Okay BITOG, time for synthetic?

[asme]

Hi everyone, I'm new to BITOG and I've just read the first sticky post. I wanted to probe the community's input on whether it's a good time or a good idea to start using synthetic oil (specifically Pennzoil Platinum 10W-30) in my car.

Let me explain. I have a 1993 Toyota Corolla station wagon with a 5spd manual that's about to pass its 180k mile mark. I'd like to keep the car as long as it will last, as I haven't found any other economy car that I enjoy driving on a daily basis as much as this one.

For its whole life the car has used regular "toyota genuine" (mobil) dino oil, changed faithfully every 5000 miles as per the manual's recommendation. As it neared 180k miles, some problems began to develop. It burned about a quart of oil every thousand miles and puffed blue smoke out of the exhaust every morning. For this reason I decided it was a good idea, at the time, to stick with the oil I was using. I didn't want synthetic to uncover any leaks or burn more rapidly.

Before it hit 180k miles, I wanted to take it to my mechanic so he could do some major services that were due. In addition to doing manual-specified maintenance, like installing a new timing belt and doing a valve adjustment, my mechanic tried to fix the oil-burning problem by replacing all of the oil seals, including the valve stem seals. In the end, the service was very extensive, and you can see the whole list of parts replaced at this link.

After I got the car back from my mechanic, it dawned on me that since I have had basically all of my seals and gaskets replaced, I can probably start using synthetic oil without worrying about any leaks appearing. My main reason for wanting to switch to synthetic would be to increase the life of the car and decrease engine wear. I don't really car about lengthening the oil change interval.

I'll go through the standard gamut of questions. My Corolla takes 5w-30 in the winter and 10w-30 in the summer. I live in sunny California and give it 10w-30 year-round. I often take my Corolla on many short trips throughout the week. Basically, I start it from a cold start, drive it 4-10 miles, and let it cool down again. I understand this type of driving wears engines down pretty heavily, so I follow the car's recommended "severe driving" maintenance schedule. I'm also very gentle with the gas and shift at low revs while I'm driving.

Given everything I've explained, do you think now is the time to make the switch to synthetic oil, given that I have all new seals, or should I stick with what's been good for the car for the last 20 years? All I want to do is enjoy the car that I've enjoyed driving daily for as long as possible. I'd appreciate any input and I thank you for your time.

asme

 

[Clevy]

Synthetic oil will not make the car or engine last longer,nor does it decrease wear,it lasts longer in service.
In extreme performance applications synthetics a synthetic is required however your application isn't high stress.
I use a syn in the winter because of our extreme cold temps but I wouldn't bother if -40 wasn't common here.
Oil is oil,synthetic isn't magic and isn't going to extend engine life,the oil lasts longer in service.

 

[maybehabitformin]

+1 keep doing what you been doing

 

[MrQuackers]

I think in some applications synthetic can be beneficial. I believe it is slowly cleaning the ring-packs on my SL2 and oil consumption is being lessened.

 

[skyship]

It won't make any difference if you use synthetic or not, what matters more is the quality of the oil in terms of additives in particular. Using a good quality OEM oil filter is also important.
If your engine is still smoking on occasions then you might have some carbon build up in the cylinders that would be worth getting rid of. Don't bother with fuel or oil additives, as you need to use a direct application cleaner or piston soak to remove deposits in the cylinders. Toyota might make their own cleaner like GM does.

 

[KrisZ]

Synthetic definitely will not perform any miracles.
Looking at your work order you have not addresses anything major besides timing belt change. Replacing all seals does nothing to oil burning problem.
You should've told them to do cylinder compression tests.

 

[Donald]

I agree synthetic will not do miracles, but PP is less than $10 more per oil change so not a big deal. It will clean things better, possibly the ring packs and provide better compression. Give SJ winters you do not need it to turn over faster in the winter. like in the northeast.

It allows you to easier schedule your oil changes. If you were doing them at 5K, then you can still do them at 5K, but if things get delayed its no big deal if it does not get done until 6K or 7K.

Does your car have the coil inside the dist? My 1994 Camry 4 cyl did and it failed leaving me needing a tow. If you have the same engine and dist then I suggest having it replaced before it fails and you need a tow. They seem to fail between 150K and 200K.

 

[LeakySeals]

Sure, try PP 10w30. If you pick up a leak or start consuming a lot of oil try Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30, 10w30 or 10w40. M1 HM is the only full syn I can run without costly gasket and seal repairs. Up here spending a lot of money on seals and gaskets makes no economical sense because the body only lasts +-15 years due to rust. In your location getting gaskets replaced and running a full syn is a good idea IMO. You could skip the seal and gasket repairs for years running M1 HM, maybe by then you will decide to buy another car, save the money for that expense instead. So you have 2 options. Spend the cash so the engine can run a full syn, or use M1 HM and skip the cash. Up to you.

