Opti Coat 2.0 the Ultimate coating

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For anybody that does not know Opti Coat is not a wax or a sealant. It is a ceramic ultra hard coating that is harder than factory clear coating. It is a permanent coating (you must prep the surface properly) that only comes off if you abrade it off with compound just like the clear coat on a car. You can not wash it off even with harsh detergents. I applied it to my new Avalanche over a year ago just after buying it and the coating is still going strong. I will never have to do anything other than wash these. No need to ever apply wax or a sealant for as long as we own either of them.


I just did my wifes new Infiniti QX60 with 400 miles on it. The paint is flawless and has no dealer induced swirls or any defects so I did not have to polish this car out first.

Wash with griots car wash and a crspotless Let air dry for an hour
Go over each panel with CarPro Eraser and clean microfiber to make absolutely sure no oils are on the surface
Apply the opti coat 2.0 to ALL hard surfaces including all trim, chrome, lens's, wheels and all glass


















 
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looks good. you will be thanking yourself when you get your first bird bomb. opticoat is awesome on the wheels. I have it on both of my rides and one of them since opticoat first came out . it is an impressive product for sure.
 
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Originally Posted By: matrass
looks good. you will be thanking yourself when you get your first bird bomb. opticoat is awesome on the wheels. I have it on both of my rides and one of them since opticoat first came out . it is an impressive product for sure.



Yes sir I put it on the wheels also. You sound like you must visit the autopia forums? Not many people I show this stuff to has ever heard of it.
 
Not to be a 'downer' and your results may vary... but Chris Thomas plainly stated that CarPro Eraser should NOT be used for OC 2.0 or OC Pro prep.
 
In the third picture the garage floor needs to be swept.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: genynnc
Not to be a 'downer' and your results may vary... but Chris Thomas plainly stated that CarPro Eraser should NOT be used for OC 2.0 or OC Pro prep.









I have heard it both ways. A ton of guys on autopia and other forums use it before opti coat. I have never heard of anybody having any issues with it. I guess we will find out! I think it worked pretty good because the eraser made the paint surface grabby which means it was perfectly clean and oil free.

Here is an example


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto...coat-2-0-a.html
 
Originally Posted By: genynnc
Not to be a 'downer' and your results may vary... but Chris Thomas plainly stated that CarPro Eraser should NOT be used for OC 2.0 or OC Pro prep.






Yup, that is correct.

Eraser contains a significant concentration of surfactants - you can see this in the MSDS. It is unclear whether this will negatively impact the longevity of Opti-Coat.

Some have reported streaking during the application of Opti-Coat if Eraser was used.

With that said, I know of a few detailers who use Eraser exclusively and do not report any issues. And sometimes, with very soft solid color paints, Eraser is the only way to wipe down a vehicle without inflicting marring.

Are you sure that the dealer did not apply any paint sealant or spray wax during their PDI process? If they did, Eraser will not remove them; a light finishing polish with abrasives (followed with an IPA wipe) is the only sure way to ensure a properly prepped surface.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: genynnc
Not to be a 'downer' and your results may vary... but Chris Thomas plainly stated that CarPro Eraser should NOT be used for OC 2.0 or OC Pro prep.






Yup, that is correct.

Eraser contains a significant concentration of surfactants - you can see this in the MSDS. It is unclear whether this will negatively impact the longevity of Opti-Coat.

Some have reported streaking during the application of Opti-Coat if Eraser was used.

With that said, I know of a few detailers who use Eraser exclusively and do not report any issues. And sometimes, with very soft solid color paints, Eraser is the only way to wipe down a vehicle without inflicting marring.

Are you sure that the dealer did not apply any paint sealant or spray wax during their PDI process? If they did, Eraser will not remove them; a light finishing polish with abrasives (followed with an IPA wipe) is the only sure way to ensure a properly prepped surface.




I asked them not to prep the car so they just washed it.
 
Originally Posted By: ProStreetCamaro

so they just washed it.

A dealer wash that didn't induce any marring, swirls, scratches etc. Wow, I would play the lottery because your one lucky guy! That almost never happens.
 
