makes a penetrating oil penetrate? What additives or characteristics does it have that sets it apart from other oils, including MMO?

The real workhorse ingredient in any penetrating liquid such as the rust busters is a special surfactant or "surface active agent" which reduces the surface tension of the liquid so it can spread.

Once the spreading takes place, any porous material like rust can wick it up and the other chemicals can attack the rust or scale. Then a rust reduction or loosening chemistry goes to work.

The penetrant mix should also provide some friction reduction.

Many times it takes penetrating oil + an impact wrench + heat to 'convince' nuts or bolts, or joints to free them up.
 
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I've heard of Mouse Milk ... never tried it, though.
I don't remember where I was introduced to it but years ago I got a bottle of it. I had to do the 02 sensors in my truck. I got under the truck and applied Mouse Milk to the warm 02 sensors with a Q Tip. Watched it run right in. About thirty minutes later, I broke both sensors loose with a wrench and spun them both out with my fingers.
I'm currently using it again to try and free up a stuck seatpost in a friend's bicycle frame.
 
The real workhorse ingredient in any penetrating liquid such as the rust busters is a special surfactant or "surface active agent" which reduces the surface tension of the liquid so it can spread.

Once the spreading takes place, any porous material like rust can wick it up and the other chemicals can attack the rust or scale. Then a rust reduction or loosening chemistry goes to work.

The penetrant mix should also provide some friction reduction.

Many times it takes penetrating oil + an impact wrench + heat to 'convince' nuts or bolts to free up.
Thanks for that informative post. 👍 👍
 
I don't remember where I was introduced to it but years ago I got a bottle of it. I had to do the 02 sensors in my truck. I got under the truck and applied Mouse Milk to the warm 02 sensors with a Q Tip. Watched it run right in. About thirty minutes later, I broke both sensors loose with a wrench and spun them both out with my fingers.
I'm currently using it again to try and free up a stuck seatpost in a friend's bicycle frame.
Which version; the Blue or Green?
 
I think that most any kind of oil will work as well as ATF with acetone. There's nothing special about transmission fluid vs regular motor oil or even hydraulic fluid.

Probably diesel and solvents like naptha, paint thinner, etc would be effective in combination with a lubricating oil.
 
PB Blaster to the rescue. Hit the rusty bolt the day before. And again right before.

Years ago I had a trailer with rusted on lug nuts or lug bolts and I used a breaker bar and 8' piece of pipe and snapped the bolt. Bought it to a machine shop and probably paid more than a new hub would have cost.

The next time I had that situation I sprayed the bolts with PB Blaster and got some but not all. Each day I sprayed more PB Blaster. Eventually got them all off with no snapped bolt or stud

I definitely spray a bleeder screw a day before working on a caliper. Would hate to need a new caliper because I snapped a bleeder screw.
 
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Lots of tests that show penetrating fluid works, but it needs time. I can't stand the smell of PB Blaster so I use Liquid Wrench, which has performed well in comparisons.
 
My personal favorite around the farms for general use lubricant/penetrant oil is a 50/50 mix of diesel fuel and synthetic ATF. Cheap and easy.
 
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