If I were you and I wanted a cheap way to refill a repaired R-134a system I would get a side-pierce clamp and Air Duster.
It will be either R-152a or R-134a.
It will be either R-152a or R-134a.
PAG oil for propane/isobutane (sold as replacement gas in r134a systems)
- Thread starter payne
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Is that available in Europe?
Many moons ago I bought it at Mediamarkt
PAG 46. I lost a bit of refrigerant during the winter and loaded in another 6 oz can of R12A this spring. It’s been working fine this summer.
The head office for Red Tek is Louisville, Tennessee, but according to the warning on the side of a can of their product, it confirms it is not for use or sale the the USA. Pity.
ok, its PAG 46 you are using. that seems to agree with what I found here (also how much oil to add for each component replaced)
https://garage.wiki/hyundai/santa-f...air-conditioning-compressor-oil-capacity.html
interesting that the redtec can says to us it to charge the system upside down, many youtubers saying dont hold it upside down
https://garage.wiki/hyundai/santa-f...air-conditioning-compressor-oil-capacity.html
interesting that the redtec can says to us it to charge the system upside down, many youtubers saying dont hold it upside down
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Apparently some cans have a tube down the center and for those cans the correct answer is to keep it upright. However, I’d like to see an empty can cut apart to prove that.
Loading in a can of Red Tek hydrocarbon refrigerant. In this case the low pressure port is on the accumulator. Just to the left of the high pressure port (where the red quick connector is attached) is where the orifice tube is located. I installed a fresh one at the same time I replaced the accumulator and seals.
Isn't the can supposed to be with port up? You don't want liquid going into the compressor?
JHZR2
Staff member
You should fill HC blends as liquids so that the mixture is right. They will fractionate otherwise, and you’ll get more of the more volatile component.
if you do a full can obviously this isn’t a big deal.
I know one shouldn’t put liquid in a working system, but I don’t see the work around besides to go slow, or let the charge fill the hose and then slowly let it flash into the low side….
From my own experiments, pure propane doesn't work, 152a (Canned Air) did in numerous different vehicles.
I suspect "12a" R134a replacements are blend of propane R290 and Butane (R600) to simulate the curve of 134a proper.
Odd, propane has an appropriate thermodynamic cycle and should have worked as long as it wasn't contaminated with water or something else. Check out the phase diagram for propane.
It was also a variable displacement compressor system, so I suspect that had something to do with it. Hard to charge by feel.
Ive mentioned before that propane really doesn't come close to the right pressure temperature curve for replacing R12 or R134a. Guys will argue that it works but that doesn't mean its right.
Like you say 12A is most likely a blend to get the PT curve closer to R12/R134A
R152A works well though! It was supposed to be the replacement for R134A but we got stuck with R1234yf.
I rigged up a section of 3/4 pipe with reducers to 1/4 flare on either side as a sort of accumulator to flash off liquid going in.
JHZR2
Staff member
Have a photo?
sorry i disassembled it for parts, but basically a 3/4" NPT pipe with reducers at each end to fit gauge hoses.
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