Originally Posted By: FastEddie
Originally Posted By: ProStreetCamaro

so they just washed it.

A dealer wash that didn't induce any marring, swirls, scratches etc. Wow, I would play the lottery because your one lucky guy! That almost never happens.



There was one scuff on the hood and a quick pass with the PC and HD uno took care of it. It is the only spot I found on the entire truck. This thing had that white protector film on it. I told them to remove it and do a simple wash so I could inspect it when we took delivery.
 
Just a tip for those who may read this thread --

I used to use a generic yellow foam applicator to apply OC 2.0.

I was told to try using the carpro block + suede method. I finally had a chance to try this method of applying OC 2.0, and boy, I've been missing out.

First, the suede does not absorb the OC 2.0 like the yellow foam does. Simply draw 2-3 lines across the length of the suede and do a cross-hatch section. The OC 2.0 spreads much more evenly and effortlessly.

I would estimate that I have a 80-90% reduction in high spots, and because the product is being spread out so evenly, any high spot I get is easily wiped off after 5 minutes (can't say this about the other method, since I would sometimes get some really heavy high spots).

So if you're thinking about applying OC 2.0 -- I would definitely consider this method.
 
Just wanted to share the new FAQ from Optimum on application directions and post-application care:

Quote:
What do I have to prep/clean the surface with after polishing?

If you use Optimum polishes, you simply dry wipe to remove polishing residue and you can go straight to Opti Coat without the need for a chemical wipe down. This is the preferred method for all pros and the official recommendation of OPT. Opti-Coat Pro even comes with a modified polish that not only preps like the other polishes, but also promotes bonding.

If you choose to use another brand of polish, you're operating outside of the recommended guidelines and results may vary. Your goal is to make sure the paint is void of any surface contamination that could inhibit the bond. This includes oils, silicones, waxes, overspray, or anything that is not bare paint. IPA wipedowns are common and do a decent job of cleaning, but it can take more than one wipedown and IPA is not very slick...so, it can allow your towel to marr on soft paint finishes. Do yourself a favor and do it right the first time without seeing what you can get by with.

How is the surface prep/clean different for Optimum polishes?

Optimum Polishes do not contain excessive oils, fillers, nor any remnants that would inhibit bonding. There may be some other polishes that would perform this way...but OPT (nor any other manufacturer that I know of) can dedicate time to extensive testing of competing products. OPT polishes wipe away clean and even if you overwork the product to the point it's hard to remove, you can simply remove the residue with a water dampened microfiber or even wash dilution ONR without the need for a chemical wipedown.

Can I prep/clean with ONR?

ONR alone is not good enough. You can do a pre coating wipedown with ONR if you need to remove Optimum polish residue or dust accumulation pre coating, but best practices will always include a paint decontamination step and a polishing step. Decon with remove the bulk of accumulated grime and polishing will remove the rest unless the finish is severely neglected.

What is my window for recoating/second coat?

There are too many variables to state a definitive amount of time...but, it's easy to determine with a test spot. Simply wipe Opti Coat on and wait a couple of minutes. You will be able to see if it flashes to clear or is rejected. I've successfully added a second coat at 1 hour, 1 week, 2 weeks, 1 month and 2.5 months. Also, if yup need to recoat but your test spot rejected the coat, yup only need a quick pass with Optimum Finish or Hyper Polish to micro abrade the surface enough to accept the next coat. I've also used compressed air and/or heat to force flash the first coat so the second coat could be applied faster.

How long before it can get wet/be washed/be exposed to chemicals?

Opti Coat can get wet after an hour, but this means ensure...not handling.
Opti Coat can be washed with ONR or a dedicated wash shampoo (nothing strong and no APC) after 3-7 days.
Opti Coat can be exposed to heavier solvents and degreasers after 7-10 days.

These are answers based on my experience with the products over the last 5 years as a Detailer, a beta tester for Optimum, conversations with Dr. G, and my 3 years offering online product support for OPT.



http://optimumforums.org/index.php?showtopic=4949&p=19322
 
+1 on the suede tip. Been using it for Opti 2.0 and CQUK. Picked this tip up from Corey/CarPro.
 
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