pads, rotors and calipers changed...still vibrating when braking

[tookien]

Brake pedal vibrates when stopping.

Changed calipers, rotors and pads in the front. Problem still persists, vibrating brake pedal when going to a stop.

Slide pins all new ofcourse and lubricated. Brake hose and lines inspected looks fine. Brake fluid is clean.

Wheel alignment is fine. Ties rods, ball joints and bearings all fine.

Not sure if it's related but there is a very slight almost unnoticeable noise while driving as if the brake pads are just lightly rubbing against the rotor (front left).
This slight noise goes away when I apply brake pedal lightly as well.

I am thinking the new rotor is still warped a little bit (front left). But it just doesn't make sense because I bought the car used 2 years back and it already had new rotors replaced at the time with the same symptom.

Any thoughts?

 

[HankHill]

It could actually be a CV axle joint causing the issue. Inspect both boots on each side for tares or grease leakage.

 

[2010Civic]

Is the rotor sitting flat on the hub?

 

[Trav]

If these are aluminum wheels make sure they are clean on the rear face, use a wire brush in a drill if not, don't get crazy just remove the corrosion.
Make sure the hub face is very clean and it doesnt hurt to put a thin film of never seize on that and on the back of the wheel face where it mounts.
If possible check the rotor run out with a dial indicator and correct it by moving the rotor on the hub or by using rotor shims (usually not needed).

 

[D60]

What vehicle is this?

My crude rule of thumb is pedal + steering wheel = front brakes. Pedal only = rear brakes

If rear drums this maybe becomes less likely, but not necessarily.

I see no mention of rear brakes? Why not?

 

[tookien]

What vehicle is this?

My crude rule of thumb is pedal + steering wheel = front brakes. Pedal only = rear brakes

If rear drums this maybe becomes less likely, but not necessarily.

I see no mention of rear brakes? Why not?

It's a mazda cx-7

 

[tookien]

What vehicle is this?

My crude rule of thumb is pedal + steering wheel = front brakes. Pedal only = rear brakes

If rear drums this maybe becomes less likely, but not necessarily.

I see no mention of rear brakes? Why not?

I agree. It could be the rear. Rear has rotors not drums.

The rotors were replaced when I bought the vehicle in the rear as well.

I did do some work in the rear. Replaces the brake pads. Lubricated the sliders, caliper pins, and fixed and adjusted the e-brake.

But it's possible the rear rotors might be warped.

It just feels like it's coming from the front but I could be fooling myself.

 

[Trav]

What vehicle is this?

My crude rule of thumb is pedal + steering wheel = front brakes. Pedal only = rear brakes

If rear drums this maybe becomes less likely, but not necessarily.

I see no mention of rear brakes? Why not?

It is not as common to have pulsation like the front, from my experience even when there is it is no where near as pronounced. I have seen drums badly out of round resulting in a low pedal but not much vibration or pulsation.
The out of round rear rotors I have come across tended to shake the rear of the car. That being said it is certainly possible.

 

[Trav]

I agree. It could be the rear. Rear has rotors not drums.

The rotors were replaced when I bought the vehicle in the rear as well.

I did do some work in the rear. Replaces the brake pads. Lubricated the sliders, caliper pins, and fixed and adjusted the e-brake.

But it's possible the rear rotors might be warped.

It just feels like it's coming from the front but I could be fooling myself.

A dial indicator is what you really need, the cheap one from HF is okay for home use.

 

[tookien]

It could actually be a CV axle joint causing the issue. Inspect both boots on each side for tares or grease leakage.

checked before the CV axle, it looks good. I didn't see any issue with that or the boots.

It just really feels brake related.

I think that very slight humming sound as if brake pad is just rubbing on the rotor is somehow related because it goes away as I lightly tap the brake pedal while cruising but magnifies with vibrations as I attempt to stop.

So it does seem like it's rotor (warped) related, but now it could be the rear.

I had this issue before the in the past about a decade ago with another vehicle.
The new rotors that were sold were warped. TWICE had to be removed and replaced and the the third time vibrations stopped.

Could just be a spell of bad luck.

 

[ls1mike]

I know they are new rotors, but make sure they are not out of round.

I purchased a set of brand-new AC/Delco rotors put them on the Caprice they were warped right out of the box.
Put different ones on, problem solved.

