Any experience with Dynamat products? I read a lot of great reviews on the web and thinking about doing my 2010 corolla - doors, floors and trunk, trying to make it quieter at highway speeds...
opinions on dynamat?
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I put Dynamat Extreme in the doors of my old Ranger which did not have cab insulation from the factory (base model). It reduced noise inside the cab greatly, the doors made a nice "luxury car" thunk when I shut them, and the bass from the door speakers improved greatly. It was a very worthwhile upgrade in that truck. Installation wasn't too bad and considering it's a very tacky material meant to be installed permanently, it's really not too messy to work with. The smell goes away after a couple days.
I can't speak to the Dynamat product but I have used BQuiet on a couple of cars. I got it off Ebay; good seller. As I recall, it cost less than Dynamat and had better acoustics. There are some websites you can visit where they talk about the different results of the various products.
It made a big difference for my cars, too. In my older Ranger, I didn't have enough left to do the entire floor, nor the roof, but I did inside the doors and up the back panel of the cab. I was hesitant about dropping the headliner at the time but I understand that's a huge area for extra benefit to be had.
It was pretty easy to work with. Keep in mind that, contrary to what some of us BITOGers like to think--that nothing succeeds like excess
-- you don't absolutely have to cover every square inch of the surface to make a big improvement.
What the stuff does is add mass to the sheetmetal to dampen sound transmission. I suspect you'll discover your Corolla already has some similar material under the rear seat cushion or under the carpet already. Adding more will help, though.
The trunk is often overlooked for sound deadening for cost reasons by the mfgr's, and is a big noise source (note how the car gets quieter when the trunk is packed for a long trip). It's also really easy to do first to get the hang of it.
Good luck and keep us posted.
It made a big difference for my cars, too. In my older Ranger, I didn't have enough left to do the entire floor, nor the roof, but I did inside the doors and up the back panel of the cab. I was hesitant about dropping the headliner at the time but I understand that's a huge area for extra benefit to be had.
It was pretty easy to work with. Keep in mind that, contrary to what some of us BITOGers like to think--that nothing succeeds like excess
What the stuff does is add mass to the sheetmetal to dampen sound transmission. I suspect you'll discover your Corolla already has some similar material under the rear seat cushion or under the carpet already. Adding more will help, though.
The trunk is often overlooked for sound deadening for cost reasons by the mfgr's, and is a big noise source (note how the car gets quieter when the trunk is packed for a long trip). It's also really easy to do first to get the hang of it.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Many products available that equal or better the one mentioned.
Shop online for sound deadening, it's a very worthwhile idea.
Just remember it's HEAVY!
Shop online for sound deadening, it's a very worthwhile idea.
Just remember it's HEAVY!
I used the Dynamat Hoodliner on my Toyota 4Runner turbo diesel. It completely eliminated the diesel sounds to the inside of the car.
Since it was a buy-one-get-one, I used the second piece for my Corvair Firewall. The hoodliner is an open foam that absorbs engine noises.
I used eDead on the floors and some walls of the Corvair, and have ordered it for my Mini and Renault. It dampens the resonance and vibrations.
One layer of Dynamat on inside of firewall, placed on top of the eDead
For the doors I used a couple of coats of a latex undercoating that I could spray everywhere with a long nose sprayer.
I also put fiberglass in the roof, between the metal and headliner.
In the end I have a super quiet car that feels solid.
Not really that heavy. The hoodliner is very light. Probably not even a lb for the hood. Probably another lb or two for the fiberglass roof insulation and 5 lbs for 2 liters of undercoating
The 80 mil eDead is 36 lbs for 60 sq ft. I used 54 sq ft.
So about 40 lbs for the whole thing.
Since it was a buy-one-get-one, I used the second piece for my Corvair Firewall. The hoodliner is an open foam that absorbs engine noises.
I used eDead on the floors and some walls of the Corvair, and have ordered it for my Mini and Renault. It dampens the resonance and vibrations.
One layer of Dynamat on inside of firewall, placed on top of the eDead
For the doors I used a couple of coats of a latex undercoating that I could spray everywhere with a long nose sprayer.
I also put fiberglass in the roof, between the metal and headliner.
In the end I have a super quiet car that feels solid.
Not really that heavy. The hoodliner is very light. Probably not even a lb for the hood. Probably another lb or two for the fiberglass roof insulation and 5 lbs for 2 liters of undercoating
The 80 mil eDead is 36 lbs for 60 sq ft. I used 54 sq ft.
