The clear coat on the hood of my Nissan PU is peeling off in huge flakes. I decided I have to remove all of it and repaint the hood. Is it ok to use a liquid paint remover first then sand or should I just sand all of it off. I have never really did any serious car painting before and not sure of the best paint removal procedure. I'm unsure whether I will repaint the original color (bright red) or maybe paint the hood flat black and add a matt clear coat. Paint removal is my concern right now and I would like to do it the quickest way possible and with the least muscle (I poop out way to quick in my old age...the brain says It wants to do it but the body doesn't always cooperate). I'm obviously not looking for concours quality.
Paint removal
- Thread starter GaryMX5
- Start date
How many miles on this '02? ...this salted, Colorado '02?
What's the original color of your truck? Or, do the tires look good against the rest of the truck?
Actually, either way, go the flat black route after liquid removal.
I say this because a hood isn't that large an area AND because my neighbor turned a Ford LTD into a mirror with an Eastwood remover.
Seriously, the entire car was blemish free, a sparkling body of clean steel.
You can't beat that.
Prime and paint for the highest likelihood of success.
A uniform finish is necessary for success.
You're vastly more likely to fail by trying to match a factory painted body.
Also, a vehicle's hood is its face; every mistake is amplified.
You say you're not looking for concourse, so maybe don't try.
Does the truck's resale appeal dovetail better with a flat black motif vs. an inevitable, less-than-perfect paint job?
Or try your hand at painting a hood.
Only you can answer that.
Do people still do flat black rocker panel / wheel well repairs in Colorado? I like that look on a 'working truck'.
What's the original color of your truck? Or, do the tires look good against the rest of the truck?
Actually, either way, go the flat black route after liquid removal.
I say this because a hood isn't that large an area AND because my neighbor turned a Ford LTD into a mirror with an Eastwood remover.
Seriously, the entire car was blemish free, a sparkling body of clean steel.
You can't beat that.
Prime and paint for the highest likelihood of success.
A uniform finish is necessary for success.
You're vastly more likely to fail by trying to match a factory painted body.
Also, a vehicle's hood is its face; every mistake is amplified.
You say you're not looking for concourse, so maybe don't try.
Does the truck's resale appeal dovetail better with a flat black motif vs. an inevitable, less-than-perfect paint job?
Or try your hand at painting a hood.
Only you can answer that.
Do people still do flat black rocker panel / wheel well repairs in Colorado? I like that look on a 'working truck'.
Last edited:
I intend to remove it to do the work.
Can you take it to get it sandblasted? Isn't that how alot of panels have paint removed?
I assume this is an option but I prefer to make it a "do it myself" job to keep costs down. The rest of the truck is in decent condition. The hood just looks terrible.
Any other black on this bright red truck?
I recall seeing only the Eastwood name on the quart cans they used.
Wouldn't common "Zip-Strip" work?
Sandblasting is a NO GO as it warps panels.
I recall seeing only the Eastwood name on the quart cans they used.
Wouldn't common "Zip-Strip" work?
Sandblasting is a NO GO as it warps panels.
When I had clear coat that was lifting in largish sections I used a scraper blade and an air compressor to lift and blow the clear coat off. I then gave the factory paint a very light sanding and painted the bonnet flat black.
It doesn’t work so well when the clear coat is thin and patchy.
It doesn’t work so well when the clear coat is thin and patchy.
Side mirrors, door handles and bed liner are black. Maybe enough to compliment a black hood.
^^Decision made, black it is.
Black and red vehicles are something special.
I knew a family about 50 years ago with 3 black and red factory painted vehicles.
Photos when you're done...then we can have a "Post vehicles you've had with black accents or panels", thread.
Black Notes:
My brother had a 1993 (last year) Volvo 240 DL 4-door. It had a black surround at the base of the greenhouse. Over the years, the application shrunk and cracked delicately throughout. I used flat black paint and a toothpick to fill in the cracks and it turned out near perfect.
Black and red vehicles are something special.
I knew a family about 50 years ago with 3 black and red factory painted vehicles.
Photos when you're done...then we can have a "Post vehicles you've had with black accents or panels", thread.
Black Notes:
My brother had a 1993 (last year) Volvo 240 DL 4-door. It had a black surround at the base of the greenhouse. Over the years, the application shrunk and cracked delicately throughout. I used flat black paint and a toothpick to fill in the cracks and it turned out near perfect.
Liquid paint stripper will work, but keep it off the backside. Use tape. Honestly, a 1/4 sheet DA will work fine for a project like this, and it's less messy.
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2025
- Messages
- 249
Do yourself a favor. Go get a SCT (Surface Conditioning Tool). Harbor Freight has one cheap.
It's has a 4 inch sanding barrel and removes paint all the way down to bare metal in a hurry.it's what most professional paint shops use.
I recently stripped the entire roof of my Dodge Caravan and front hood in about an hour.
I know of nothing better imo.
Good luck
It's has a 4 inch sanding barrel and removes paint all the way down to bare metal in a hurry.it's what most professional paint shops use.
I recently stripped the entire roof of my Dodge Caravan and front hood in about an hour.
I know of nothing better imo.
Good luck
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2025
- Messages
- 249
After you strip the paint and fix any blems, go buy DupliColor that matches your paint code. One can will probably do, but two to be safe. JBTools has great prices on that. Also get one can of Spraymax 2k clearcoat.
once the hood is ready for paint, spray the hood from about 12 inches to get a nice even coat. Nice even coats try to go the width of the hood on each pass, overlapping just enough to get good coverage (don't do this on a windy day). If you get too close you'll end up with bands that won't look great. Then, use the SprayMax 2K as directed.
Don't spray heavy enough to get runs.
You will end up with a beautiful, long lasting DIY repair that can rival professional results (depending on your prep work).
If you do it right, you'll be giddy at just how darn good it looks.
Give that about 3 days to fully cure then twice a year apply Meguires hybrid ceramic coating ($18.00 at HF, light blue spray bottle)
You should get 5 to 10 years out of that refinish
Last edited:
I've heard that sandblasting a hood is a bad idea. The large expanse of metal can warp and it will be impossible to get straight again.
It might depend on the hood design, but I'd stick to a liquid remover.
