Old doors that are hard to shut

[crw]

So, on my 1988 Chev pickup, and also on my 1975 BMW, each has a door that you really have to slam hard to get it to shut all the way. Usually I shut the door, and it only latches part way.. so that it's loose. Then I have to open it again and really shut it hard to get it to become completely shut.

What can be done, if anything, for these doors?

 

[bruno]

Lubrication for a start . The lock mechanisms are likely to be cruddy by now .

 

[94astro]

I cannot comment on the BMW but after 21 years in the auto body business I can tell you about the problems with the pickup. Pins and bushings wear out on these quite often, to check, open the door & raise and lower the it from the rear of the door, if you have much movement, pins & bushings need replaced to correct the problem.

 

[Kestas]

Like astro said, make sure the doors line up and aren't sagging from wear just before they shut.

 

[mechtech2]

New pins or hinges, adjust the hinges.
New lock , or adjust the lockstriker.
Of course lube things. If the hinges are taken apart, then grease is good, otherwise use an oil that will penetrate INSIDE.
Some Mercedes used to have grease fittings. How cool.

 

[crw]

OK, thanks. I had a Ford with doors that sagged pretty bad. These doors do not appear to sag, but I'll check that. This is a sub-$1000 truck, which goes up in value after a fuel stop, so I'll probably not get into parts replacement.

The BMW is another story. I'll need to figure that one out. I don't believe it's a hinge issue.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Some Mercedes used to have grease fittings. How cool.


Oil fittings. Oil was the correct lube.

How one properly gets enough pressure to get it in there, Im all ears.

What oil with penetrating ability would you recommend to lube? I need to do this, come to think of it!

 

[Kestas]

Are you sure you need pressure? Oil naturally wicks into crevices quite well.

 

[toneydoc]

You might check to latch that is attached to your body of car. They have screws that hold them in place and I have adjusted one from time to time. Check and see that your door latch mechanism hits it in the middle.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: Kestas
Are you sure you need pressure? Oil naturally wicks into crevices quite well.


The grease fittings described before are actually little spring-loaded ball bearings on the hinge. The issue is that if you take an oil can, the bearing against the opening keeps the oil from flowing out. You need more oil pressure to overcome the spring pressure and let oil flow by.

My oil can just does not do it.

Ill have to snap a pic of the oil fitting.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: crw
So, on my 1988 Chev pickup, and also on my 1975 BMW, each has a door that you really have to slam hard to get it to shut all the way. Usually I shut the door, and it only latches part way.. so that it's loose. Then I have to open it again and really shut it hard to get it to become completely shut.

With the door partly-open, squat down so you can sight along a line between the door latch centerline and the hasp on the door jamb.

Now SLOWLY close the door so you can see the latch approach the hasp. Are they in line, or is the latch much lower than the hasp? As you continue to close the door, can you see the latch contact the hasp, then try and climb uphill as it contacts?

If so, the door hinges are worn.

 

[Rick in PA]

You could do what I did (others feel free to grimace). My wife's van is getting very near the end of its life and the driver's door was closing hard. Sagging door, worn hinge. I put a floor jack under the (open) door, loosened the top hinge bolts, jacked it up just a leetle, and tightened those hinge bolt. Closes fine now...