ol' faithfull Cutlass dead....

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My ol' faithful 90' Cutlass Ciera, with 201K on the clock, died on my yesterday. Went to crank it, and nothing. I heard a click as in the starter engaging and then everything went dead. No dome lights, no lights, no chimes no nothing. Of course, suspected the battery. Took it out and it had 630 Amps at 12.53 volts, plus I just bought it this year. Thought maybe the cable connections were bad, they weren't. Cleaned them and then re-installed. Same problem, no dome lights, no nothing. When it first happened, if you'd wait a minute, the dome lights would come on but try and crank it, everything would die. Checked all the fuses, all good. Looked over the battery cables and no obvious signs of shorts anywhere. When I did re-connect, I heard a click sound over by the alternator, which is new this year.
Having it towed to a shop that is pretty trustworthy. Owner said he could probably fix for under 100 bucks. Also told me that he could probably sell it for around 1200 bucks once we get it fixed. Crank sensor went out in August and left me stranded on the Interstate. I have about a 40 minute drive via interstate one way every day. Other than that, car has been perfect. Does need a front end alignment and balance all the way around. Also time for transmission fluid change. Headliner is falling, stereo sometimes works, driver window sort-of works, fuel guage doesn't work. Everything else is fine. Never been wrecked and garage kept. Had the car since she was born and have a lot of emotional ties with this car but now after all this, I am wondering if it's reliable. Have a 2 year old daughter that I pick up.
Anyway....wondering what's ya'll take on this situation. What would you do? We are planning on buying a new Accord. Was hoping to wait until March. Have a 2001 Ford Supercrew, that get's 14 mpg. Just wondering what the brethren here would do....I'm 50/50. If I can fix it and drive some more.....that's like money in my pocket but the reliablity factor also comes into play.
 
What engine does it have and what's the problem? Sounds like it could be something simple to me.
 
If you don't need the money from the sale of the Cutlass, it might be a good idea to get it fixed, keep it as a back-up, & then buy the new Honda.

That's my take on things.
 
Sounds like a voltage issue, dead battery, alt or starter. Definitely worth fixing if the car's mostly reliable.

There's LOTS of newer cars on the market giving people more grief then that.

Fix her up.
 
3.3 V6. New alternator and battery within a year.
It's got to either be a fusible link or short somewhere, but where do I start. Also has a new cranksensor and coil pack. Original starter. If it is the starter....wouldn't I at least have dome lights or idiot chimes coming on regardless? Been there, done that.
 
I'd say if you can get it fixed for less than a hundred do it! In all honesty you've probably got another 100k left on that engine at least. It may be a little noisy but it's a workhorse motor. Just keep an eye on that intake manifold...
 
quote:

Originally posted by kingrob:
I'd say if you can get it fixed for less than a hundred do it! In all honesty you've probably got another 100k left on that engine at least. It may be a little noisy but it's a workhorse motor. Just keep an eye on that intake manifold...

The 3300 is based on the 3800. The 3300 is not known for intake gasket problems. They didn't start until the plastic gaskets and DEXCOOL came out.

Take a pair of jumper cables and hook them to the battery and the respective places(ground and starter terminal) to rule out a bad battery cable. I've seen bad cables stump the best of mechanics.

-T
 
Bad ground. Almost always a bad ground. Look for ground attachments everywhere, clean them up, all over.

Those whacky Brits would proclaim it's likely a bad "earth" since that is what those whacky Brits use instead of us normal folks who call it a ground.

Then they call a hood a bonnet and a truck is a lorry and a whole bunch of udder words and things, yah' know.

Of course, there could be a broken component but I would look for bad ground(s) first.

Oh.... keep it. Run the conveyance until the steel-eating termites have shredded it into a pile of rust and itty bitty metal particles strewn across the landscape.

But, feel free to sell it. Used Yugos are really cheap. No idea what those whacky Brits call a Yugo... maybe a French.
 
lol.gif
Whatever happy pills you've been taking, obbop, you'd better send some my way!
 
If it won't crank and many systems are failing at once, I agree with obbop....Bad Ground.

Check all ground wires
- battery
- engine to battery
- engine to body

Ask your local shop what they are going to do for $100

Any car can run forever if you've got the time and patience to replace parts. Generally, we sell our cars because we're bored, or we've had one too many trips to the garage and we lose confidence in it. If you're using it for in-town short trips, I'd keep it, and in the mean time bank what the accord payments would be until you've got a bigger down payment.
 
Odds on those are the original battery cables and those cables have internal "cancer." Try using jumper cables to parallel existing cables from the battery one at a time. I bet it starts when you parallel the + one, if not it is likely a bad or corroded ground connection.
 
battery post leaks into the terminal.acid rots the copper.turns it to green powder.i have seen cables just crumble when moved.
 
I call battery cable too. Cleaned my connections several times, but didn't notice the cable was rusting inside. Replaced it, after replacing the battery, and car started up fine.
 
Some office friends are saying it's the starter. I disagree because I would still have some sort of power going to parts of the car. I mean, at least the dome lights, lights, horn, dash lights, etc. would work still, wouldn't they?
Funny you mentioned battery acid...about 8 months ago, the batter cracked and dripped acid down the battery cables. I flushed them with water and then checked. No open burns or anything, seemed almost as good as new.
 
Agree with Obbop, most likely ground. To be sure, get a multimeter and measure the resistance between battery cable terminal and chasis, headlight ground, etc. And resistance between positive and the fuse box, etc.

If all fail at once, got to be the common place. Either cables or grounding, very common on older cars. A voltmeter/multimeter can easily tell.

Regarding to buying an Accord, be aware that even Honda have some issues with the automatic transmission, especially the V6 5sp auto. I suggest you should look for a Camry if that is a concern to you if you want something similar. Or try a domestic that has reputation for reliability, the newer models aren't that bad.
 
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