So about 40 lbs for the whole thing.
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Check Sounddeadenershowdown, Secondskinaudio, or raamaudio.com. You will get more for your money (and better product) from each of these vs. Dynamat. Search the car audio forums for reviews.
Originally Posted By: kkreit01
Check Sounddeadenershowdown, Secondskinaudio, or raamaudio.com. You will get more for your money (and better product) from each of these vs. Dynamat. Search the car audio forums for reviews.
Agree, totally. I'd check out Don Sambrook's site @ sounddeadenershowdown.com and read through all of the pages there to get some ideas on properly deadening your vehicle. You'll save a lot of time, money and weight--and ultimately have a quieter car. Just throwing Dynamat in there is an expensive and inefficient way to go. I actually used the deadener and closed-cell foam from raamaudio. The MLV I sourced locally.
It's a LOT of time to do it correctly, but in the end it was definitely worth it.
Check Sounddeadenershowdown, Secondskinaudio, or raamaudio.com. You will get more for your money (and better product) from each of these vs. Dynamat. Search the car audio forums for reviews.
Agree, totally. I'd check out Don Sambrook's site @ sounddeadenershowdown.com and read through all of the pages there to get some ideas on properly deadening your vehicle. You'll save a lot of time, money and weight--and ultimately have a quieter car. Just throwing Dynamat in there is an expensive and inefficient way to go. I actually used the deadener and closed-cell foam from raamaudio. The MLV I sourced locally.
It's a LOT of time to do it correctly, but in the end it was definitely worth it.
Dynamat is NOT for exterior sound attenuation. it is for resonance and vibration sound.
And they say to only cover about 1/4 of the surface. it is not a sound wave stopper. Use Jute carpet underlayment and duct tape. It is cheap and works far better for road noise.
Hood of the cabin, doors, firewall,etc.
And they say to only cover about 1/4 of the surface. it is not a sound wave stopper. Use Jute carpet underlayment and duct tape. It is cheap and works far better for road noise.
Hood of the cabin, doors, firewall,etc.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Dynamat is NOT for exterior sound attenuation. it is for resonance and vibration sound.
And they say to only cover about 1/4 of the surface. it is not a sound wave stopper. Use Jute carpet underlayment and duct tape. It is cheap and works far better for road noise.
Hood of the cabin, doors, firewall,etc.
We should not generalize that all products from one brand are the same. The Hoodliner is different. It is designed for the engine noises, works, and the piece is designed for the average large hood.
I would not use anything that will hold moisture, as it will start to rust. Another advantage to the eDead and similar products is that they waterproof the floor steel.
Dynamat is NOT for exterior sound attenuation. it is for resonance and vibration sound.
And they say to only cover about 1/4 of the surface. it is not a sound wave stopper. Use Jute carpet underlayment and duct tape. It is cheap and works far better for road noise.
Hood of the cabin, doors, firewall,etc.
We should not generalize that all products from one brand are the same. The Hoodliner is different. It is designed for the engine noises, works, and the piece is designed for the average large hood.
I would not use anything that will hold moisture, as it will start to rust. Another advantage to the eDead and similar products is that they waterproof the floor steel.
The performance of noise absorbing materials is directly related to density and thickness.
Use jute or other low density products and they will have to be MUCH thicker than the asphalt based products like Dynamat.
FWIW we redid a kit car I purchased with Edead and dynamat and the difference was quite dramatic. My eventual buyer was incredibly impressed and I got my price very quickly!
Use jute or other low density products and they will have to be MUCH thicker than the asphalt based products like Dynamat.
FWIW we redid a kit car I purchased with Edead and dynamat and the difference was quite dramatic. My eventual buyer was incredibly impressed and I got my price very quickly!
Depending on the application (and area: doors, hood, trunk, etc.), you may find Q-pads at a local wholesale body shop for less $$$.
Also check out Polymer Technologies in Newark DE. www.polytechinc.com
I used plenty of the Q-pads on my old SAAB 900T to great effect. Often overlooked are poor door body seals, but you may not have that problem with a 2010 vehicle.
Also check out Polymer Technologies in Newark DE. www.polytechinc.com
I used plenty of the Q-pads on my old SAAB 900T to great effect. Often overlooked are poor door body seals, but you may not have that problem with a 2010 vehicle.
I put 2 layers of Dynamat inside my Mazda Miata doors to eliminate that "cheap" tin can sound when closing the doors.
Some time later, I was shot at by my neighbors kids with a 22, while leaving the construction of my new house, at night. The bullet went in, but did not penetrate the inside door panel. The cops were amazed!
