ol' faithfull Cutlass dead....

[Mud]

You said that you checked the battery and it was 630 amps at 12+ volts. Did you check it under load?

Lotsa times a battery that powers lights and radio cannot generate the amperage needed for the starter motor. It can energize the solenoid, but cannot run the starter motor.

We can often talk ourselves into the new car/higher reliability scenario, but that's not always a sure thing. Sounds like you've had a car that has been pretty reliable.

This problem does not sound major at all and I agree with the other posters about grounding, cables, etc. Especially internal rot in the cables. When I'm in this situation and I narrow it down to a couple of probable culprits, since it's my "free" labor I sometimes go ahead and replace those probables, depending on part costs.

So if you wind up sticking in another starter and some cables, you are still WAY under the cost of even the floormats on that new car! Plus, you won't get much $$ for the car, so why not keep it as a back-up?

My last 3 cars have been used and I've had excellent luck with them. I can't see buying brand new anymore, letting that first buyer take the depreciation hit.

 

[kingrob]

quote:

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Originally posted by kingrob:
I'd say if you can get it fixed for less than a hundred do it! In all honesty you've probably got another 100k left on that engine at least. It may be a little noisy but it's a workhorse motor. Just keep an eye on that intake manifold...
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The 3300 is based on the 3800. The 3300 is not known for intake gasket problems. They didn't start until the plastic gaskets and DEXCOOL came out.

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FWIW I've had the 2.8, 3.1, 3.3, 3.4, and 3.8's and all have had a faulty intake manifold gasket, from '89-99. I've also had a couple of headgaskets blow on the 3.1's and 2.8's.

 

[Mud]

Agree with kingrob. Our 99 Cutlass has given very good service and has had the intake issue. I replaced it some time back and all has been fine since. Dexcool has been used again.
Dexcool is NOT the cause of the intake gasket leakage. It is due to poor initial gasket design and poor clamping force from the too-small intake bolts that loosen up.
However, Dexcool does not play well with air in the system - this adds to the problem of a leaking intake since the system not only leaks but draws air in as well through the leak. Results in accelerated sludge-up of the cooling system.

 

[The Critic]

quote:

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Originally posted by PandaBear:
Regarding to buying an Accord, be aware that even Honda have some issues with the automatic transmission, especially the V6 5sp auto. I suggest you should look for a Camry if that is a concern to you if you want something similar. Or try a domestic that has reputation for reliability, the newer models aren't that bad.

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Incorrect.

The Automatic Transmission issues with the 6-cyl Honda/Acuras have been 100% resolved. The only transmission issues that took place was on the 6th gen Accord, Odyssey, MDX, and Pilots. Basically any 6-cyl Honda made up until 2003.

Some of the 6-cyl 3rd Generation TLs had the issues as well, if they were of an early build 2004 model which makes me wonder why ToyotaNSaturn's VUE isn't affected. Perhaps his wasn't an early build?

Schmoe, there were TONs of transmission problems with the 03 Honda V6 transmissions. For example, we had one Acura TL Type S (2003) blow their factory automatic transmission with only 8000 original miles.

However, no reports of failure on any new 04+ Honda V6s and NO known transmission problems existed with the 4-cyls, regardless of year.

Michael

 

[Gary Allan]

I'm with Mud on checking the battery under load. If you can't find any obvious connection problems (which is the first thing indicated with a bump of the key and everything going dead) ..the I would think that the battery is defective/shorted.

 

[Schmoe]

Well those transmissions are only now starting to get some miles on them. We'll see. Those problems are not 100% resolved. Honda is still putting the spray jet kit on their transmission as a "hopeful" stop gap measure. Some of the trans. that are failing are the ones with the spray jet "fix" installed at the dealership. The factory is now installing them on ALL their 5AT's. Doesn't sound like a fix to me, merely a cover.

 

[Schmoe]

OK, got the car running again. Battery cable just totally burned out. Age I guess. Here's another question that some have answered. Do I keep it? Car has the following issues, now be mindful that it is a '90s model and has over 200K on it.
Headliner falling, pulls hard to the right, gas guage doesn't work, driver side window, electric, works when it wants to, also needs trans. serviced and time for an oil change.
If I sell it, I'm sure these issues will come up. I don't want to give the car away, but it's in great shape, never been wrecked. AC still throws icecubes at you. Get's 28 plus mpg and doesn't use a drop of oil. What would be a good price? To get those things mentioned above would probably run about 5 to 8 hundred dollars. The window, it's the motor, so that will have to removed and replaced.

 

[terminaldegree]

Consider the costs involved:

Headliner replacement - $100-200 [approx]
Alignment - $40-50 [assuming no replacement of hardware]
Gas gauge problem - I dunno
Window motor/regulator - I dunno
Trans service - $20 [DIY]
Oil change - $10 [DIY]

$180-280 for that list so far. That's less than many monthly car payments, for just ONE month. If you can safely assume that the car will keep running for longer than one more month, then why not keep it? Even if it cost $500 to fix everything [seems possible to me], you are saving money to keep it on the road even a few months longer rather than to buy something new/newer.

Of course, you wouldn't recoup all those costs when you sold the car, but I think you'd still be saving money in the long run.

One other thing I thought of [cheap fix]-- perhaps borrow some of the broken window motor from one of the other, less used power windows in the car...

 

[eljefino]

If your ciera is like mine the wires in the door hinge go to pot. The copper strands metal fatigue inside the insulation. Next time you have trouble open the door and wiggle that rubber snake that holds the wiring.

Grab some lamp cord off an appliance from the dump and splice it in. You only have to pull the door panel off and it'll rattle when you reinstall it. of course you probably rattle anyway.

Note if you have the express down feature your door mounted switch sends a signal to a relay module under the dash that then sends power back through the hinge to lower the window. Why couldn't they put that module in the door? (rhetorical). I bypassed this and held the switch with my own finger rather than string more lamp cord.

Also expect trouble with the solenoids that relax the door mounted seatbelts when the door is open. Mine went on the fritz and lit the "fasten seat belt" light permanently (as a trouble indicator).

 

[Schmoe]

No express down feature. I've been told that what is happening is a tell-tale sign of the motor fixing to go out. The gas guage will basically require removing the tank. It works, it just stays on full all the time. When it gets low, the guage will read about 3/4 tank. I suspect the float is stuck, but to get to it?????
Window....that is not in my league. I'd have to get someone or someplace to do it and from what I've been told, it isn't cheap. Lots of labor involved. Pulling to the right....well....the wife smacked a curb during an ice storm 5 years ago and bent the struts. The mechanic that fixed said that the alignment will be off a little because the right side tie rod was bent a little and could only adjust it so far without replacing it. To replace it at that time was about 250, which I didn't have. I've been having it re-aligned annually and it doesn't pull to the right no where as near as it does now, but none the less, she does pull all the time. I've learned to live with it and rotate the tires often.

 

[T-Keith]

Is having a working gas gauge and the other few issues worth 200-300 a month plus down payment, higher insurance, worrying about damage, and possibly worse mileage? Stick with it, most of those problems sound minor. The headliner can be fixed for around $50 in parts, an alignment is $40-60.

 

[M3 Mitch]

Without looking, the gas gauge is probably the sending unit, those are usually available either new or junkyard, and not that hard to fix.

Sounds to me like you should keep the car, it's worth more to you than to someone who doesn't know it.