For clarity, by 5/6, I mean 5,000 miles or six months. With my insane amount of driving (between 30k and 40k a year), I never ever hit the time limit. . .
OK, is there concensus? Dino vs Syntehtic if doing short changes - less than 3K?
- Thread starter bradesp
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Did you have them pull off a head/valve cover for your before you bought? As much faith as I have in the 1MZ, I'd never buy one without doing that first. With the silly baffle that Toyota installs in that engine, you can't look through the filler to judge the cleanliness of the engine. In really bad cases, the sludge will start accumulating on the top of the baffle, but in many, it hides unseen below. This is one thing I really love about the VQ35 in my G35. You can open the oil filler and see not only the top of the head, but also part of the intake camshaft, and part of the actuation mechanism for at least one intake valve on Cyl #2. Of course after one year, 35k miles, and nothing but GC since break-in, all I see is bare silvery metal under the oil sheen (sometimes slightly greenish...).
I am sure Redline wouldn't sludge rapidly - but it really isn't a long OCI oil - but again this is for TBN depletion, not necessarily for sludge reasons. Any good synthetic oil will not sludge unless totally neglected way beyond what anyone posting on an oil related board would do.
I'm one of the real fans of Redline oil, but I think it is for driving really hard and maximum protection , especially once you modify engines for increased output.
I think you can buy any of the good dinos listed here and change at 3K, or any of the good synthetic blends of full synthetics and change at much longer intervals.
Auto-RX is a good idea also.
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