PCV valve / short trip

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I recently post and ask question about "running lean" and I think. The problem was a bad pcv valve, rough idle, weak performance, some intermitent jerking on the highway.

I do only short trip, maybe 5 min ride, stop and go, red light, stop, etc. From what I read on the web, the pcv get clogged faster because of moisture from short trip. Short oci is better for short trip i guess.

What if the replacement interval / cleaning of a pcv? And if I need to clean it, which product do I use? I replaced mine last year.
 
I think you should find out how to change and verify the pcv valve yourself.

A good help to keeping it clean in such brutally short trips, as is the case with me, is to also use a GrIII syn like Pennzoil Platinum, QSUD, Mobil 1 etc.

They have less contaminants in the virgin oil with less sulfur and will probably help keep the PCV clean, and have higher quality add packs and higher TBN.

I, myself have a similar drive as you and am considering a 3 times a year OCI to clear out moisture and fuel dilution out of the crank case. I also have frigid temps so the synthetic helps with cold starts and FE.

Get the oil on sale at WM and change it yourself to lower cost.
 
I have not found pvc valves worth cleaning. Is cheap enough to just replace it now and then. I don't know what they cost in canada though. If i had to clean one , i would use carb cleaner, or chemtool b-12, but that stuff costs almost as much as a new pcv valve at wallyworld.
 
I did actualy clean it with carburator cleaner, I will get a new one tomorow.

It was stuck, it tried to shoot some cleaner in it and it took a few shots to see fluid dripping at the end of it. I dont know how long it will work properly, but I will put the new one asap.
 
My owners manuad recommend quaker state, its a very thin oil in the 5w20 grade. 8,2 @ 100 degree.

Is the viscosity can be a factor for a pcv?
 
Overfilling an engine is not good for anything, empty some out.

I personally don't bother with dino anymore so I don't recommend it, especially for extreme service, and you are in chilly Atlantic Canada.

Just having better oil in the crank is worth the 10$ extra to me, and that isn't even taking into consideration the added benefits of syn, as they are many in your application.

Take the girlfriend out to one less movie here and there to cover the added cost.
 
I clean my PCV valves, submerge it in naphtha and swirl around a bit. Take it out, wipe off and do a blow test. PCV valves can only work one way, so if it passes air one way and it doesn't the other, it still works. So I don't see the purpose of throwing away money for new valves when it's such a simple device to test to see if it still works. Also, some third-party PCV valves (FRAM) are complete and utter garbage right out of the box.
 
Originally Posted By: cutter
I clean my PCV valves, submerge it in naphtha and swirl around a bit. Take it out, wipe off and do a blow test. PCV valves can only work one way, so if it passes air one way and it doesn't the other, it still works. So I don't see the purpose of throwing away money for new valves when it's such a simple device to test to see if it still works. Also, some third-party PCV valves (FRAM) are complete and utter garbage right out of the box.


They sure can be open both ways! There are all sorts of variants in PCV valve designs. Gravity loaded, spring loaded, bypass holes, etc.
 
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