OK to use engine oil as ATF replacement?
- Thread starter M1Accord
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Not ok at all. Transmissions and Engine are very different and require different lubrication and hydraulic properties. Use the proper fluids that were designed for it or you could risk damaging the unit. (Dads a mechanic and brother is a Mechanical Engineer with a specialization in Fluid Dynamics)
Forgot to mention... My owners manual for my transmission specifically states that my transmission requires a certain kind of fluid and that using any other fluid WILL cause damage to the clutch packs and that my warranty will be immediately void.
Forgot to mention... My owners manual for my transmission specifically states that my transmission requires a certain kind of fluid and that using any other fluid WILL cause damage to the clutch packs and that my warranty will be immediately void.
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JHZR2
Staff member
completely different fluids/adds/viscosity profiles. Please don't do it.
Originally Posted By: M1Accord
I dumped motor oil in it [...] What's the different between the 2 oils?
Do it first. Ask questions later?
I dumped motor oil in it [...] What's the different between the 2 oils?
Do it first. Ask questions later?
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: M1Accord
I dumped motor oil in it [...] What's the different between the 2 oils?
Do it first. Ask questions later?
Yikes!
Originally Posted By: M1Accord
I dumped motor oil in it [...] What's the different between the 2 oils?
Do it first. Ask questions later?
Yikes!
Only 1 quart though since I only brought 3 quarts, which is the amount required to for the normal drain and fill. However, I changed the filter and had to remove the pan and ended up a quart short. I only put 50 miles on it so far so I can always change it out tomorrow. I didn't read what is a full capacity but I figure it would be somewhere around 6 quarts. So 1/6 of different oil isn't the end of the world. I was going to flush the ATF by myself anyway instead of paying a shop to do a chemical/machine flush.
It is good to know they're different oil though.
It is good to know they're different oil though.
Now that you have dumped it in there the whole transmission is contaminated. I would take it to a shop and have the flush done with the machine to ensure that nothing but ATF is left in the transmission. When you change it yourself, you're only draining and refilling half the transmission, when a flush/fill is done at a shop they change all the oil. It's a more costly process, but far cheaper than replacing your transmission. Especially in a Honda, these transmissions can be very fussy. Pay now, or pay later!
I wouldn't drive the car with a quart of engine oil in the transmission, especially in DC traffic where transmissions tend to heat up. Park the car and do a cooler line flush with the proper ATF for your vehicle.
Do a regular drain and refill again in 100 miles to ensure all the engine oil is out.
Do a regular drain and refill again in 100 miles to ensure all the engine oil is out.
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Originally Posted By: StevieC
Now that you have dumped it in there the whole transmission is contaminated. I would take it to a shop and have the flush done with the machine to ensure that nothing but ATF is left in the transmission. When you change it yourself, you're only draining and refilling half the transmission, when a flush/fill is done at a shop they change all the oil. It's a more costly process, but far cheaper than replacing your transmission. Especially in a Honda, these transmissions can be very fussy. Pay now, or pay later!
This was done on my 92 Corolla. Once I drain and fill tomorrow, I would have less than 1/4 quart of engine oil in the transmission. If I do another drain and fill, the amount of engine oil would be next to nothing. But I don't think 1/4 of oil would hurt anything when there is about 6 quarts capacity in the transmission. We're talking about engine oil, not water or dishwasher detergent.
I never like the idea of having a shop flushing the transmission since I don't really know what method any particular shop use. Some shop use a power flush, which I think is not good. Some shop claims to continuously pump fresh ATF into the transmission until the fluid coming out is clean and that no old fluid is left. This method is ideal but it would cost them a lot of fresh fluid coming in and out of transmission. I would think a typical flush using this method would requires something close to 20 quarts for my Corolla. For that reason, I am suspicious if they actually carry out the process completely.
My personally method is to drain and refill, drive for 1000 miles, and drain and refill. It should replace 75% of the fluid. If I do that 3 times within 5000 miles, I can literally replace most of the fluid, which is basically the same as a flush.
Now that you have dumped it in there the whole transmission is contaminated. I would take it to a shop and have the flush done with the machine to ensure that nothing but ATF is left in the transmission. When you change it yourself, you're only draining and refilling half the transmission, when a flush/fill is done at a shop they change all the oil. It's a more costly process, but far cheaper than replacing your transmission. Especially in a Honda, these transmissions can be very fussy. Pay now, or pay later!
This was done on my 92 Corolla. Once I drain and fill tomorrow, I would have less than 1/4 quart of engine oil in the transmission. If I do another drain and fill, the amount of engine oil would be next to nothing. But I don't think 1/4 of oil would hurt anything when there is about 6 quarts capacity in the transmission. We're talking about engine oil, not water or dishwasher detergent.
