Parasitic draw test

If you get to the point that all the fuses are pulled and you still have a draw, then look at disconnecting the alternator.

I've had a good charging alternator cause a draw as has been said in this thread.
 
If you get to the point that all the fuses are pulled and you still have a draw, then look at disconnecting the alternator.

I've had a good charging alternator cause a draw as has been said in this thread.

Thanks - I believe I pulled an alternator relay in the underhood box, and did not see a drop. (It could have been the starter). Supposedly the alternators on these are prone to fail, especially if you swap the power steering pump and spill fluid on it (which I did).
 
Thanks - I believe I pulled an alternator relay in the underhood box, and did not see a drop. (It could have been the starter). Supposedly the alternators on these are prone to fail, especially if you swap the power steering pump and spill fluid on it (which I did).
There isn't a relay for the alternator. Not sure if there is a Maxi fuse for it or not.

My wife has a 2010 Crv as well. 150,000 an no issues other than well....burnt valve which I changed last winter.
20220122_133504.jpg


This is from carbon in the offending cylinder holding the valve open. I adjusted the valves at 95,000 miles.
 
There isn't a relay for the alternator. Not sure if there is a Maxi fuse for it or not.

My wife has a 2010 Crv as well. 150,000 an no issues other than well....burnt valve which I changed last winter. View attachment 95646

This is from carbon in the offending cylinder holding the valve open. I adjusted the valves at 95,000 miles.
ooph...mine has been relatively trouble free (99k). only significant issue was a compressor problem, and a few silly leaks around the trans.

I didn't trust myself to adjust the valves - paid a shop, and the replacement valve cover gasket leaked.

I'll disconnect the alternator and see what happens. thanks so much.
 
^^^ What you said in post #1 pretty much says you don't have an abnormal patasitic current draw.

With a draw of 25 mA the car should still start well after sitting 3 weeks if the battery is healthy and fully charged.

I hooked up a multimeter in-series with the battery, and expected to see a pretty big draw from the remote starter. It only shows about .02 to .03 amps at rest. (My manual shows the spec is 25 milliamps).
 
You mention an aftermarket remote start - in my experience they're the culprit of phantom draws 90% of the time. Imo, start there.
 
Update - no slow start or charging issues since removing the negative cable, cleaning the two body grounds, and the battery connections.

I'm actually quite surprised - the grounds appeared pretty solid, and metal on metal. But, there was a bit of corrosion on the fasteners that knocked right off with a bit of sandpaper. (Removing the battery tray was the biggest challenge - but I had to do it anyway to check out a possible trans leak).

Not clear if this was the real issue, or not. (The weather has gotten a lot warmer obviously).

Calling it fixed - thanks for tips guys.
 
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