Older snow blower gearbox oil

[jeepman3071]

I've read a few threads about some GF-5 gear oils being harmful to the brass/bronze gears inside the gear case for the augers.

I have some Red Line Synthetic 75w90 left over from my Jeep, and some Ariens L3 gear box lube left over from a neighbor's Ariens that I serviced. The owner's manual for my 1978 Toro 826 says to use a 90 weight EP transmission oil.

Ariens also sells part# 00006000 which is SAE 90 weight MP gear oil. What is the difference between EP and MP? Would this be suitable to use? The Ariens dealer is right down the street from me.

Normally I just use Valvoline 80w90 in the gear boxes of snow blowers I service, but this reading has got me thinking!

 

[jeepman3071]

Would Amsoil Marine gear lube work for this application? Says it is EP rated, and safe for aluminum and brass.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/gear-lube/universal-synthetic-marine-gear-lube/?code=AGMTB-EA

 

[1989outlaw]

I have used super-tech 80w-90 in lots of roto tiller gear cases . they have some brass gears too . Never had a problem I could blame on the oil . Now when you lend out your tiller to a buddy and he tries to till up buried bricks you will have trouble when he brings it back . LOL . If you are changing gear case oil you've already done way more than most folks will . Most people never even think of the gear oil , only the engine .

 

[1 FMF]

the GL5 EP gear oils hurting yellow metals comes mostly from older gear oils when they get hot would be corrosive. but my understanding is that's not the case with gear oils today, it's been mentioned in the gear oil forum that the additive package has changed where it's more stable at higher temperatures.
it's not like cold or room temperature gear oil is going to dissolve yellow metal, it was related to temperature and i believe it had to get over a certain temperature for that to happen like 200°F. given your application is a snowblower and unless you operate it somehow in the summertime i doubt you'll have a problem with any gear oil.

 

[lars11]

No, you can't say that "modern" gear oils are ok with yellow metals beacause lots of GL5 are not ok.
Most GL4 only oils are non corrosive.
Look in the PDS for copper corrosion numbers, 1A or 1B would be ok.

 

[Bror Jace]

lars11, is it possible it's still a problem with gear oils available in Europe?

I remember Molakule repeatedly saying on this board that the corrosive effects of modern GL5 oils have been overstated. Most have been fine for the last 10-15+ years.

Any of the premium GL5s (I think both Amsoil and Red Line Oil would qualify - ask them) should be safe. If you can find a dual-rated GL4/GL5 oil you would be super-safe. Chevron Delo 80W90 is one. I think I've seen some Coastal gear oils that are rated similarly.

You can also look for the copper corrosion rating as lars11 mentioned.

]i]"If you are changing gear case oil you've already done way more than most folks will.[/i]

Agreed. I(f you change your gearbox/diff oil every 3-5 years (to flush out wear debris and moisture contamination) you are already taking better care of your machine than 95% of owners.

 

[meborder]

i was able to get 90w GL-1 at NAPA for a reasonable price. I did have to order it, though (not something they stock on hand)

I'd go that route if you think there might be yellow metals in the gear box.

alternatively, Harvest King makes a 90wt transmission oil that you should be able to find at your local farm/ag supply store.

 

[lars11]

well, I think most oils are alike over here, and maybe the term "dicoloration" will not kill a worm drive..

But on the other hand some oils can harm copper and it's not fun to rip the gears for whatever reason if you can avoid it. Have seen unreasonably sloppy and pitted brass gears that sure look "rusted away".

Mobil does not seem too exited about GL5 and copper either, so I suggest to find explicitly "yellow approved" oil since it shouldnt be a big problem.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Moto...low_Metals.aspx

 

[threeputtpar]

I see that you really didn't get any good answers over at Snowblower Forum either

My opinion - I really don't think you'll do any harm using a GL-4 rated manual trans gear lube. Unless your auger drums are rusted tight onto the shaft, the shear bolts should give before the auger gears are toasted in the unlikely event that you hit something large.

I've always used Supertech 80W-90 when I needed to top up auger cases and have yet to run into any issues. I've never actually hit anything large enough to snap the shear pins, so I've never tested the 80W-90's ability to protect against a good shock load.

 

[jeepman3071]

The augers move freely on the shaft. I had them off about a month ago to clean up and paint some rusty areas on the blower. I used anti-seize on the shaft before I put them back on.

I think I will use Amsoil Marine gear lube. It says safe for yellow metals and is EP rated. Plus it is marine grade so that might protect a bit more against moisture. I have a few snow blowers I service so it won't go to waste.

 

[bpracer]

My 1981 Toro 624 has been running lower unit lube in its gearbox for many moons. It works fine.

 

[gman2304]

I've used the Sta-Lube brand of GL4 gear lube from NAPA in my tillers worm drives for years.