I might have an opportunity to score a apparent excellent condition 4x4 of this era, with the 5.7L engine, 150k miles, for about $4500. I would like a full sized 4x4 SUV with good towing ability. Feedback from the wise folks of BITOG are sought. Thanks.
Opinions of 1999 era 5.7L Chevy Tahoe and GMC Yukon?
- Thread starter CharlesInCharge
- Start date
Only big worries are, first of all it's a GM truck in the rustbelt, but at 150k expect that sometime in the future that 4L60E might need a rebuilt, and the fuel injection systems on these are apparently wonky and may need replaced with a more reliable type of mpfi system.
I've always liked these trucks. If it is truly in excellent condition (meaning no rust, tranny shifts well, etc.) that sounds like a buy in my book, presuming this is the sort of vehicle you are looking for. But these are pushing 25 years old, so the standard set of "old vehicle" problems applies. The fuel economy is going to be dismal, but that's not surprising. I just wouldn't want to drive it for a long commute, but for more limited use this shouldn't be a big issue, and that is more an issue with the category than these specific trucks.
That's funny i used to also own a white 1999 suburban 5.7. was a great suv i just didn't need another and sold it in 2014 for $200 more than what i paid for it in 2009. it was a great truck just make sure the one you're looking at isn't clapped.
They are solid, if not thirsty. Low points are the trans, CSPI spider/IMGs(and yes, Dex-Cool/Prestone/Dex-Clone is A-OK once the cooling system is citric acid flushed and new OE GM/Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus gaskets are installed). And the variable-assist PSP can be a sore point.
I’ve always liked how the GMT400s looked.
I’ve always liked how the GMT400s looked.
At that mileage, it may also need a new driver seat cover and foam cushion. Not a big deal and it can wait, but don't injure your back trying to make it last.
Parts are readily available:
Parts are readily available:
I just want to echo everything here. My 1998 C1500 is in mint condition with 85K miles on it. I keep it in a storage unit near my house and when I take it out for a cruise, I often feel lucky to make it back. For a while it felt like every time I drove it something needed to be repaired. The worst was as I was backing it into the storage unit, when I went to shift from park to reverse the cable from the shifter to the transmission broke and had to call a tow truck to take it to my mechanic. Still won't sell it.
I also have a 1995 C1500 with around 115k miles on it that isn't in quite as nice of a condition that I keep at my parents house in rural South Texas. It's actually been the more reliable of the two but still just everything plastic or rubber starts to break down or become brittle with time.
From photos it looks excellent but one never knows...
I'd hate to have such an older GM vehicle and break down on the PA Turnpike 125 miles from home towing a travel trailer on a 4 day off Labor Day Weekend.
Don't be surprised when your far away from home the typical older GM stuff takes a crap like the starter, water pump, alternator, fuel pump....no matter how well the previous owner(s) maintained it.
Don't be surprised when your far away from home the typical older GM stuff takes a crap like the starter, water pump, alternator, fuel pump....no matter how well the previous owner(s) maintained it.
Like this scenario has never happened to older non GM vehicles!
Like this scenario has never happened to older non GM vehicles!
My wife was far away from home in my VW GTI when one of the two fuel pumps died.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/replaced-the-high-pressure-fuel-pump-on-my-gti.287965/
one of the best years that they made them. love that engine !
If it runs good I'd make sure and go on a nice long test drive. Get it good and hot and make sure there are no issues.
JHZR2
Staff member
Hmmm…. My 98 S-10 ZR2 only needed a 4x4 vacuum valve and rubber vac hose. If I had a 2wd, that all would have been moot. But the OE mirror did break off at the screw mount points! So I get what you say about plastic parts…
I’d drive it across country tomorrow.
Wonderful platform. By now the plastics will all be brittle and cracking. @skyactiv offers practical wisdom to check the use case. My boss had two high mileage examples that I helped him work on. One developed a series of repeating electrical problems that finally sent it away. I wouldn’t be scared of one if it showed up.
A lot of the fuel pump failures on this chassis are a result of low voltage (Voltage Drop) in the Fuel Pump power & ground circuits.
Racetronix makes full replacement harness for these that includes all new wiring & a heavy duty relay.
Part# FPWH-001 fits modules with Delphi 150 Series (Square 4) Connectors.....The factory Module & some Aftermarket Modules use this style.
Part# FPWH-023 fits modules with Delphi 280 Series (Flat 4) Connectors......Updated GM Modules & most Aftermarket Modules use this style.
I prefer the 280 Series for it's higher amperage carrying capacity, Install a new updated GM OE fuel pump module at the same time.
Absolutely upgrade the Poppet Style Injectors to MPI.....This also takes some load off the fuel pump as the MPI conversion runs lower "Regulated" pressure.