I never like the idea of having a shop flushing the transmission since I don't really know what method any particular shop use. Some shop use a power flush, which I think is not good. Some shop claims to continuously pump fresh ATF into the transmission until the fluid coming out is clean and that no old fluid is left. This method is ideal but it would cost them a lot of fresh fluid coming in and out of transmission. I would think a typical flush using this method would requires something close to 20 quarts for my Corolla. For that reason, I am suspicious if they actually carry out the process completely.
My personally method is to drain and refill, drive for 1000 miles, and drain and refill. It should replace 75% of the fluid. If I do that 3 times within 5000 miles, I can literally replace most of the fluid, which is basically the same as a flush.
And you didn't ask before doing this... why?
I didn't plan on doing it. I had it on the lift at work to do the change. I brought the exact amount needed for the drain and fill. However, I didn't take into consideration that removing the pain to replace the filter would let out almost another quart of ATF. So I had 2 choices; put a quart of engine oil in or be a quart low.
That was 50 miles ago. I'll do another drain and fill tomorrow and that should displace the engine oil down to 1/2. 1/2 quart out of 6 quart capacity isn't too bad. I don't think engine oil is a doom juice for transmission. Sure the property of the two fluids is different but the basic principle is the same, it is to lubricate parts and prevent wear.
That was 50 miles ago. I'll do another drain and fill tomorrow and that should displace the engine oil down to 1/2. 1/2 quart out of 6 quart capacity isn't too bad. I don't think engine oil is a doom juice for transmission. Sure the property of the two fluids is different but the basic principle is the same, it is to lubricate parts and prevent wear.
just by draining one part and replacing one part, out of 6, you can keep repeating forever, but only the first 2 or three quarts will accomplish anything, because say, when you are at 50%, draining one quart drains 1/2 old 1/2 new. so only 1/2 is replaced, and you are
at 3.5:2.5 by the time it's at 4:2 draining one quarts drains 2/3 new, 1/3 old, and now you are going to use way too much ATF, I would say you're going to go through 20 quarts using your method to get to 90% fresh, and you'll still have 10% old. better to find a shop you can trust, or do it the proper way, that other people have described on this forum.
at 3.5:2.5 by the time it's at 4:2 draining one quarts drains 2/3 new, 1/3 old, and now you are going to use way too much ATF, I would say you're going to go through 20 quarts using your method to get to 90% fresh, and you'll still have 10% old. better to find a shop you can trust, or do it the proper way, that other people have described on this forum.
Originally Posted By: scoobie
just by draining one part and replacing one part, out of 6, you can keep repeating forever, but only the first 2 or three quarts will accomplish anything, because say, when you are at 50%, draining one quart drains 1/2 old 1/2 new. so only 1/2 is replaced, and you are
at 3.5:2.5 by the time it's at 4:2 draining one quarts drains 2/3 new, 1/3 old, and now you are going to use way too much ATF, I would say you're going to go through 20 quarts using your method to get to 90% fresh, and you'll still have 10% old. better to find a shop you can trust, or do it the proper way, that other people have described on this forum.
I am going to drain 3 quarts, which is the max without taking the pan off, and refill 3 quarts. There is 1 quart of engine oil in there, evenly mixed with 5 quarts of ATF. Tomorrow, it will be 1/2 quart of engine oil, evenly mixed with 5.5 quarts of ATF.
According to the article from Mobil 1, both fluid is similar with ATF having clutch friction modifier additive and meant for longer drain interval of closed system. I can live with .5 quart of engine oil that has no cluth friction modifier additive in my AT. If I do an additional drain, I'll be looking at 1/4 or less quart of engine oil for a 6 quarts capacity.
just by draining one part and replacing one part, out of 6, you can keep repeating forever, but only the first 2 or three quarts will accomplish anything, because say, when you are at 50%, draining one quart drains 1/2 old 1/2 new. so only 1/2 is replaced, and you are
at 3.5:2.5 by the time it's at 4:2 draining one quarts drains 2/3 new, 1/3 old, and now you are going to use way too much ATF, I would say you're going to go through 20 quarts using your method to get to 90% fresh, and you'll still have 10% old. better to find a shop you can trust, or do it the proper way, that other people have described on this forum.
I am going to drain 3 quarts, which is the max without taking the pan off, and refill 3 quarts. There is 1 quart of engine oil in there, evenly mixed with 5 quarts of ATF. Tomorrow, it will be 1/2 quart of engine oil, evenly mixed with 5.5 quarts of ATF.
According to the article from Mobil 1, both fluid is similar with ATF having clutch friction modifier additive and meant for longer drain interval of closed system. I can live with .5 quart of engine oil that has no cluth friction modifier additive in my AT. If I do an additional drain, I'll be looking at 1/4 or less quart of engine oil for a 6 quarts capacity.
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Does sound a little hard to believe... I'd have that thing towed in & thoroughly flushed, gotta be a lot cheaper than a tranny rebuild!!!
The OP is joking as nobody could be that
watch the language and implied language, please
watch the language and implied language, please
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