P1167 Honda O2 Sensor

[mclasser]

Got a CEL this morning on my Accord for P1167, which is most likely a bad O2 sensor (Honda calls it an air/fuel ratio sensor). I have the California-spec splendid-for-the-environment engine so of course the O2 sensor is special (read more expensive). Many people online said aftermarket Denso and NGK sensors don't work correctly and the $300 one from Honda is required. Luckily it's easy to get to right upfront in the engine before the catalytic converter. Switching back-and-forth from drive to reverse makes the RPMs drops quite a bit and the idle becomes rough. There is also some upper engine chatter. But the car pulls hard and drives fine otherwise.

 

[ajchien]

Double check the online internet chatter. My Honda CRV is doing fine with the Denso brand. Online crv forums support Denso as working with CrVs.

 

[Dave Hess]

We are a Honda family, Denso worked just fine in our Hondas.

 

[DuckRyder]

Unless there is something very special about the CA sensor, a Denso FTF from Amazon will do just fine.

 

[mclasser]

Did a little more research and it seems people were having issues because Denso lists 2 different part numbers. Only one part # works for SULEV/ULEV engines. The factory sensor is from Denso and I know they're a good company. I'm just going to go with their part, which costs nearly 60% less than the Honda dealer. Hopefully I can get by using my 22 mm open ended wrench instead of getting a special O2 sensor socket.

 

[zvm77us]

you can rent the socket for free at autozone

 

[The_Eric]

95 perecent of the sensors I take out are done stone cold with a 22mm or 7/8" wrench.

 

[ryanschillinger]

Check rockauto for the sensor. I'm even luckier than you, my 96 Civic HX 5 speed takes a unique 5 wire wideband upstream O2 sensor. Of course it went bad. Dealer cost was somewhere between $6-700, but I got a Denso from rockauto for under $160. Been in there a while now, and has about 10k miles on it with no CEL return. I had initially removed the original, cleaned it with carb cleaner, and reinstalled it. CEL was off for a few weeks, but came back. Bought the replacement and no issues.

 

[artbuc]

Originally Posted By: mclasser
Did a little more research and it seems people were having issues because Denso lists 2 different part numbers. Only one part # works for SULEV/ULEV engines. The factory sensor is from Denso and I know they're a good company. I'm just going to go with their part, which costs nearly 60% less than the Honda dealer. Hopefully I can get by using my 22 mm open ended wrench instead of getting a special O2 sensor socket.


Unless you are extraordinarily lucky, you are making a big mistake with the open end. You will likely round off the sensor and be royally screwed. Forget about the special O2 socket because it will flex unless you reinforce it with a hose clamp. If you know your sensor is cooked, cut off the wires and use a 22mm 6 point deep socket or box wrench. Hit her with PB Blaster several times a day for several days.

BTW, everyone calls wide band O2 sensors air/fuel sensors, not just Honda. And Denso aftermarket a/f sensors work great in Japanese cars.

 

[The_Eric]

No he's not. Like I said the overwhelming majority of the sensors I remove are done with an open end wrench. It's best to do them cold- slip the wrench on and give it a big thump with the meaty part of your hand and they'll almost always spin loose.

You are right though- sometimes you need to cut the harness and put the box end on. It's up to the OP to know when to quit while he's ahead.