Dynamat kept me from being perforated!
It also worked perfectly. The doors sounded like a quality car, and my 300W stereo did not rattle the doors. I left the bullet hole there for a reminder....
Some time later, I was shot at by my neighbors kids with a 22, while leaving the construction of my new house, at night. The bullet went in, but did not penetrate the inside door panel. The cops were amazed!
Dynamat kept me from being perforated!
It also worked perfectly. The doors sounded like a quality car, and my 300W stereo did not rattle the doors. I left the bullet hole there for a reminder....
Originally Posted By: Cujet
Dynamat kept me from being perforated!
You should see if Dynamat will pay you to be a spokesman!
Dynamat kept me from being perforated!
You should see if Dynamat will pay you to be a spokesman!
I am a fan of Dynamat. My whole G35 is covered in the stuff (extreme?), except for the roof. The drawback is that it is heavy and will slow you down. Definitely adds some mass and makes the car quieter and more solid. Big improvement for car audio.
I also used some kind of adhesive pads on the body panels.
I also used some kind of adhesive pads on the body panels.
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
i plan on gutting my 02 camaro to apply deadener over the winter.
in my recent research, dynamat is very expensive compared to other materials and not the best solution. actually you need to define the problem, if it's just getting rid of resonance and vibration that can be done fairly cheap with little materials and weight. If you want to block sound, then it gets expensive and heavy and what you want is mass loaded vinyl which weighs one pound per square foot. A guy on ls1tech did this project on his car and used fat matt.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-electronics/1474215-sound-deadening-project-2002-camaro.html
i plan on gutting my 02 camaro to apply deadener over the winter.
in my recent research, dynamat is very expensive compared to other materials and not the best solution. actually you need to define the problem, if it's just getting rid of resonance and vibration that can be done fairly cheap with little materials and weight. If you want to block sound, then it gets expensive and heavy and what you want is mass loaded vinyl which weighs one pound per square foot. A guy on ls1tech did this project on his car and used fat matt.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-electronics/1474215-sound-deadening-project-2002-camaro.html
I used a relatively small amount of the stuff when replacing all my speakers, just putting around the speaker mounts to replace the factory stuff, and also the rear "deck" bottom was fully covered as was the area around the "slim" subwoofer that is integrated into.the side carpeting in my trunk.
The spare wheel well got some too, as it was just painted metal. I used their firewall stuff for the firewall, and another brand's hood stuff for underneath part of my carbon fiber hood (only added about 1/3lb to the hood, but should keep heat from damaging the CF over time). Keeping in mind that everything replaced the factory sound deadening, the difference was under ten pounds of weight.
For that ten pounds, the car is quieter at speed and the sound system sounds better and the volume only needs to be 75% of what it was prior. At the volume I like, which is 20-30/100, it is almost imperceptible outside the car from 5ft away, and nothing rattles (I don't like big bass anyway, but I though a 10" sub would enhance the sound quality, which it does).
Overall, I am very pleased. Since this car is tracked, I was worried about weight so that is why I only installed as little as necessary, but the effect is pronouncex.
I would recommend it. Idk about covering the entire car, but for eliminating road noise I would think the wheel wells, hood, trunk, roof, and maybe floor would get.you the best bang for your buck. Could be wrong.
Maybe do it incrementally both to keep cost and weight down? Stop when you hit a point you like? Just an idea.
The spare wheel well got some too, as it was just painted metal. I used their firewall stuff for the firewall, and another brand's hood stuff for underneath part of my carbon fiber hood (only added about 1/3lb to the hood, but should keep heat from damaging the CF over time). Keeping in mind that everything replaced the factory sound deadening, the difference was under ten pounds of weight.
For that ten pounds, the car is quieter at speed and the sound system sounds better and the volume only needs to be 75% of what it was prior. At the volume I like, which is 20-30/100, it is almost imperceptible outside the car from 5ft away, and nothing rattles (I don't like big bass anyway, but I though a 10" sub would enhance the sound quality, which it does).
Overall, I am very pleased. Since this car is tracked, I was worried about weight so that is why I only installed as little as necessary, but the effect is pronouncex.
I would recommend it. Idk about covering the entire car, but for eliminating road noise I would think the wheel wells, hood, trunk, roof, and maybe floor would get.you the best bang for your buck. Could be wrong.
Maybe do it incrementally both to keep cost and weight down? Stop when you hit a point you like? Just an idea.
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