 

[whip]

Unless you want to extend the oil change interval, there's no advantage to running synthetic oil in that car.

 

[tig1]

+1 keep doing what you been doing [/quot

+1. Nothing to gain now.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Sure, try PP 10w30. If you pick up a leak or start consuming a lot of oil try Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30, 10w30 or 10w40. M1 HM is the only full syn I can run without costly gasket and seal repairs. Up here spending a lot of money on seals and gaskets makes no economical sense because the body only lasts +-15 years due to rust. In your location getting gaskets replaced and running a full syn is a good idea IMO. You could skip the seal and gasket repairs for years running M1 HM, maybe by then you will decide to buy another car, save the money for that expense instead. So you have 2 options. Spend the cash so the engine can run a full syn, or use M1 HM and skip the cash. Up to you.



I thought he wrote that he replaced all the seals,and is asking if running a syn would be beneficial to possibly extend the life of the engine,which we know using either or won't extend anything but the oil change interval

 

[JohnathanDm]

he want's to run synthetic let him. but as advise you still have some other seal's that need to be addressed last thing you want is your rear main seal to leak.but if you still decided to go threw with it. try Castrol Ow30 GC it warm's up like 10w30 its a cult classic

impressed that the shop used toyota Red coolant. most people say you cant feel a diffrence when you switch from reg to synthetic but boy when i converted my tundra to it i felt it like night and day!

 

[Doog]

I would run Valvoline maxlife 10w30

 

[Danh]

Even though your car has been well maintained, after 180,000 miles it seems likely there is some crud lurking in engine nooks and crannies. In some cases this accumulated gunk is actually helping to prevent seal leaks. Introducing a great cleaning oil like Pennzoil Platinum at this stage could clean so well that leaky seals would be exposed, creating rather than solving a problem.

As others have pointed out, in your climate a synthetic oil isn't going to extend engine life compared to a conventional oil with a sensible OCI. If you really have the synthetic bug, maybe try Mobil1 High Mileage instead: it cleans well but also has seal conditioners as an insurance policy against leaks. On the other hand, what you're doing has worked well so I don't think there's a compelling reason to change.

 

[electrolover]

If it were mine I would swich to M1 high mileage 5 or 10/30. It will clean any deposits left behind and help slow any oil consumption, not to mention its a little thicker and will help make up the difference in worn bearings.
Make your first oci 3k and then go 5k after that for a few oil changes.

 

[KawasakiGuy]

+1 for continuing with current oil change. Switching to Synthetic now won't do anything to extend the life of the engine.

If it's worked for 180K miles, no reason it won't for another 180K

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Sure, try PP 10w30. If you pick up a leak or start consuming a lot of oil try Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30, 10w30 or 10w40. M1 HM is the only full syn I can run without costly gasket and seal repairs. Up here spending a lot of money on seals and gaskets makes no economical sense because the body only lasts +-15 years due to rust. In your location getting gaskets replaced and running a full syn is a good idea IMO. You could skip the seal and gasket repairs for years running M1 HM, maybe by then you will decide to buy another car, save the money for that expense instead. So you have 2 options. Spend the cash so the engine can run a full syn, or use M1 HM and skip the cash. Up to you.



I thought he wrote that he replaced all the seals,and is asking if running a syn would be beneficial to possibly extend the life of the engine,which we know using either or won't extend anything but the oil change interval

Yeah, I was bloviating (Talk at length, esp. in an inflated or empty way.)

 

[wtd]

My daily driver 92 Cavalier with the 2.2L 4cylinder just hit 180,800 miles today. I changed the oil when I got home from work using 5W-30 PYB.

I bought this car used in 2006 with 76,600 miles on it and have used a 5W-30 conventional oil in it since then. It hardly uses any oil between changes and I change every 5,000 miles. It also carries around 70-75 psi of oil pressure. I expect to get many more miles on the engine anyway. Auto Tranny is getting a little sluggish.

I would stay with a conventional oil in yours and keep the same intervel you have been using. I'm not a fan of Mobil oils and have had oil usage in every vehicle that I have run Mobil in. You might try a different brand. Pennzoil has worked great for me.

Wayne

 

[Kuato]

To answer OP's questions:

It certainly won't hurt to switch to synthetic, especially with the new seals. If you want to do it, go for it.

With multiple short trips, a synthetic might actually help with fuel dilution.

However using a synthetic for only 5k miles might be considered wasteful by some; with your history of excellent care a dino should carry you for awhile. BUT since you are driving less than 10k per year, you might be able to use a solid synthetic oil for a 1 year/10k interval, by doing some UOAs at 5k and extending.

 

[citationxeleven]

On my Mazda, I switched to PP and 2,000 miles into it the oil was down 1qt and pretty dark. Car never used oil at any time before. 2nd oil change it didn't drop at all and oil stayed clean the entire 5,000 miles it was in the engine. If you switch don't be too alarmed if consumption goes up. In my case it was only temporary.