Upgrade the Intake Gaskets to Fel-Pro Part# MS 98000 T.......Don't use the included RTV for the end sealing, Use Permatex Ultra Grey or Permatex Right Stuff.
*Pitting around the Lower Intake Coolant passages is quite common, If it's minor.....Use Hylomar M on both sides of the gasket @ the 4 Coolant Passages. If it's worse than just minor pitting.....Use one of the 2 above RTV's in the same manner.
*The Quick Connect Heater Hose Connection at the Lower Intake is very problematic, I like the eliminate it altogether & replace it with a 1/2" NPT to 3/4" nipple fitting.....This will require replacing the 3/4" Heater Hose entirely (Heater Core to Intake). SUV's with rear heat will have a Heater Control Valve that is also problematic.
*The Distributor Gear is almost sacrificial on these.....Inspect it very carefully for wear while the Intake is off.
*The Distributor Housing is Plastic & ham fisted mechanics love to strip/break the housing when installing a Distributor Cap.
*Burning a hole through the Ignition Rotor is fairly common with bad Ignition Wires &/or Worn Spark Plugs.
*If you do buy it & need help correctly stabbing the Distributor....Let me know.
*Oil leaking on the Crank Sensor Connector (Front Cover) has a tendency to destroy/eat the wiring insulation on the Crank Sensor Circuits.
*HVAC Door Actuators failures are common as are HVAC Control Head failures.
*A/C Compressor leaking....It's just a fact of life with Harrison H6 Compressors. There are Sanden replacements that don't suffer from this affliction.
*Door Pin Bushings wearing out.....If a door isn't closing correctly....Fix the Pins right away before the Latches get destroyed! This also contributes to broken interior & exterior door handles!
Some 4L60E's fail early & some go seemingly forever, There are several upgrades to do when/if it needs rebuilt.
It probably seems I'm painting these as unreliable, They're actually pretty good trucks second only to the GMT800 Chassis.
Racetronix makes full replacement harness for these that includes all new wiring & a heavy duty relay.
Part# FPWH-001 fits modules with Delphi 150 Series (Square 4) Connectors.....The factory Module & some Aftermarket Modules use this style.
Part# FPWH-023 fits modules with Delphi 280 Series (Flat 4) Connectors......Updated GM Modules & most Aftermarket Modules use this style.
I prefer the 280 Series for it's higher amperage carrying capacity, Install a new updated GM OE fuel pump module at the same time.
Absolutely upgrade the Poppet Style Injectors to MPI.....This also takes some load off the fuel pump as the MPI conversion runs lower "Regulated" pressure.
Upgrade the Intake Gaskets to Fel-Pro Part# MS 98000 T.......Don't use the included RTV for the end sealing, Use Permatex Ultra Grey or Permatex Right Stuff.
*Pitting around the Lower Intake Coolant passages is quite common, If it's minor.....Use Hylomar M on both sides of the gasket @ the 4 Coolant Passages. If it's worse than just minor pitting.....Use one of the 2 above RTV's in the same manner.
*The Quick Connect Heater Hose Connection at the Lower Intake is very problematic, I like the eliminate it altogether & replace it with a 1/2" NPT to 3/4" nipple fitting.....This will require replacing the 3/4" Heater Hose entirely (Heater Core to Intake). SUV's with rear heat will have a Heater Control Valve that is also problematic.
*The Distributor Gear is almost sacrificial on these.....Inspect it very carefully for wear while the Intake is off.
*The Distributor Housing is Plastic & ham fisted mechanics love to strip/break the housing when installing a Distributor Cap.
*Burning a hole through the Ignition Rotor is fairly common with bad Ignition Wires &/or Worn Spark Plugs.
*If you do buy it & need help correctly stabbing the Distributor....Let me know.
*Oil leaking on the Crank Sensor Connector (Front Cover) has a tendency to destroy/eat the wiring insulation on the Crank Sensor Circuits.
*HVAC Door Actuators failures are common as are HVAC Control Head failures.
*A/C Compressor leaking....It's just a fact of life with Harrison H6 Compressors. There are Sanden replacements that don't suffer from this affliction.
*Door Pin Bushings wearing out.....If a door isn't closing correctly....Fix the Pins right away before the Latches get destroyed! This also contributes to broken interior & exterior door handles!
Some 4L60E's fail early & some go seemingly forever, There are several upgrades to do when/if it needs rebuilt.
It probably seems I'm painting these as unreliable, They're actually pretty good trucks second only to the GMT800 Chassis.
My neighbor has one with about 200K on it and it doesnt miss a beat. If it were me i would check it out thoroughly even put it on a rack if possible.. i would then buy it and flip it. Then i would spend that money on a 2500 series with a 6.0
