Peak Long Life in All Aluminum Engines

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Originally Posted By: Oily_Thing
Why not use the required Asian coolant in your Subaru?


+1, and preferably OE unless there's an established spec.
 
If you must use something other than Subaru OE then go with Peak Global. It is a unique golden color and aluminum friendly. It might be easier getting a jug from a subie dealer than finding this. I have found NAPA to be the most reliable place to get Peak Global but they might have to order it for you.
 
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Use the OEM coolant, or instead i would see no reason to not use G13 for example, it's an OAT with Silicates, perfect for aluminium, also G13 is ok with brass, unlike other OATs like G12 and G12+ which do not contain silicates.
 
Because of the use of 2eha as inhibitor in Peak LL, wouldn't be my first choice for Subaru.

The are many aftermarket Asian PHOATS AFs available now at reasonable prices. Including Valvoline Asian vehicle at WM, Zerex Asian Formula, Pentofrost A3, all premixes like the oem. And if you can find it Pep Boys OEM brand concentrate. All now available in or comes as blue tint to match current Subaru vehicle tint.

Only other AF I would consider (with complete exchange) and have read used by members on some Subaru forums as alternative, Peak Global Lifetime. Can be found at some Napas in a concentrate form. Long service interval OAT AF, no 2eha.
 
When we were all using good old green coolants I would use whatever quality brand there was at the time, now that OEM's have gone different ways in terms of long life coolants I would advocate for buying the OEM coolant and using that.

The engineers know your engine best and there might be special considerations that have been taken into account for the coolant. You don't have to buy the OEM coolant from the dealer, most times it can be found elsewhere a lot cheaper. I usually drive my vehicles to the scrap yard with 1/2 a million kilometers on original water pumps, radiators and hoses because I use quality coolant and change it at 1/2 the recommended interval.

(Yes this goes for water pumps where the vehicle is equipped with timing belts, My 2006 Santa Fe is prime example. Original water pump when the dealer recommended changing it with every timing belt.)
 
Originally Posted by SHOZ
Not many all aluminum engines are there?

Not too many, if you mean those without iron cylinder liners. But still the coolant contacts the cooling passages in the block if it is aluminum, as well as the head. In all of my four cars everything the coolant touches that is metal is aluminum.
 
Thanks I thought we were talking about Vega engines from the 70's......
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I use Farm and Fleet coolant which is made by Peak in both my Hyundais and two past Ford Duratec motored products (1996-2008). Have been on the green but have since switched my Accent to the long life yellow they sell last summer. Jug is yellow the coolant just barely. But +150k on the Accent and +90k on the Gen Coupe with no issues as far as cooling other than lazy OE t-stats.
 
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I'm going to switch to G12++ for my 1988 Escort, everything but the block is aluminium in the engine, including radiator, the heater core is copper / brass.
I want an OAT for the long life, but one that has silicates, for the aluminium copper and brass protection, and no Borates, since it is corrosive to Aluminium.

Previous generations of OAT like G12 and G12+ are not good for copper or brass because of the lack of Silicates, but G12++ / G13 contain about 500mg/L of silicate which is good.
With a Silicated OAT you get the fast acting silicate protection of alu engine parts, but also the long term protection of the Organic corrosion inhibitors.
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