 

[tookien]

A dial indicator is what you really need, the cheap one from HF is okay for home use.

Thank you.

 

[JeffKeryk]

If you didn't prep the hub and inner wheel, my money is on rust/corrosion.

 

[D60]

I've definitely experienced pedal pulsation from rear rotors on GMT800s....but certainly a different animal from a CX-7

 

[Warstud]

Wheel alignment is fine. Ties rods, ball joints and bearings all fine.

You say there fine but who checked them ?

 

[HankHill]

If these are aluminum wheels make sure they are clean on the rear face, use a wire brush in a drill if not, don't get crazy just remove the corrosion.
Make sure the hub face is very clean and it doesnt hurt to put a thin film of never seize on that and on the back of the wheel face where it mounts.
If possible check the rotor run out with a dial indicator and correct it by moving the rotor on the hub or by using rotor shims (usually not needed).

This guy is a master of all things brake. Pretty sure I'll be using a dial indicator from now on when I do my rotors, it speaks to my OCD perfection issues.
Perhaps something trivial that I do, is torque my lug nuts evenly to 105 ft-lbs. Or slightly more as long as they are even. I had an experience once where a tech zipped on the nuts to what I measured to be over 350 ft -lbs. I tried checking the rotors because they felt warped, but in reality the rotors were bent from wayyy over tightening the lug nuts. I was surprised the lugs or lug nuts didn't deform at all.

 

[Donald]

Brake pedal vibrates when stopping.

Changed calipers, rotors and pads in the front. Problem still persists, vibrating brake pedal when going to a stop.

Slide pins all new ofcourse and lubricated. Brake hose and lines inspected looks fine. Brake fluid is clean.

Wheel alignment is fine. Ties rods, ball joints and bearings all fine.

Not sure if it's related but there is a very slight almost unnoticeable noise while driving as if the brake pads are just lightly rubbing against the rotor (front left).
This slight noise goes away when I apply brake pedal lightly as well.

I am thinking the new rotor is still warped a little bit (front left). But it just doesn't make sense because I bought the car used 2 years back and it already had new rotors replaced at the time with the same symptom.

Any thoughts?

You do know that rotors are almost never really warped although many people say that.

Most of the time the rotors are of uneven thickness around the rotor. Could be from wear or pad deposits.

Did you measure runout?

My Jeep GC would have pedal vibration unless the pads and rotors were perfect. My Dodge Ram could have crappy pads and rotors and the braking was always perfect. Aside from the Dodge Ram being a 3/4 ton with heavy duty brakes I cannot explain why the difference.

 

[MattPersman]

Likely the rear brakes

 

[tookien]

You do know that rotors are almost never really warped although many people say that.

Most of the time the rotors are of uneven thickness around the rotor. Could be from wear or pad deposits.

Did you measure runout?

My Jeep GC would have pedal vibration unless the pads and rotors were perfect. My Dodge Ram could have crappy pads and rotors and the braking was always perfect. Aside from the Dodge Ram being a 3/4 ton with heavy duty brakes I cannot explain why the difference.

You say there fine but who checked them ?

I replaced the front bearings, ball joints, links and tie rods.
It had a front wheel alignment done.
Alignment is fine.

The brake vibration has stayed the same since I bought the car.

It's not that bad but it's a little annoying.

 

[HankHill]

You do know that rotors are almost never really warped although many people say that.

Most of the time the rotors are of uneven thickness around the rotor. Could be from wear or pad deposits.

Did you measure runout?

My Jeep GC would have pedal vibration unless the pads and rotors were perfect. My Dodge Ram could have crappy pads and rotors and the braking was always perfect. Aside from the Dodge Ram being a 3/4 ton with heavy duty brakes I cannot explain why the difference.

So after reading up on the uneven thickness rotor causes and solutions to prevent it, the main preventatives they describe is the proper selection of pads specified for application, and the proper bedding procedure performed when new braking surfaces are installed. The bedding procedure for street pads they describe is quite detailed, requires traffic free long stretches of roadways, and if is interrupted should be started all over again.
I've done this before with street performance pads that came with instructions for bedding them in, but I never even thought that regular pads should be done as well.

Do any shops ever perform a bedding process on brakes they install?

Do any high end manufacturers with expensive braking components ever perform the steps?

Does anyone ever do this, or is the process just ignored and performance is accepted without the procedure?

For reference bedding info