Old Ford 300 I6 alternator -- ID and how to excite?

Yes you can connect full voltage to both wires. The regulator will prevent any damage.

Another point of interest on these is the D shaped test hole in the back of the case near the screw stub that is sticking out. Inserting a small screwdriver into this hole will ground the metal tab inside. Doing that with the engine running should cause the alternator to go "full field" and charge with maximum output. That of course should only be done for a few seconds.
 
These alternators are as common as can be so if it still doesn't work a new one doesn't cost that much. I wouldn't go back to the Ford alternator as most of them were swapped to delcos back in the day anyways. A rebuild kit isn't much money and a reman one used to not be much money.
 
These alternators are as common as can be so if it still doesn't work a new one doesn't cost that much. I wouldn't go back to the Ford alternator as most of them were swapped to delcos back in the day anyways. A rebuild kit isn't much money and a reman one used to not be much money.
Yeah I wasn't even aware but the link you provided to Mad Electrical was incredibly helpful.

I did some research on the connector today and O'Reilly didn't have any of the common suspects like Wells or AC Delco or even Standard. But through some gymnastics I found it crosses to a Dorman 85841.

Anyway I told the owner there was a chance I could get his alternator going. As it is he seems to run straight off the battery then haul it back to his house to charge it. But he said he wants to just leave it as-is for now. Makes no sense but whatever.
 
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